Pistol123

No experience of trucks but on buggies the trend has been raising the inner link height and lengthening them to calm things down and reduce camber gain.

Hopefully somebody with more experience will be along soon.

MrLean

iTrader: (15)

On ST my solution to traction roll has been ride height. I was never able to get under 20mm until I put the 13mm shocks on. Now I’m at 16mm with the body off.

Check out this thread for more truck questions:

Team Associated T6.2

LowDrag

iTrader: (1)

I'm on the fence about upgrading my turnbuckles to the nicer titanium ones. Do the stock ones get bent a lot? Some of the Ti ones still have the smaller diameter thread and some have a larger thread where you have to drill out the tierod end. Do the upgrades with the smaller threads still bend a lot. Do the stiffer turnbuckles just transfer more load and start breaking other stuff? What's the optimum turnbuckle option to run?

Burl Swift

iTrader: (6)

I raced my B6.4 carpet car every Tuesday night for about a year. I bent exactly ZERO stock turnbuckles in that time.

wockaf1

Hello,

I have just purchased and trying to build and RC10B6.4.
The part that looks like the connector from Bag #2 is plastic with holes in each end. They aren't ball cups, just a hole that doesn't look like it's big enough. Am I using the correct part to connect the front roll bar to the front arms in Bag #2 Step 7?

They aren't a ball cup and I can't seem to make them go into the balls and have damaged one trying to make it fit.
Any help on this would be appreciated.

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

The best thing to do is get some Ti 3.5mm turnbuckles, they are pretty popular now that AE made 3.5mm ballcups that dont stretch and put them on the B74.2.

I built my 6.4 months ago with yokomo ballcups because they dont slop out in 2 weeks like 3mm AE ballcups, but they are brittle and I've broken a few. I have tweaked/lightly bent turnbuckles as well but I run mod classes on very high grip surfaces. Overall they're very durable and you don't have to worry too much about it.

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

Probably, if you correctly follow the directions and you have spare parts they are not needed for the box stock setup. If you build a gear diff you'll also have 2 bearings left over that would go in a ball diff. You can always look a head and see how things go together. And if youre on a certain step, use exactly as the illustrations show. Close enough is not correct. The sway bar parts only fit the sway bar and ball cups only fit the proper ballstuds. Its very specific.

Pistol123

Sounds like you might have found the spacers to move the servo back , a photo might help.

wockaf1

Thank you for the responses.
I found a YouTube video that says the sway bar "ball links" are in Bag #9 and they were with all the other turnbuckles.

What happens now that the sway bar is connected is that the front arms don't droop below the chassis line (without shocks pushing them down which I haven't built as yet). Is this normal. I took it all apart again and don't see any binding.

alternatepoc

I managed to bend two in two days (one minor, one catastrophic). I'm not a great driver and the slight bend came from shooting off the track. The second was the result of a full-speed impact from the rear after I flipped over a jump. Still, they seemed less strong than the ones on my old TLR 22 3.0 SR. Since I needed to replace my B6.4 ones, I opted for the Factory Team titanium 3.5mm turnbuckles and the 3.5mm ball cups from the B74. Major upgrade in strength.

D1Rk

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone compare this to the 22 5.0 elite for clay? It seems like this car is better but everyone has quite the amount of upgrades. Is it any good in stock kit form?

Cinnabun

iTrader: (35)

I use 3.5mm Lunsford turnbuckles with b74.2 ball ends, and I have the FT +2 rear camber link mount to add strength in the rear. In the front I’d rather blow apart the stock top plate if I have a bad wreck.

Ostach24

iTrader: (102)

I went with the jconcepts turnbuckles and the b74.2 ball cups straight away. I did it for appearance purposes only, but if you don’t hit anything you won’t have to worry about it. If you do hit stuff the stock turnbuckles might bend and the ti ones might break.

Silverbullet555

iTrader: (13)

It's not stiffness. It's the ratio of strength to weight with some added appearance.

I prefer the 1up ones as their flat holds the wrench and tells you which way to turn it to make them shorter or longer. I've bent one and they warrantied it.

Lunsford was awesome when they were around, Probably the strongest of them all.

ChocoTaco73

iTrader: (3)

It can depend on the track, keep in mind this is between a box stock 6.4d and a pretty well decked out 22 5.0 with the same setup for both on both tracks. On a medium grip track (Hobby Action in Chandler, Az) while my 22 was very nimble I had to be careful not to drive it too hard as it didn't feel as planted as I like. The B6.4 was very forgiving though a bit pushy but after a couple of packs I was about a second faster a lap than my 22 and on par with the faster 17.5 guys at the track. At a sealed clay track (Coyote Hobbies in Victorville, Ca, gobs of traction) the B6.4 was extremely pushy and very hard to rotate, not fun lol My 22 was amazing, almost telepathic lol Now, the next time I went to Coyote I changed the the shocks, springs and caster settings from a Matty G setup sheet for SDRC and that helped quite a bit though the B6.4 still pushed a decent amount on power. More setup work to do but since I have no local track and the closest (Coyote) is 3 hours away, I can't test setup changes as much as I'd like.