rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I was referring to something other than is currently available. 6s run cooler than 4s but not enough to do a 30-45 minute main. I’m thinking 8-12s with 500-900kv motor.
But ROAR and IFMAR would obviously have to change their rules.

JerryRigged

iTrader: (2)

As a 6s basher, I don't get this. I run 15-20 minutes a charge, with 3.8MT tires bashing, and closer to 30 minutes if I use truggy tires and dial the speed down to 4s track speeds for a track bash. I don't run a cooling fan or anything specials like that. Heat is a non-issue. This is with a "RTR" grade 4074 2050kv Arrma motor and a Castle MMX ESC. On track days, I run three Lipos, running one, charging one, resting one. Even starting a fresh battery with a hot car, I still don't overheat anything.

The only heat issue I have is with my 1/8 truggy, on 95f degree days, when I try to run WFO for a full battery in a grassy field with giant 3.8MT tires... That will send my MMX into thermal limp mode, but that is also using a LOT more power than a track truggy (or buggy) with track tires tuned to track speeds.

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

The motor will do the same amount of ‘power’ drawn (electromotive force) as voltage increases however current decreases. So at a lower voltage the current is higher thus higher potential for heat.

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

So it is better to keep your motor at a higher voltage (throttle curve helps with heat with trade offs) and good brakes. To me running a motor at 50% may over heat it, if one finds them selves at or near that range all the time.. the heat may come from that.

Jurassic579

Thanks for lot of great input.

I feel a lot of americans have had a say But how is it looking in Europe? As the nitro % is also going down.

Furadi

You can't compare bashing to racing. The throttle in bashing is too inconsistent allowing the motor plenty of opportunity to rest.

I actually ran my 6s Notorious on track once with a 70% throttle cap and even when it was 80F the motor was coming off the track at around 250F. (much hotter than my Teknos)

ray4624

iTrader: (5)

yes and no.
if you look at the power curve of lithium batts (from what i know...which isnt much)
a battery gets charged to its full power and immediately drops a bit to a certain voltage for say 70 percent of its life and then will taper off from there which is the fade you feel at the end of a main (or heat soak)
so if you have a 3.8 based cell it should in theory hold that 4.2v for longer then a 3.7 based cell would because its already at that level in which the initial drop would send it to.
so a lihv battery will spend a majority of your race at a higher voltage then a standard lipo
does that make any sense lol?

Furadi

Not not really heh. You have to not think about them in terms of different cells because they're not. Again you can charge any high quality lipo to 4.35v. That's the only difference.

ray4624

iTrader: (5)

so then i guess i fell for the marketing
i was led to believe that a "hv" cell stayed at a higher voltage for longer.



i was referring to something like this.
charging both packs (here to 25v) would lead to a higher voltage throughout the curve....but essentially if they are the same cells then this doesnt make any sense.
either way...i dont see a difference personally in the smc 6000 lcg pack i was running and the new lcg lihv pack i run from them lol

UK.hardcore

8-12s would be a whole different ballpark for sure.

Furadi

No that part makes sense but again we're only talking about charging to 4.35v which has nothing to do with the sticker on the lipo. As an FYI I've always charged all of my lipos to 4.25v HV or not because its a good balance of overcharging vs longevity. Any lipo HV or otherwise will degrade faster if you always charge it to 4.35v.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

If you took your basher to the track and put proper tires on it, and had a good driver driving it, it would thermal sooner. Hard acceleration and hard braking are much different than doing speed runs. For a pro level driver or good club level racer to make a 30-45 minute race will require a different setup. Our 4s ebuggy with a 1900kv motor gets pretty warm in an 8 minute main. Using a 5-6000 mah battery. More than enough battery but the motor is on the edge.

Smokeyr67

E Buggy will continue to grow as battery tech grows.

In a few years we'll see 1/8th Ebuggy in the worlds, in the short term we might have to develop quick change battery systems for longer races (which is something I'd love to see) but in the meanwhile 15 to 20 minute races are do-able.

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

I guess I never really checked to see what the overall performance is using at least 80% rated capacity or how long the run time was, I do know I can qualify and finish the main at the club level on one charge but have two batteries that I use now and only run them down on the pre qual and practice. So both on the event will be at or close to storage when finished.

protek 5600mah lihv
Motor options
tekin t8 4030/4038 gen2/3
team trinity d8.5 latest
esc
RX8 g3 with hotwire

Serpent clutch, tlr spinner

my math tells me if by chance I use down to lvc I would get about 30mins plus depending on esc setup and motor choice.

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

The 4038 does get warm, but not as warm when calibrated correctly to meet buggy requirements and so does the trinity d8.5 it stays warm to touch most of the time using a similar esc setup.

The 4030 does get hotter and run it without a clutch as well depending on where I what to set the esc.