platgof

iTrader: (4)

This is horrible. I had a SCT that did this and was undrivable, had to get rid of it. I hope there is a simple solution to this problem. I have not even raced mine yet.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

What battery pack are you running? I am now thinking of running the shorty 4s all the way back if this is an issue. Maybe a regular 4 s will be the only way to fix this with more weight in the rear to balance it out. You sure raised one hell of a red flag. How come this never came up before??

platgof

iTrader: (4)

If you are letting off the throttle and digging into the jump, of course it will do this, most cars do squat when letting off the throttle. the other cars you mentioned may have more roll on when letting off the throttle and do not dig in. Learn to change your driving style or add more roll on when letting off the throttle. I must admit the motor is very far forward on this design, and may be the fault here. Is anyone else having this problem?

jamsandolina

iTrader: (4)

Hello. Is the 1900kv motor still the "go to" motor for E buggy? I will be racing on a large low/med grip hard packed track. Should I still go with the 1900kv or something like a 2200kv motor? Thanks for the advice

MX304

iTrader: (21)

1900 is still what the majority of people run.

jamsandolina

iTrader: (4)

I was looking at the motor mount and didn't see any type of rubber padding or anything on the inside of the motor mounts. Is the mount a one size fits all thing. How does the mount compensate for the slight differences in motor diameters? Will I have any issues using the 4268 hobbywing g3 motor? How does the mount keep the motor from rotating in the mount? Thanks

jamsandolina

iTrader: (4)

Are 5000mah shorties enough for this buggy or is a larger mah battery needed. I will be running 7 minute qualifiers and 10 minute mains. What about the bullet size...is 4mm bullets enough or is 5mm bullets needed?Thanks

kahuna2793

Everyone i see runs 5mm bullets. What size track ? Small indoor track and a light trigger finger maybe 5000mah. We run outdoor large track and i can get 10 mins out 6000mah. I see some racers run out of battery with 7500mah on 10 min main it comes down to smooth trigger finger.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

I picked up some 11 gauge wire from TQ Wire and used it for battery to esc and esc to motor. The motor runs much cooler with this set up.

jamsandolina

iTrader: (4)

I thought I read somewhere that there was a wheel fitment issue with front wheels. I can't remember where I read it to confirm it but the writer says that multiple wheel brands rub were the turnbuckle is attached. Can anyone confirm whether this is true or not? I like to run sweep wheels and tires. That is one of the supposed wheel brands that rubs. Thanks

platgof

iTrader: (4)

I heard this as well on this post about AKA wheels.

jbtamu1011

I had AKA wheels rub the rear hub, not the front. AE and Avid wheels work just fine.

kdub

Need some more details on the setup, shocks, etc... typically if you are on bladder shocks you need to drill out the rear holes larger otherwise they pack out too much and drive the front end down instead of absorbing everything evenly.. also same for the rear axle height you can go hubs down, link down on the tower and C and D pills 1-down.. this would be softer in the rear. Lastly you can add kickup, typically raise the A-up and B middle. Or B-down A middle for more steering. Either that or shorten the front link middle-out on the tower pills and that will keep the front end up more when you hit an obstacle. Hope this helps.


Kurt

jbtamu1011

I guess no one keeps spare parts on hand...

I did get it all built and raced it this past weekend for the first time. Man, it drives amazing. I think I'm better with it than I was with my Kyosho MP10e. Both are saddle pack configurations, but the AE I think better suits me. Pillow balls vs. C-hubs.

Ninetyeight740

iTrader: (4)

Got my kit yesterday and got it about 1/2 built last night. Need to order all the electronics next