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Team Associated B6.4 and B6.4d

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Team Associated B6.4 and B6.4d

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Old 04-20-2022, 06:36 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.4 and B6.4d
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B6.3 / B6.3D and B6.4 / B6.4D Helpful Posts

B6.4 and B6.4D specific parts release list.
https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...Parts-List.pdf

Team Associated 1/10th Shock Length Quick Reference Chart
https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=955

How to measure Shock Shafts
https://www.rctech.net/forum/showpos...&postcount=956

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): What is the difference between 2 gears and 4 gears in the gear diff?
Please read these posts by Roger M. Maybe this has been answered but what are the little orings in diff do for tuning?
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M.

The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths

Kit +2 axles

73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts
75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts

Option 0 axles

73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts
75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts

Why would you want to change the driveshaft length?
It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle).
The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car.
Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement.

When would you want to change this?

Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas.
To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit.

On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks.
The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...)

What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms.
Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!)

The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners.

Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections.

Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall.

So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is.




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Old 05-13-2022, 05:30 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by Burl Swift View Post
Iím looking to purchase some ceramic bearings, if I order a set for the 6.3, will they work for the 6.4? Have any of the sizes or totals changed?
all that is the same.
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Old 05-13-2022, 05:46 AM
  #167  
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Got halfway through my build.. musta been a Friday afternoon kit!! Ha.. missing some items. I was missing 2 shock xrings, 2 ballstud washers, (not a big deal, I had extra). The bag with the mud guards had the wrong screws. (Again, not a big deal, I eventually found some). And my shock oil had leaked but the bag it was in was sealed. The manual only has construction directions for the laydown. The layback is in another bag and doesnt show in the manual. Might be confusing for someone that doesn't know AE or first build...
All issues not a big deal for me personally, as I Iive 10 minutes from my track and can get parts. But might be a pain for someone else.
Other than a few things, Im quite happy with the build. A few mistakes in a first run has to be considered...
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Old 05-13-2022, 07:28 AM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by Silverbullet555 View Post
all that is the same.
Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2022, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Funkydrummer1 View Post
Got halfway through my build.. musta been a Friday afternoon kit!! Ha.. missing some items. I was missing 2 shock xrings, 2 ballstud washers, (not a big deal, I had extra). The bag with the mud guards had the wrong screws. (Again, not a big deal, I eventually found some). And my shock oil had leaked but the bag it was in was sealed. The manual only has construction directions for the laydown. The layback is in another bag and doesnt show in the manual. Might be confusing for someone that doesn't know AE or first build...
All issues not a big deal for me personally, as I Iive 10 minutes from my track and can get parts. But might be a pain for someone else.
Other than a few things, Im quite happy with the build. A few mistakes in a first run has to be considered...
email AE, they are very responsive have shipped parts to me twice. Pickup at track for immediate fix and you have some spares.
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Old 05-13-2022, 09:21 PM
  #170  
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Got back into the hobby about 6 weeks ago after a 15 year hiatus. Picked up a 74.1 and now I have a 6.4 sitting on the work bench waiting to be built. Thisíll be my first time running 2wd. Heck, the 74.1 was my first time running off-road.

Can anyone here offer some insight on jc ellipse golds? The go to at my local track is ellipse silvers or aka cross link/chain link/scribble purple, all shaved down of course.

The reason Iím asking about golds is that they seem to be much easier to get comparatively. I definitely didnít miss the tire game lol.
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Old 05-13-2022, 09:31 PM
  #171  
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I guess I should also include that it is hard packed clay, high grip.
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Old 05-14-2022, 05:36 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Pocket_Fred View Post
I guess I should also include that it is hard packed clay, high grip.
Have you tried Prolineís MC compound? You can even buy them already slicked out (bald eagles)
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Old 05-14-2022, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by b.j.a View Post
Have you tried Prolineís MC compound? You can even buy them already slicked out (bald eagles)

On the 74.1 yes I have. Couldnít get them to work nearly as well as I could get the slicked AKAs to work. I havenít tried the S3 bald eagles yet. Which I believe are a little softer than the clay company.
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Old 05-15-2022, 01:28 PM
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The Kickup/Steering section in the manual says "low position" and "high position" with the hat side on top for both? If I do the hat side on top with a 2.5 bulkhead and 0 castor insert I would be at 25 total?
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Old 05-15-2022, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bangit99 View Post
The Kickup/Steering section in the manual says "low position" and "high position" with the hat side on top for both?
My thought it is the steering rack can be high or low. If you want it low, you run the steering hat bushing on the top, close to the head of the screw. If you want the steering rack to be high you run the steering rack bushing on the bottom.

Originally Posted by bangit99 View Post
If I do the hat side on top with a 2.5 bulkhead and 0 castor insert I would be at 25 total?
Yes, chassis kickup +/- bulkhead #, +/- the caster insert. The hat has nothing to do with caster but rather where you should run the rack, up or down.
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Old 05-15-2022, 08:04 PM
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Putting the bushing hat on the bottom causes the bell cranks to rub on the top plate.
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Old 05-15-2022, 09:28 PM
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Just finished my second practice session at my local indoor with my new 6.4d. Fun kit, my first build. Built to kit specifications in the assembly manual. Any must have changes or recommendations from the 6.3 guys to make? 21.5t motor for now
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Old 05-15-2022, 10:04 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by dillydallen View Post
Just finished my second practice session at my local indoor with my new 6.4d. Fun kit, my first build. Built to kit specifications in the assembly manual. Any must have changes or recommendations from the 6.3 guys to make? 21.5t motor for now
As always, machined shock spacers. Also, I've heard of some issues with this batch of x-rings.

Other than that, you might need a weighted bulkhead.

Drive, drive, drive.
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Old 05-16-2022, 09:54 AM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by Silverbullet555 View Post
As always, machined shock spacers. Also, I've heard of some issues with this batch of x-rings.

Other than that, you might need a weighted bulkhead.

Drive, drive, drive.
havenít seen machined spacers for the 13mm shocks
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Old 05-16-2022, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeyscott View Post
havenít seen machined spacers for the 13mm shocks
pretty sure the shafts and the bottom area the spacers sit in is unchanged.
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