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Old 06-21-2006, 10:16 PM   #1
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Default IS the rc10 B3 still viable?

Hi, Im getting into the hobby again after letting my B3 lay around for like 5 years. Im wondering if its still good enough to race with the B4 and the BK2? What are your guys opinions on these 3 cars and how do they compare. Thanks.
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Old 06-21-2006, 10:36 PM   #2
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It will be fine for novice/intermediate, but once you get into the higher ranking classes, it may be best to get a newer model. Plus, I'm not sure if you can get B3 parts very easily unless they are the same as the B4.
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:30 PM   #3
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get the new xxx-cr or a used bk2, maybe even a b4, even though i am not a offroad AE person. I'm more of an offroad losi person. Get either the xxx-cr or the bk2, my friend has a b4, and when he drove my car, and my car just has a basic setup, he said "wow, now i want a xxx-cr or a bk2" he said it felt so much smoother and turns like nothing compared to his b4. and he races his b4. ive driven his b4, and preferably, i like the bk2 better. no offense to ae people. just like the Losis better.
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Old 06-22-2006, 01:19 AM   #4
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what is the difference between the CR and BK2...is the CR the standard version and the BK2 the upgraded version with all the goody parts?
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Old 06-22-2006, 02:13 AM   #5
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No it's the other way around, the CR is the hopped version of the Bk2, there is still much the same (I believe), go with the CR or B4 you won't go wrong with either of them, if you really want to go in competition then an B3 can't cut it, but it's still a really good car.

Greetz Florian
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Old 06-22-2006, 06:56 AM   #6
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If money is the biggest factor, good electronics, batteries, and a well equipped pit area in a b3 will carry you much further then a poorly equipped b4 or xxx-cr will. You more then likely will have a parts problem though. I am pretty sure that finding rims will be nearly impossible. Your best bet may be to find a used b4 or xxx-bk. If you run on a big wide open track then I would run the xxx-bk, it is more forgiving. If you run on a tight technical track then run the b4, it is more aggresive. You should be able to find good used rollers for around $80 that will need nothing but new arms and pivot blocks to be slop free.
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Old 06-22-2006, 08:59 AM   #7
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What's your budget?

It doesn't matter what you drive, it's the level of skill that matters. Is it a good car, sure. Pros were winning with it just a few years ago right?

Parts may be tough to find for your B3 though.

As said above, good electronics and good quality practice time will be better than a new car and junk electronics. However it is nice getting new toys

I had more fun driving my B4 than any other car ( 1/12 is fun too ) because it's such an easy car to drive, is fairly durable, and parts are cheap.
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Old 06-22-2006, 04:51 PM   #8
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B3 would be fine for local races. Lots of the guys around here run older generation cars with fresh tires, batteries, and motors (in stock). They are plenty competitive.

If you got it, run it.
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Old 06-23-2006, 04:40 PM   #9
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I alrady spent 600 bux on new radio, charger, some b3 parts, motor, batteries...tools,, etc etc so I will have to stick with it for a while. I guess the biggest thing is the parts problem. I hope I dont break them too many times and it shuld be ok
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Old 06-23-2006, 05:59 PM   #10
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It sounds like you made the right choice then. So often you will see newcomers show up with a $500 roller and $100 worth of support equipment and it just doesn't cut it. If you have not already made the investment I would advise in investing into a good balancer/discharger. Perhaps the new trinity dlp. This doesn't have to be an immediate investment, but it will help your packs to get through lots of seasons instead of just one. I'm sure you can find setups for the b3 at teamassociated.com too. I would run the buggy for this season, come next season if you still enjoy it then you could perhaps up and anti and run a new ride.
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Old 06-23-2006, 07:05 PM   #11
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Run what ya brung!!! As for parts you should be able to order any thru the hobbyshop or tower hobbies. They may not be hangin on the wall and stocked up but should be no problem getting them. Stock up on the parts that were known to commonly break. Extra diff gear and idler isn't a bad idea either.
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:04 PM   #12
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B3 PARTS ARE NOT HARD TO GET

even tho they do not produce new kits anymore, all the parts for it are highly in stock and any hobby shop can easily get parts. Heck i can go to my LHS and order parts for my old orignal rc10 buggy. Check www.towerhobbies.com they only carry cars and parts that arent discontinued and they have every part for the b3 listed....
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Old 06-24-2006, 02:32 AM   #13
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ye i know tower hobbies is pretty much where I get all my stuff from. The only thing is that it will be hard to get parts on the fly like if an arm breaks at the racetrack,.. the hobby store might not have it,..but I do think they have some of the main parts for the B3 so it should be ok..So far it was hard for me to get wheels, especially the white ones.


PS: will the DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Pulse Charger fit the balancer/discharger job? Anyway, it says that NiMH batteries should not be deep cycled so does that mean that they dont need a balancer/discharger?
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Old 06-24-2006, 07:31 AM   #14
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You should run them for your 5 or 6 minute heat and then put them on a balancer and then charge them. The balancer will make sure the cells are all equal before you charge them so that they can properly charge. You do not need to invest into one right away, however once you start to notice fade in your packs I would invest into something along the lines of the new trinity dlp. It should recondition your packs after several cycles and have them in tip top shape. I have been using the novak smart trey and trinity dyna pulse, basicly the same thing except it requires two things instead of just one. My packs which I used to use for practice have now become my race packs. In the past it was typical to run a set of packs for a season and need new ones. With the technology out today if the packs are properly treated they can be run for season after season. nimh packs should never drop below 5.2 volts or so.
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Old 06-25-2006, 04:41 PM   #15
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a guy at my home track runs his still, does very well with it!
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