Basher Recommendations
#1
Basher Recommendations
I have been out of the R/C world for about 20 years now, but my 7 y/o daughter has expressed and shown interest, so I picked her up a cheap car to cruise around on the driveway/street. She is loving it and I figured I could pick something up to play with her and possibly let her work up to using. 20 years ago I would walk in to KB Toys or Toys R Us and buy whatever I could afford that looked cool. I eventually got in to nitro, but I don't have the time or patience for that anymore, lol.
We have some decent berms in our backyard (.5 acres) that I would like to play on and just overall have fun. I am really not looking to tinker, just use - have fun - and replace parts as necessary. I have looked and looked, but unfortunately the more I look the more options become available! I used to run Traxxas, so that was the first place I looked, but then came across Arrma, Redcat, among others. I have no problem purchasing a well taken care of used vehicle to get the most value, but don't have a problem with buying new either. My budget for this project is $400 all in, including all electronics and batteries (I have already have a Supermate DC6 charger).
I came across a Arrma Kraton 6s V4 locally with a few upgrades, but it looks like it has lived a pretty rough life. It is under budget ($375) and comes with the following:
Arrma Kraton 6s with STX radio
-6s 4500mah lipo Zippy Brand
-4s 5000mah lipo Turnigy Brand
- Voltage Hobbies aluminum servo mount
-Voltage Hobbies aluminum front chassis brace
-Voltage Hobbies aluminum rear chassis brace
-all manuals, tools and original box included.
Additionally, there is a new Redcat Volcano EPX Pro Brushless with all aluminum upgrades available for under budget ($250) that just needs batteries.
Not sure what else is on the market within my budget that I would be able to throw a battery in an bash, so any help would be appreciated!
We have some decent berms in our backyard (.5 acres) that I would like to play on and just overall have fun. I am really not looking to tinker, just use - have fun - and replace parts as necessary. I have looked and looked, but unfortunately the more I look the more options become available! I used to run Traxxas, so that was the first place I looked, but then came across Arrma, Redcat, among others. I have no problem purchasing a well taken care of used vehicle to get the most value, but don't have a problem with buying new either. My budget for this project is $400 all in, including all electronics and batteries (I have already have a Supermate DC6 charger).
I came across a Arrma Kraton 6s V4 locally with a few upgrades, but it looks like it has lived a pretty rough life. It is under budget ($375) and comes with the following:
Arrma Kraton 6s with STX radio
-6s 4500mah lipo Zippy Brand
-4s 5000mah lipo Turnigy Brand
- Voltage Hobbies aluminum servo mount
-Voltage Hobbies aluminum front chassis brace
-Voltage Hobbies aluminum rear chassis brace
-all manuals, tools and original box included.
Additionally, there is a new Redcat Volcano EPX Pro Brushless with all aluminum upgrades available for under budget ($250) that just needs batteries.
Not sure what else is on the market within my budget that I would be able to throw a battery in an bash, so any help would be appreciated!
Last edited by ShakingHorizons; 10-06-2021 at 01:40 PM.
#2
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
I'd say for the vehicle you are looking at, biggest things to watch for would be:
- Any puffing on the lipos
- condition of electronics in general
- wear on diff cups and bones going into those cups
- bearings
I would expect to do a full teardown and replace bearings and diff cups, maybe bones too (ifyou have a pin tool like what mugen makes could just refresh them). I'd say also do your comparison to what you see vehicles sell for on ebay (not listed for, SELL FOR) as a way to tell what a good price would be. factor in shipping and ebays fees too relative to whatever you offer.
If looking at new, see what you can get parts for easily, and what appears to have a good durability rating since you will hit stuff. Also, I'd factor in whtever I get matches up well with what your daughter is using. having similar vehicles can be more fun verus dad's car being a beast and her's not.
- Any puffing on the lipos
- condition of electronics in general
- wear on diff cups and bones going into those cups
- bearings
I would expect to do a full teardown and replace bearings and diff cups, maybe bones too (ifyou have a pin tool like what mugen makes could just refresh them). I'd say also do your comparison to what you see vehicles sell for on ebay (not listed for, SELL FOR) as a way to tell what a good price would be. factor in shipping and ebays fees too relative to whatever you offer.
If looking at new, see what you can get parts for easily, and what appears to have a good durability rating since you will hit stuff. Also, I'd factor in whtever I get matches up well with what your daughter is using. having similar vehicles can be more fun verus dad's car being a beast and her's not.
#4
Tech Initiate
Very cool you daughter is gaining interest in RC. I'm trying to gently push mine (5) into it with a Tamiya Lunchbox.
I have a V4 Kraton which is over 2 years old. It really depends on how the owner has treated it. Try and eyeball the drive shafts x6 and the chassis to see how straight they are. Some are fastidious about changing differential fluids regularly, upgrading to sealed bearings and good maintenance regime. Others just fix it when it breaks..... These are not toys and because they are reasonably strong, people test their limits. If you have no experience with working on these then I'd buy brand new... your budget may only afford the 3S range Granite, Big Rock have just released their latest generation. These vehicles may struggle in thicker grass or rougher terrain. Kraton will go many places that 3S range cannot (I had one years ago).... but will accordingly need more space. That STX radio had known issues with lag and caused many complaints. A little girl does not need a 6S rig. In fact, probably quite dangerous.
Traxxas and Arrma each have their own fan base. I would look to see which has more parts support in your area. Youtube will be your friend for general reviews and how-to videos.
Good luck - Hope I helped a little.
I have a V4 Kraton which is over 2 years old. It really depends on how the owner has treated it. Try and eyeball the drive shafts x6 and the chassis to see how straight they are. Some are fastidious about changing differential fluids regularly, upgrading to sealed bearings and good maintenance regime. Others just fix it when it breaks..... These are not toys and because they are reasonably strong, people test their limits. If you have no experience with working on these then I'd buy brand new... your budget may only afford the 3S range Granite, Big Rock have just released their latest generation. These vehicles may struggle in thicker grass or rougher terrain. Kraton will go many places that 3S range cannot (I had one years ago).... but will accordingly need more space. That STX radio had known issues with lag and caused many complaints. A little girl does not need a 6S rig. In fact, probably quite dangerous.
Traxxas and Arrma each have their own fan base. I would look to see which has more parts support in your area. Youtube will be your friend for general reviews and how-to videos.
Good luck - Hope I helped a little.
#5
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
ARRMA is a solid choice, very durable and excellent parts support. TRAXXAS designs are very dated and lack tuning features and tend to be more difficult to work on when compared to more modern designs, plus TRAXXAS has many design flaws that require expensive upgrades where ARRMA won't nickle and dime you on any necessary upgrades.
I'd like to take a moment to help reset your expectations when you say you prefer not to "tinker"... while I appreciate the need to buy an RTR and your not wanting to take the time to build a proper kit... you should understand that RTR really means "Ready To Re-assemble", this not a joke... every single RTR on the market should be rebuilt so that all the rubber seals are properly greased to prevent leaks in the diffs and shocks; also note that box stock setups are rarely what people need. When you build a kit, you learn exactly how everything is properly assembled to make it easy/quick to do proper maintenance. Plan to rebuild the car (apply fresh grease on rubber seals, flush + grease bearings and replace fluids in diffs + shocks) after every 15-20 battery packs. The fluids should be a milky grey in color, if they are dark brown, black or empty, then you're neglecting your car and will cause premature wear which will add to your long term expenses.
I'd like to take a moment to help reset your expectations when you say you prefer not to "tinker"... while I appreciate the need to buy an RTR and your not wanting to take the time to build a proper kit... you should understand that RTR really means "Ready To Re-assemble", this not a joke... every single RTR on the market should be rebuilt so that all the rubber seals are properly greased to prevent leaks in the diffs and shocks; also note that box stock setups are rarely what people need. When you build a kit, you learn exactly how everything is properly assembled to make it easy/quick to do proper maintenance. Plan to rebuild the car (apply fresh grease on rubber seals, flush + grease bearings and replace fluids in diffs + shocks) after every 15-20 battery packs. The fluids should be a milky grey in color, if they are dark brown, black or empty, then you're neglecting your car and will cause premature wear which will add to your long term expenses.
#6
Very cool you daughter is gaining interest in RC. I'm trying to gently push mine (5) into it with a Tamiya Lunchbox.
I have a V4 Kraton which is over 2 years old. It really depends on how the owner has treated it. Try and eyeball the drive shafts x6 and the chassis to see how straight they are. Some are fastidious about changing differential fluids regularly, upgrading to sealed bearings and good maintenance regime. Others just fix it when it breaks..... These are not toys and because they are reasonably strong, people test their limits. If you have no experience with working on these then I'd buy brand new... your budget may only afford the 3S range Granite, Big Rock have just released their latest generation. These vehicles may struggle in thicker grass or rougher terrain. Kraton will go many places that 3S range cannot (I had one years ago).... but will accordingly need more space. That STX radio had known issues with lag and caused many complaints. A little girl does not need a 6S rig. In fact, probably quite dangerous.
Traxxas and Arrma each have their own fan base. I would look to see which has more parts support in your area. Youtube will be your friend for general reviews and how-to videos.
Good luck - Hope I helped a little.
I have a V4 Kraton which is over 2 years old. It really depends on how the owner has treated it. Try and eyeball the drive shafts x6 and the chassis to see how straight they are. Some are fastidious about changing differential fluids regularly, upgrading to sealed bearings and good maintenance regime. Others just fix it when it breaks..... These are not toys and because they are reasonably strong, people test their limits. If you have no experience with working on these then I'd buy brand new... your budget may only afford the 3S range Granite, Big Rock have just released their latest generation. These vehicles may struggle in thicker grass or rougher terrain. Kraton will go many places that 3S range cannot (I had one years ago).... but will accordingly need more space. That STX radio had known issues with lag and caused many complaints. A little girl does not need a 6S rig. In fact, probably quite dangerous.
Traxxas and Arrma each have their own fan base. I would look to see which has more parts support in your area. Youtube will be your friend for general reviews and how-to videos.
Good luck - Hope I helped a little.
Just to clarify, I am looking for something to use along side my daughter, who will eventually upgrade to whatever I purchase. 3S seems to be the perfect spot for me currently and for her to upgrade in to. 6S just seems to be insanity for my or her use, lol. I am looking for a 1/10 or 1/8 so that I can use it in most terrains, including thicker grass and rough terrain.
Regarding the used Kraton V4, I will probably pass on it as I have seen a lot of complaints about the STX radio and I just don't have a good feeling about its current condition.
ARRMA is a solid choice, very durable and excellent parts support. TRAXXAS designs are very dated and lack tuning features and tend to be more difficult to work on when compared to more modern designs, plus TRAXXAS has many design flaws that require expensive upgrades where ARRMA won't nickle and dime you on any necessary upgrades.
I'd like to take a moment to help reset your expectations when you say you prefer not to "tinker"... while I appreciate the need to buy an RTR and your not wanting to take the time to build a proper kit... you should understand that RTR really means "Ready To Re-assemble", this not a joke... every single RTR on the market should be rebuilt so that all the rubber seals are properly greased to prevent leaks in the diffs and shocks; also note that box stock setups are rarely what people need. When you build a kit, you learn exactly how everything is properly assembled to make it easy/quick to do proper maintenance. Plan to rebuild the car (apply fresh grease on rubber seals, flush + grease bearings and replace fluids in diffs + shocks) after every 15-20 battery packs. The fluids should be a milky grey in color, if they are dark brown, black or empty, then you're neglecting your car and will cause premature wear which will add to your long term expenses.
I'd like to take a moment to help reset your expectations when you say you prefer not to "tinker"... while I appreciate the need to buy an RTR and your not wanting to take the time to build a proper kit... you should understand that RTR really means "Ready To Re-assemble", this not a joke... every single RTR on the market should be rebuilt so that all the rubber seals are properly greased to prevent leaks in the diffs and shocks; also note that box stock setups are rarely what people need. When you build a kit, you learn exactly how everything is properly assembled to make it easy/quick to do proper maintenance. Plan to rebuild the car (apply fresh grease on rubber seals, flush + grease bearings and replace fluids in diffs + shocks) after every 15-20 battery packs. The fluids should be a milky grey in color, if they are dark brown, black or empty, then you're neglecting your car and will cause premature wear which will add to your long term expenses.
I am surprised that no one has commented on the redcat - are they not desirable or?
#7
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
This forum is probably a bit more race oriented so I wouldn't be surprised not as much love for the redcat.
I have owned a redcat 1/5 scale truck and I liked it for what it was. Just have to temper expectations as it wasn't like an MCD 1/5 lol.
As far as Traxxas and all, personally its all relative to what you are looking to do, etc. I have race level vehicles and I also run in our Traxxas Slash spec class. for what it is, the Slash does the job, is it as elegant as some newer vehicles? no, but I have tempered my expectations.
That said, based on what you are wanting, personally I find 1/8 scale based vehicles like a buggy or truck probably easiest to use for bashing etc.
I have owned a redcat 1/5 scale truck and I liked it for what it was. Just have to temper expectations as it wasn't like an MCD 1/5 lol.
As far as Traxxas and all, personally its all relative to what you are looking to do, etc. I have race level vehicles and I also run in our Traxxas Slash spec class. for what it is, the Slash does the job, is it as elegant as some newer vehicles? no, but I have tempered my expectations.
That said, based on what you are wanting, personally I find 1/8 scale based vehicles like a buggy or truck probably easiest to use for bashing etc.
#8
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
RedCat is hit and miss, most of their designs are rebrands and you'll need to research who the OEM is for a particular vehicle and then you can determine if that chassis is good (or not).
Keep in mind that RedCat will tend to discontinue a car more frequently which can be problematic down the road with getting parts. ARRMA will also discontinue too, but will tend to be less often. TRAXXAS rarely if ever discontinues their stuff, but there is a point of diminishing return with an design that is too old or too new, I feel the sweet spot is ARRMA if I was a basher and going to buy an RTR for myself today.
I have never owned an ARRMA personally, but I've made dozens of minor repairs to ARRMA's who show up to race at the club in my area where I believe ARRMA is about the most durable RTR you can get for the money based on my observations seeing novice drivers drive the snot out of them.
Keep in mind that RedCat will tend to discontinue a car more frequently which can be problematic down the road with getting parts. ARRMA will also discontinue too, but will tend to be less often. TRAXXAS rarely if ever discontinues their stuff, but there is a point of diminishing return with an design that is too old or too new, I feel the sweet spot is ARRMA if I was a basher and going to buy an RTR for myself today.
I have never owned an ARRMA personally, but I've made dozens of minor repairs to ARRMA's who show up to race at the club in my area where I believe ARRMA is about the most durable RTR you can get for the money based on my observations seeing novice drivers drive the snot out of them.
#9
Tekno MT410. The best basher.
#11
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
On the subject of maintenance, this weekend decided to run a Hobao SCT I have. Bought it years ago, never put electronics in it. My son wanted to go run RC's, so I thought I would get it going so he could run with my Tekno SCT410... Should only be about 30-45 minutes to put in the motor and servo, but two hours later, I was still cussing it. That truck was just awkward to work on, seems no thought was put into working on it.
My Arrma cars have spoiled me in this regard, I guess. They are VERY easy to work on, with a lot of design thought put into how to take them apart. The 6s cars, I can have the diffs out in about 2 minutes, without really rushing. My Tekno might be tougher and more race-able, but getting the diffs out takes a bit... I been in the hobby on an off for 30+ years, and had cars from at least a dozen brands, and other than 2wd pan cars, the Arrma cars are some of the easiest to work on.
If you are on a budget, I would look at the Arrma 3s over the 6s line. With the 6s cars, parts, batteries, tires, everything costs more. My Granite is is very tough, but not unbreakable. It gets run on 3s mostly these days, and for the most part, I can have fun with it (jumping with flips) and not break it. My kids, however, can break anything... LOL
I have my SCT410 set up as a 3s 1/10 MT, and it is a great truck. It is probably tougher than my Granite, but the Granite is more fun to run, so it gets run and jumped more. SCT's are not as popular now, so you can often pick up raced/well maintained truck for very cheap. Mine is the ".1" and I got with electronics and spares (but in need of maintenance) for under $200. I put about $50 in parts, plus some tires and a body, and it was up and running
my .02,
Jerry
My Arrma cars have spoiled me in this regard, I guess. They are VERY easy to work on, with a lot of design thought put into how to take them apart. The 6s cars, I can have the diffs out in about 2 minutes, without really rushing. My Tekno might be tougher and more race-able, but getting the diffs out takes a bit... I been in the hobby on an off for 30+ years, and had cars from at least a dozen brands, and other than 2wd pan cars, the Arrma cars are some of the easiest to work on.
If you are on a budget, I would look at the Arrma 3s over the 6s line. With the 6s cars, parts, batteries, tires, everything costs more. My Granite is is very tough, but not unbreakable. It gets run on 3s mostly these days, and for the most part, I can have fun with it (jumping with flips) and not break it. My kids, however, can break anything... LOL
Tekno MT410. The best basher.
my .02,
Jerry
#12
In that price range you’ll want a 1/10 monster truck, either Granite/Big Rock, Rival MT10. The Traxxas are overpriced for what you get and not as durable IMO.
#14
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
Case is point is the RedCat Volcano which is made by HSP and also rebranded as the Exceed Infinitive and Himoto, more info here:
#15
Tech Regular
The Redcat TR-MT10E is a very good monster truck basher that runs on 2S or 3S. It holds up really well and can be upgraded with several different factory option parts. If running only 2S, the Redcat Blackout, Dukono and Volcano are really good as well. Redcat has gotten better over the years. Some like to put the brand down since when they first started they brought a lot of really cheap models to the market and some weren't all that great.