It Doesn't Add Up !!!!

You're on Page 1 of 2
Go to
  • How can the XXX-T rtr 2 be better or preffered over the evader pro.

    Type: 2WD Stadium Truck Scale: 1/10
    Chassis: molded composite
    Suspension: independent
    Drive Train: transmission with ball diff & slipper clutch
    Tire Type: rubber, off-road type
    Motor or Engine: Trinity 19T
    Speed Control: Losi Sport ESC by Novak
    Radio: JR XR2i
    Servos: Z-590 Steering Servo
    (It has no graphite parts and no metal parts that I know of)

    1. Havok Modified Motor
    The 15-turn, double wound modifed Havok motor is faster than stock, and features ball bearings.
    2. IntelliSpeedTM 12T Reversible ESC
    And efficient, high-frequency electronic speed control with easy push-button set up of reverse and ABS braking (with lockouts for both), plus programmable traction control.
    3. Pro-LineTM Bowtie Rear Tires
    With foam inserts installed and glued.
    4. Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshafts
    Precision-machined to reduce skips and to minimize friction and backlash, for more power at any angle.
    5. Rapid-TuneTM Oil Shocks w/Hard Anodized Shock Bodies
    A simple turn of the collar makes these tough aluminum coil-over shocks a snap to fine-tune.
    6.Steel Turnbuckles
    Made of durable steel, and easily adjustable.7. Pro-LineTM Edge Front Tires
    With foam inserts installed and glued.8. Graphite Racing Parts
    The chassis, suspension arms, shock towers, rear hubs and hub carriers, braces and more are all made of a rigid, lightweight graphite composite.
    9. Hard-Anodized Aluminum Parts
    Including the rear chassis plate, front hinge pin, motor plate and shock bodies.
    10. Adjustable Slipper Clutch
    Keeps wheel spin under control and hard-anodized for toughness.
    11. Rear Toe-In/Anti-Squat
    Allows for fine-tuning of toe-in and anti-squat angles of the rear suspension from 0 to 3 degrees.12. Adjustable Ball Differential
    For precise control of power delivery when adjusting for differnet track conditions.
    13. Complete Ball Bearings
    To fight friction and increase top speeds.

    (Notice all the graphite and alumiunium parts that the XXX-T doesnt have)
  • becuase the xxx-t has race proven suspension gemerty, transmission.

    it does have 'metal' shocks,

    it has pre-glued Losi tires front and rear

    it has a slipper clutch....

    without going down your list of the Evader options and matching them with their equivilant on the xxx-t, it has most of what you would need.

    what is wrong with plastic parts over graphite? unless you want so be super efficient on weight. I choose to run a few plastic parts on my race cars
  • wat bout the aluminium parts such as skid plate and motor plate.
  • motor plate, as in the bit the motor gets 'bolted to' that is metal/alu not exactlly sure.

    why would you need alu skid plate...

    it really depends what you want from you truck.

    if you want lots of alu and 'drop off a building' durability then the evader might be the one.

    but the xxx-t RTR you can take out of the box and have a reasonable car to go racing with.
  • It's all in the design. Look at it this way:
    Compare a Huyundai Sonata (or whatever their best sedan is) to a base model BMW like a 318. If you run down the options list and compare features the two cars will look the same-leather seats, CD changer, climate control, similar size engines, sunroof, etc. But if you drive both cars to side by side you will find that something didn't make it on to that spec sheet . The BMW clearly drives differently and has a better quality feel.

    Same is true of the Duratrax vs. Losi XXX. It should also be noted that the Duratrax is a very close copy of a Losi XX, the XXX's predecesor.
  • Quote: it does have 'metal' shocks,
    Both have aluminum shocks, the Evader Pro is threaded.

    it has pre-glued Losi tires front and rear
    Evader Pro has Pro-Line

    it has a slipper clutch....
    They both have slippers and ball diffs.

    why would you need alu skid plate...
    If you ever raced a XX-T you'd remember why.

    Both are good, but for racing the XXX-T is better. It's newer in design, easier to find parts locally for.
  • Aluminum suspension and chassis parts are generally a bad idea. Good for the "bling" factor, that's about it.

    Aluminum bends, plastic flexes and comes back. That is, until it breaks. I'd rather break a plastic piece, than bend an aluminum one and not know it, other than the car handles funny for some unknown reason.

    Aluminum weighs nearly 3 times what plastic does.

    There is a place for aluminum, motor mounts and other high stress areas, etc. Just because it's aluminum, doesn't automatically make it better. My original RC10 with the aluminum tub drove me crazy cause it would bend and tweak pretty easy.

    The losi motor is probably better even though its a 19t......the super cheap motors are junk. If you can buy it new for less than $25 at a hobby shop, forget it.

    Losi tires are good, Pro lines are good. The losi foams may be a bit better than pro lines.
  • Duracrap
  • Try to maintain some sort of tact, please. If your post won't offer something to the current discussion, you might want to hit delete instead.
  • the evaders tend to be good cars for beginers but just don't hit stuff. I have seen several evaders with stock motors snap their chassis without doing anything to bad. i personally prefer the losi of the two of those because of the race proven suspention, transmision and just the general setup of it is alot easier to work on.

    the havok motor is a peice of junk that will not last very long anyways, while the xxx-t has a trinity 19t in my oppion trinity makes some of the most reliable motors.

    threaded shocks are more of a marketing tool for duratrash than anything else. look at 90% of nitro kits. they don't have treaded shocks. that's because with the normall preload clips you put 3 on this side and 3 on the other and they are the same. on threaded type you have to either guess which doesn't work well for racing or use a micromiter to make them the same height.

    one more thing the losi has #'s 4,6, and 10-13 of the evader's list as standerd options which should be so common on kits they don't feel the need to advertise them. duratrash does it because when you are new more words and more catchy names like rapid-tune the better the car sounds and duratrash knows this because they sell their kits to mostly entry level hobbiests and see no need to improve their product and farther than losi took it 8 years ago because they know how to market to new customers.
  • Just, IMHO, I'd choose plastic parts over graphite and aluminium any day of the week. The Plastic flexes and rebounds but the aluminium takes a hit and flexes. You then have to pull it apart and bend it back into shape, fatiguing the metal to buggery, whilst if you get grpahite the amount of flex can be summed up in 3 letters S.F.A. (Sweet F**K All, for those unfamiliar with the term).

    I'm running a duratrax evader chassis, and frankly, I'm bloody happy I only paid $80 for it. When I can be bothered, I expect I'll buy a XXX-T or a RC10T4 simply becuase the parts are so much easier to get. (At the moment I put in an order and wait 2 weeks for parts... Most of it is either held together with, or reinforced with, cable ties).

    I honestly can't wait... Assuming i don't go drinking hard for the next month, I'll get one then.

    EDIT: Havok motors are horrendous. Bushed mod motors... I demolished one in my buggy in 5 runs. Just plain poor. The Rush motors aren't too bad tho. At least they're rebuildable and ball raced, for cheap.
    Then again, you could just stop the arsing about and just go brushless.

  • Losi guys who've driven a XX-T help...the good part about a rear chassis piece being aluminum is that it stops the old XX-T tranny snapping issue. While I see people saying aluminum is bad in this and that. It's not an entire aluminum chassis.

    The Duratrax Evader is nearly a 100% rip off of the XX-T truck. Many of the Losi parts fit, and vice-versa.

    Myt3rocks: Most shocks are now Threaded in the nitro world, why because shock springs are not the same length, no 2 ever match. Using the pre-load collars makes it impossible to truely set the right to the left in the case of spring length issues. RTR's now those are cheaper and cheap molded pre-load clips and none threaded shock bodies are a good way to cut costs.
  • um... not really. i know in 1/10 the losi and the gt both have them on the pro kits, but i was accually talking about 1/8 scale buggy. most of them don't even have an option for threaded shocks. mugen: nope 777:sp2: nope hyper 8:nope jammin: nope. only a limited number of buggies have threaded shock and most of them are not very fast racers. the thundertiger has them. the mayhem has them but it come with the clips instead of the collars. and the ofna 9.5 violator has them. I trust when companys like mugen and kyosho don't have them that most people don't need them. and another thing while no 2 springs maybe the same length, it isn't going to change the handling that much if one is microscopically longer than the other. microtuning to that level is about as meaningful as nitroscent or ballencing wheels and tires to the 1/100 of a gram. most racers i know use the preload clips because they are easier to use and don't change and are always the same amount left and right.

    sorry bout the rant.
  • Threaded shocks in an offroader seem to be much of a muchness.
    I know exactly why you use threaded in an onroader, simply because it allows much higher levels of tuneability and fine-tuning, but in an offroader, I'm at a loss to understand why you'd need to adjust one shock by a mm or two, especially when the range of travel is so long.
  • My first truck was an evader. It would break every other time i hit the throttle. Now I have a MF2. Won the first race I had it out.