Fallguy44

iTrader: (2)

I don't have enough posts to add a picture. There are 2 shock rod end options. 0mm and +2mm. Tried researching which one to use without luck. This will on dirt/clay. Pros and cons of using either?

BigBuckORamma

Are you following the instruction manual?

Always check your part numbers, and follow the recommended kit spec build.

If you look at Page 13 of the manual, step C2. You will see there are multiple notes next to the rod end options that say "0mm". It says it next to the part selection in the upper right hand corner under the diagram of the shock end. In the lower left corner in the exploded view of the shocks, it says "0mm" with two lines pointing to the chock ends on the front and rear shock diagram.

The kit spec is 0mm, the +2mm is a tuning option. What you would actually tune with it, outside of ride height? I have no idea.

Just follow the manual, stick to the kit build. Run the car in kit stock form, and then worry about tuning options once you have run a good 10-20 packs through the car.

TurnNBurn

As mentioned by the poster above, the ones to use are specified in the manual - the manual builds the kit to the base setup, which is intended for Dirt/Clay.

What you are basically controlling with the eyelets (and corresponding 0/+2 shock towers) is a quicker, alternative way of adjusting the overall arm travel without having to mess with changing internal shims in the shock itself. With the shock travel the same, the +2 towers will bias travel a little higher, while losing 2mm of downward travel (resulting in less droop/downward arm travel). On the flip side, if you are looking for a little more down travel, you can bias that travel downward a little by using the +2 eyelets, resulting in 2mm more droop/downward arm travel.

There are a variety of reasons why you would want to manage the travel range and/or droop, but one scenario I can think of is a track with a rough whoops section. Going from a 0 to +2 shock tower (or a +2 to 0 eyelet) or vice versa will help you tame the buggy in that section without messing with limiting via the shocks - additionally, you can adjust the thread of the eyelet for finer tuning, but these adjustments give you a quick “big swing” without opening the shocks.

Speaking of the above, It’s been a while since I’ve had to deal with a good whoops section, so I forget if it’s more or less droop that helps smooth the buggy out, lol.

Fallguy44

iTrader: (2)

Thanks all. Yes following instructions. It came with and had the +2 as an option. Just wondering if there was an advantage/disadvantage using them. I built them with the 0mm. This is the first kit of built since the 90's. Lol

rk_619

Using the +2 shock ends gives you the option of adding 2mm of droop. Droop measures how far down the car’s suspension arms are able to travel, or specifically the difference between the car’s natural ride height and its maximum ride height when the wheels just lose contact with the ground. On some setup sheets, it is measured as the distance between the center of the shock’s two mounting screws.

Droop is usually changed via internal shock limiters or on some cars via specific droop/downtravel/downstop limiters.

Droop allows or limits the weight transfer from one side of the car to the other.

Less droop

• Faster steering response
• Fewer traction rolls
• Generally suitable for smooth tracks

More droop

• Slower steering response
• Better handling over bumps
• Better jump landings

Less front droop

• Less weight transfer to the rear during acceleration
• Less on-power steering
• More high-speed steering stability

More front droop

• More weight transfer to the rear during acceleration
• More on-power steering
• Less high-speed steering stability

Less rear droop

• Less weight transfer to front during braking
• Less stability over bumps
• More stability under braking

More rear droop

• More weight transfer to front during braking
• Better handling over bumps
• Less stability under braking

Stroke measures the distance between full compression of the shock and full extension. Stroke can be changed via internal limiters (downtravel) or external limiters (uptravel.)

Changes to the car’s ride height will also change its droop if no other adjustments are made.

artwork

iTrader: (88)

If you are using the +2 stock shock towers it is suggested to run the optional (in the other bags in the kit) +2 shock ends. This works best for most clay tracks. More droop typically makes the car easier to drive as it won't unload the wheels as easily and full extension.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Fyi: ***LOOK FOR A THREAD ON YOUR VEHICLE BEFORE POSTING NEW THREADS!!!***

Here is the existing thread: TLR 22 5.0