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Old 01-24-2007, 11:20 PM   #1231
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Rears-Proline Hole Shot(new)
Fronts-Team Losi 7507(came with truck)
looks like you're affiliated with Ultimate in your sig - bought the truck from Gary over there
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Old 01-24-2007, 11:24 PM   #1232
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I know Gary. Used to work there and still friends with the Ultimate family.

Are you running Grey Bomb one foams? With the drier weather R3 seem to hook up better then M3. Odds are you need to get on the throttle a little lighter though. I would stick with the tires you got and learn to drive the car. Is the car spinning out when you get on the gas or do you feel you are just lacking acceleration?
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Old 01-24-2007, 11:26 PM   #1233
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Told you the 16 was right Brandon I know stock and mod gearing. Its the 19T that gets me Casper knows what I'm talking about Now I know better though Thanks to Casper, the gearing master!

edit: im a ssssslooooowww typer..... or maybe just a slow thinker...
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Old 01-24-2007, 11:35 PM   #1234
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R3, M3 - i'm lost?? not down with these terms yet

yup Erik - you called it , you definately set up my truck right that first day(diff, slipper, pinion and spur)
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Old 01-24-2007, 11:39 PM   #1235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonizr
R3, M3 - i'm lost?? not down with these terms yet

yup Erik - you called it , you definately set up my truck right that first day(diff, slipper, pinion and spur)

They are the differnt rubber compounds....I can remember which is softer i think it was m3 but dont quote me
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Old 01-24-2007, 11:40 PM   #1236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonizr
R3, M3 - i'm lost?? not down with these terms yet

yup Erik - you called it , you definately set up my truck right that first day(diff, slipper, pinion and spur)

M3 and R3 are different tire compounds. You have M3 most likely.


see... I told you i was a slow typer


The difference between m3 and R3 is that indeed m3 is softer. r3 was developed as a longer lasting m3. It works best when SoCal is drier and it pretty much only works on clay tracks.
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Old 01-24-2007, 11:42 PM   #1237
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just happen to still have the tag - yes, M3...catching on(slowly)
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Old 01-25-2007, 12:58 AM   #1238
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So cal Boys!!!!
Feb 17
family hobbies in Santee(san diego)
Casper sounds like he is starting a group to come down and 'represent' so cal.
Get your 'game face' on!!
We all had a great time on Sun.
your guys' turn to come kick our 'butts' on our home track
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Old 01-25-2007, 01:04 AM   #1239
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I had a hell of a time down at the track tonight. Hung a brush 1st heat, rode through 2nd heat with no brakes, qualifying 6th out of 6. Managed a 10 lap 3rd place finish though. Whew. Barely.
What I missed was the gang. And you were all at home typing.
Are Wed's usually pretty slow? It's my special treat to get out and race during the week.
Anyway, after Sunday they are changing the track.
See you all there Sunday, I hope.

Casper I took your advice and opted out no the red tapers. Ran the old receding Holeshots one more time (slip sliding away). Also Casper, I tried your setup on the front, with the blue buggy springs (MF2). A question; how do you get the arms level? I had about 1/2" of unsprung droop at the tire. Very unpredictable reactions when front tire tapping some of the humps. Went back to orange springs.

Night all. Back to work.
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Old 01-25-2007, 01:20 AM   #1240
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Default One more thing.

My charging method 3.5amp charge with a 5 amp repeak.
Well, the 5 amp charger died. What a shame IB3800's charged a 3.5amps.

If any of you have an extra 5 or 6 amp AC charger in the neighborhood of $50 bring it down to the track.
I'll probably be interested.
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:51 AM   #1241
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jgroenhof-- You cannot get rid of the unsprung droop when running the blue springs but it has been so long since I have NOT run blue springs I am not sure what it would feel like to put longer ones on again! LOL. Setting ride hieight to arms level should have not been an issue but I know what you mean about the droop and it has never been a problem for me. The springs stay put in the cups and everything. That has all been a non issue for me racing with those front springs for the last 2+ years.

One a charger. I know it can be expensive but look into getting a good battery charger. They typically last MANY years if treated well and with a fully adjustible charger you are able to charge your expensive batteries safer which makes them last longer. You can get a Integy 16X405D2 for $135 at Ultimate. It it all for charging capability. Iwill have to think about other ecomonical solutions but this is not a good place to try and get by. You low charge rate on your batteries will actually effect performance. I do not like to tell poeple to spend a lot of money and trust me you do not need a $350 Turbo 35 (great charger buy the way! ) If you are racing I always recommend you get the best radio and best charger you can afford. The reason is with these electronics they last forever and if you buy right the first time you will not need to buy twice. (There are a lot of great radios for $200 or less buy the way as well!)

Sorry for the rant. I have sold R/C stuff for a few years!
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Old 01-25-2007, 06:14 PM   #1242
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Brandonizr, I see you found Casper!!

Your "goodies" are in the mail, so watch tomorrow!!

We also have a Banzai thread on here, you're welcome

to come and chat and ask questions there too!!

We're in the on-road section, then the team and company

section at the top!! Is that right Casper??????

Judi
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Old 01-25-2007, 06:45 PM   #1243
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Yep! I did not think I was that hard to find!
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:49 PM   #1244
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jgroenhof - What Casper is saying is true on the charger. He gave me the same advice and I had to vent to battery packs before I took it. The new charger works like a charm and has a lot of features I thought I wouldnt need. The best part is I havent killed any more batteries with it. I got the Integy 16X512 for just over $100.
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:52 PM   #1245
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The charger James has is DC though so you will need a DC power supply for it. Those are extra money. The AC/DC chargers are a great bang for the buck if you do not have a DC power supply already or can find one for cheap.
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