Hey all hope you’re well and in good health! Reaching out to you with a request that you watch a YouTube video and tell me if the amount of drive train noise I’m hearing is expected or not?

I apologize as I’m unable to post the link! Video is titled TLR 22x-4 Drivetrain noise by Thomas Southworth

Vehicle is a 22x-4 with a slipper clutch, 81t spur and a Robinson racing 48p pinion, recommended teeth based off the manual.

thank you for your time in advance

My 8ight-e 4.0 is more quite than that, however decided on universal drives all around, except for a serpent pro version cva center drive. Run a serpent vented clutch bell, tlr lightweight spur, lightweight rear ring gear.

The biggest difference in sound is when I changed to lightweight spurs and universals. I personally have always opted for universals since my first rc-10 caddy.

mesh has a lot to do with it, if I mis-mesh my rig it screams at me..

I would think those dog bone pin savers or whatever they are.. tend to make the outdrives more quiet.

How much mesh do you have? Sounds like a big gap. You just need the tiniest of a tick as the spur gear is rocked back and forth. Especially with 48 pitch gears.

Another thing to check, since the nasty sound is only occuring on the deceleration, is to just put your finger (or soft rubber item) and lightly let the spur rub/drag as it rolls. Don't over-accelerate and don't press too hard, or your finger can burn. Also, ensure that you don't get your finger dragged into the pinion, hence why it's safer to use a soft rubber item/tool. The goal is to just put a little drag on the spur so the drivetrain/spur is slowing down at the same rate as the motor, AND drag forces the gear mesh against one another, so the cogging/rattle of the motor's detents is less pronounced. Is it less?

As long as your mesh is fine, and not overly loose, I think you're good to go.

The mic near the car make exaggerate the noise a bit. But I would definitely check the gear mesh. Try both looser and tighter and see how they sound. As noted above. 48 pitch you only want a tick of play when wiggling the gears.

Thank you everyone for the excellent suggestions. I was unfortunately limited in my amounts of responses but do want to let you know that adjusting the gear again was an INCREDIBLE improvement. I initially tried adjusting the mesh by using the piece of paper trick and found that it just wasn't ideal. After making the adjustment for the 4th and 5th times, it was as smooth as butter!

Thank you x 10000!!!!

You're welcome, and I'm glad you got it sorted out. FWIW, I have always found the "paper technique" to NOT work very well. I've always been better off setting the mesh by feel.

Interesting(?) anecdotal story about gear mesh: Way back in the year 1999, I had a summer job in between college years at a machine shop within a steel processing plant. Having previous R/C experience as a kid growing up in the early 1990's, I was able to help the shop machinist produce a smooth-spinning custom-made gear box mechanism after the previous one failed. It was a pretty simple gearbox, with I think 3 custom-cut gears. The clam-shell case design, reused from the old gearbox, unfortunately, put the gears too tightly together. He thought it would be OK, but I said that he must have a little "play" in between the teeth to prevent heat and premature wear. I demonstrated to him how just how a little bit of play, by feel, was just right. He took it into consideration and designed/fabricated a new clam-shell case to hold the gears a bit more loosely. The end result was a smooth-spinning gearbox. So despite being a pretty good and seasoned machinist, he didn't think to leave a bit of slack in between the gears! True story. Adjust by feel...not paper!