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Old 04-02-2006, 08:48 PM   #1
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Default Stephen Bess break in method

hello everyone out there, im sure most of u have heard of his break in method
He mentioned that, we should run on a slightly rich side. My question is,

1) do i have to run on e rich side for e whole break in? or after the first 15min, i will have to lean do a bit and continue for the next 25min .

2) i understand that the original OS factory setting is super rich, do i have to lean down a bit or can run with its original setting?

3) if during my break in process, my temperature do not hit 200F, do i have to lean down slightly ?

Thanks in advance!



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Old 04-02-2006, 09:28 PM   #2
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to get it up to temp for heat cycling, wrap the head with aluminum foil..... this way it will generate more heat while still at a rich setting..
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Old 04-03-2006, 11:57 AM   #3
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Greg tells the truth!

If it will run with the factory settings and you can drive it around you shoud be fine. Just make sure it is rich enough. Sometimes factory setting are off and not set rich. Make sure, as I have had some that were actually lean for break-in. Any more I will fatten them up 1/2 turn+ before I even try to start them and re tune if necessary.

After the first 15min you should be able to start leaning it out a little at a time. About an hour per tank, just make sure you always see plenty of smoke and try to keep the temps 200+ for sure. I like to run mine at least 230 druning break-in with foil wraped around head and rich as I can and still be able to drive it easy.
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Old 04-03-2006, 04:50 PM   #4
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Could someone please let me know where I can find details of Stephen Bess' break in procedure? I have several engines to break in and have not been able to locate it. Also, any thoughts on his procedure? Good, bad or indifferent? Thanks guys.

Scott
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Old 04-03-2006, 05:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccars4scott
Could someone please let me know where I can find details of Stephen Bess' break in procedure? I have several engines to break in and have not been able to locate it. Also, any thoughts on his procedure? Good, bad or indifferent? Thanks guys.

Scott
This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:49 PM   #6
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thanks mgtman. i appreciate it.

Scott
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgtman

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power

hi, as he mentioned tuned only slight rich?

does this means factory setting?
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Old 04-07-2006, 12:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryu Goh
hi, as he mentioned tuned only slight rich?

does this means factory setting?
Alamak Ryu, where were u when he said 'O.S. factory setting is always very rich & that's when the most stress occur' ?. Sleeping ah ?!.
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