Silverbullet555

iTrader: (10)

all that is the same.

Funkydrummer1

iTrader: (7)

Got halfway through my build.. musta been a Friday afternoon kit!! Ha.. missing some items. I was missing 2 shock xrings, 2 ballstud washers, (not a big deal, I had extra). The bag with the mud guards had the wrong screws. (Again, not a big deal, I eventually found some). And my shock oil had leaked but the bag it was in was sealed. The manual only has construction directions for the laydown. The layback is in another bag and doesnt show in the manual. Might be confusing for someone that doesn't know AE or first build...
All issues not a big deal for me personally, as I Iive 10 minutes from my track and can get parts. But might be a pain for someone else.
Other than a few things, Im quite happy with the build. A few mistakes in a first run has to be considered...

Burl Swift

iTrader: (5)

Thanks!

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

email AE, they are very responsive have shipped parts to me twice. Pickup at track for immediate fix and you have some spares.

Pocket_Fred

Got back into the hobby about 6 weeks ago after a 15 year hiatus. Picked up a 74.1 and now I have a 6.4 sitting on the work bench waiting to be built. This’ll be my first time running 2wd. Heck, the 74.1 was my first time running off-road.

Can anyone here offer some insight on jc ellipse golds? The go to at my local track is ellipse silvers or aka cross link/chain link/scribble purple, all shaved down of course.

The reason I’m asking about golds is that they seem to be much easier to get comparatively. I definitely didn’t miss the tire game lol.

Pocket_Fred

I guess I should also include that it is hard packed clay, high grip.

b.j.a

Have you tried Proline’s MC compound? You can even buy them already slicked out (bald eagles)

Pocket_Fred

On the 74.1 yes I have. Couldn’t get them to work nearly as well as I could get the slicked AKAs to work. I haven’t tried the S3 bald eagles yet. Which I believe are a little softer than the clay company.

bangit99

The Kickup/Steering section in the manual says "low position" and "high position" with the hat side on top for both? If I do the hat side on top with a 2.5 bulkhead and 0 castor insert I would be at 25 total?

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

My thought it is the steering rack can be high or low. If you want it low, you run the steering hat bushing on the top, close to the head of the screw. If you want the steering rack to be high you run the steering rack bushing on the bottom.

Yes, chassis kickup +/- bulkhead #, +/- the caster insert. The hat has nothing to do with caster but rather where you should run the rack, up or down.

bangit99

Putting the bushing hat on the bottom causes the bell cranks to rub on the top plate.

dillydallen

Just finished my second practice session at my local indoor with my new 6.4d. Fun kit, my first build. Built to kit specifications in the assembly manual. Any must have changes or recommendations from the 6.3 guys to make? 21.5t motor for now

Silverbullet555

iTrader: (10)

As always, machined shock spacers. Also, I've heard of some issues with this batch of x-rings.

Other than that, you might need a weighted bulkhead.

Drive, drive, drive.

mikeyscott

haven’t seen machined spacers for the 13mm shocks

psycho02

iTrader: (12)

pretty sure the shafts and the bottom area the spacers sit in is unchanged.