OS V-Spec bearings questions and more
 

Hi guys,

I disassembled my V-Spec for the first time for an inspection last weekend and noticed the was some light rubbing on the backplate like it's been reported in many other posts. I have close to one gallon through it and according to many, that's when the back bearing start to fail.

The questions I have are:

-Should I change the back bearing right now as a preventive measure ?
-Is there a reason why the backplate show the light rubbing pattern and is there a know cure (backplate shim for instance)
-If I leave the original bearings and they fail, what will happen, is it going to break other parts (connecting rod, crankshaft) ?

As additionnal information, it's been said before that loose flywheels may be the cause for the backplate rubbing but mine is as tight as it can be. I would like some honest advise and while some may be tempted to suggest buying another engine or start a flamming war, I will keep this engine cause I just LOVE the way it drives.

Thanks

the backplate rubbing is a common thing for most engines not just the v-spec, i had my flywheel come loose also & after i pulled my back plate off their was slight rubbing, if it had gouges out of the backplate then i would of course change the bearing cause of the metal fragments possibly getting into the bearing. the rear bearing issue has to the best of my knowledge been fixed OS changed the bearing supplier.

weather or not you change the bearing is up to you. i have one that has had about 6 litres through it & still no sign of it letting go.

i do semi pull engine down after each race meeting & at this stage i'm very pleased with it's condition.

I took apart my V-spec after on gallon through it and I noticed all the things that you saw in yours. As a preventive cause if ordered the ceramic Boca Bearing from www.bocabearing.com and they go for about 48.00 or 50.00. It is a kit of both bearings front and rear. I raced my car last week and to me the engine performed great. If this is of any help I would replaced the factory bearings for the ceramic boca bearings just so you can have peace of mind knowig that you have the best set of bearings in your V-spec. :)

To add...

The scuffing on the backplate is normal as others have said.

OS has updated the bearings, but nobody I know of has recieved the updated version despite buying their engines recently. I believe if the serial # is 17000 (DON'T HOLD ME TO THIS) or higher it is updated. They may not even be in distribution channels yet.

If I were to buy new bearings, I would be buying TKO Cometition Development brand bearings. These are the bearings that come in the modded V-Specs from JP and EB Mods. They cost about the same as Bocas, but are a bit more trusted by most.

http://www.tkocompetitiondev.com/shop/

FWIW.... I've got almost 5 gallons on my Spec (and stock bearings), with NO issues at all. Even the included glow plug lasted more than 3 gallons.

Now I'm not saying nobody has had bearing problems, but I think the frequency of this issue is blown way out of proportion due to the internet. I race at MANY tracks on the East Coast and I've never met someone in person who has had these bearing problems. Everybody I've ever talked to that runs a V-spec says the same thing: "I've never had any problems, but I've seen that some guys on sgrid have had problems."

One thing you can do is remove the piston,sleeve and crank, then flush the oil from the bearings completely. Put the crank back in and slowly spin it in the case with it up next to your ear (somewhere quiet), You should be able to hear if there are flat spots or any grittiness to the bearings.

Hey Bodido what king of plug are you racing?? p3,p6 or p7? :D

thanks Norman

most likely a p3...the hottest one.

Yep....

P3. I've no real reason to try anything else, since I've ran the engine in widely varying atmospheric conditions, and have never had any issues tuning it in for great power and mileage. I do keep a P6 and Odonnell 99T in my box, but I doubt I'll ever use them.

Another thing... I did add the included extra head shim since I run 30% fuel. Just to have some safety margin in tuning and to make sure there is no detonation. I would recommend doing that if you run 30%. Having too much head clearance usually softens the bottom end power, but with the V-Spec, that is not gonna be a problem, I promise.

Where exactly is the serial number? I just picked up a V-Spec last week and it's got a large number / bar code I assume is the serial. The ending digits are around 17700 or so, I'll assume that has the "revised" bearings ... ?

The back plate on it is really deep, I heard they were making that change too. Definitely going to add the extra shim in for 30% nitro, out of the box it's not meant for more that 25%. That could be half the problem with rear bearings failing.

aaronb73

Sounds like you're good to go. It should be on a white decal with barcode on the outside of the box.

BTW...

If this is your first V-Spec, don't be too surprised if your needles are CRAZY rich out of the box.

The serial number I read on S-Grid for the cutover to the new bearings was #17780, if I remember right. I know it wasn't exactly #17000 in any case.

Awesome, I'll check it again after work...

I have ran about 5+ galleons threw my V spec and for some odd reason. I am burning out 1 P3/ P7 glow plugs every race day. I can not quite get it tuned right.
The backplate is sealed.
What am I doing wrong?

kyracer.....

What do the plugs look like?

Do they look wet and shiny?

Gray and dry looking?

Is the head button or top of piston pitted?

Also...

If you remove the backplate, is there a lot of slop in the lower rod end and crankpin?

How's the compression on the engine feel (when warm)?

The engine is acting like it is fat on the bottom end.

I checked the piston and it is really dry and black (it looked like I was running lean). The temp. never really got above 250. The glow plug is also dark grey. No pits from what i can see in the piston head.