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Old 07-03-2006, 08:46 AM   #16
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Do you mean the idle screw or the bottom end? I'm a little confused by metering valve. If you mean the screw that moves the carb, then just adjust it untill the carb is barely open when the engine should be idling and wide open when its open throtle. As far as the top end and bottom end are concerned. I would leave the bottom end alone. For the top end I would turn it about one tick of the clock clockwise "leaner" then the factory settings. Heat the engine head up to around 200-215 and run a break in cycle. Temp the engine right before you turn it off. If it is below 180 then make it an hour leaner. If it above 225 then make it an hour richer. You realy don't need the aluminum foil. You are only running the car for 2 minutes or so the first few tanks so you should never realy get too cold, but it will be enough to tell you if the engine is too rich or too lean.
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:53 AM   #17
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Ok, my bad! I'm still trying to learn all of this stuff... What I was adjusting was the Mixture Control Screw, not the metering screw...

Any ideas on re-setting this?

Thanks!
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Old 07-03-2006, 09:33 AM   #18
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If not mistaken, the settings for both are flush with the body of the carb. Be careful with the one on the side of the black rubber boot as this is the low-end setting.

Check the OS website, they probably have a diagram for you if you dont have the instructions.
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Old 07-03-2006, 09:46 AM   #19
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which mixture screw? there is a high end, low end, and idle. the high end is the big one sticking out the top, the low end is on the end of the carb where the servo attatches, the idle should be on the side.
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Old 07-03-2006, 09:48 AM   #20
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Isn't the V-spec a three needle carb?, mid needle also!
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:15 AM   #21
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Thanks guys,

It's the screw (big one) on the side of the carb. The description is as follows:

The Mixture Control Screw:
For changing the mixture strength at mid
speed and acceleration. (Do not rotate the
screw more than one turn.)

I'm guessing I can just turn it clockwise until it's stop and then turn it counter clockwise on full turn?

Sorry for the newbie questions!
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:29 AM   #22
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Read your instruction manual for the engine. It should tell you a break in setting for the engine. Turn it all the way down, then back it out that many turns. Then turn it clockwise like one tick of the clock each time you run it untill it is running between 200-225.
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Old 07-03-2006, 03:12 PM   #23
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The V-Spec has a middle neddle or a mixture needle whatever you want to call it. You should not change this setting. Contact OS and find out the stock setting.
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Old 07-03-2006, 05:16 PM   #24
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your middle needle should be a half a turn in from flush.
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Old 07-03-2006, 05:25 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by party_wagon
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...gkg.0&MID=9876

Something like this. You don't need an expensive one, just something that will get the engine hot. Yes, It would be wise to heat the revo engine before you start it too.

This link has a break down on how to properly break in your engine with the new method that is better suited for the v-spec.

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.p...at+cycle+break

I would recomend heating up any engine before starting it. However, you may need to be careful not to melt the rubber on the wires of the traxxas ez-start on your jato.
Hi party well just want to tell you that the homedepot link doesn't take me to any heat gun just like some table and summer stuff
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:49 PM   #26
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Ran two tanks through today thanks to all the advice found here! Heating the engine to about 180F with a hair dryer made a world of difference. Only thing is, I keep expecting the heat to ignite fuel vapors!

This hobby is SO much fun! I even stopped swearing to myself I'd never by another nitro car again by the end of the day!
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