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Losi 8ight 2.0/3.0 Parts Help

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Losi 8ight 2.0/3.0 Parts Help

Old 01-20-2021, 09:39 AM
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Default Losi 8ight 2.0/3.0 Parts Help

Hey guys,

I bought a used Losi 2.0 Truggy a year or so ago that was converted to electric with the Losi conversion kit. It's been a great truck and able to take a lot of bashing. The rear center dog bone recently bent and the screw holes for the receiver box recently stripped out so I decided to convert the chassis into a 3.0e as the receiver box was not available. All of the parts fit on the new chassis but I have an issue with the front center dog bone. The 3.0e manual references the part number TLR242001 for the front center dog bone which I purchased only to find out that it's at least .5 inches too short. Then, I moved onto purchasing TLR242010 which is listed as the front and rear dog bone for the 3.0 chassis - only to find out that the front dog bone is about .5 inches too long! So I'm really lost on what part I really need to complete this thing. What correct part do I need to finish this?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-20-2021, 09:44 PM
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The 8ight-T 2.0 kit seems to have come with CV joints on both front and rear differential input. Since the input shaft turned into a dogbone outdrive on the 8ight-Te 3.0, I'd be a bit concerned with ordering a dogbone instead of the CV axle if you are using the 2.0's differentials and input shafts.

However, if somehow your diffs have dogbone input shaft outdrives, there is a review on TLR242010 that seems to verify your issue: Front axle too long, rear axle too short. They suggest that you purchase the buggy version of the driveshaft (TLR242002), instead of TLR242001 that is indicated in the manual. I can't verify this information is correct/incorrect, but since the reviewer had the same issues as you, it could be a possible fix.
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Old 01-21-2021, 11:53 AM
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A 8ight 3.0 truggy is worlds different than a 2.0

keep in mind there is typos in the manual about what dog bone to use.

I have a 2.0 Flex tech buggy, 3.0 golddust truggy 4.0 ultralite buggy, 4.0e buggy and can measure the dogbones later tonight.

Also have drive train from a 2.0 truggy

I do not think a TLR242010 will work on the 3.0 nitro chassis, the manual typoed on this.

Last edited by Juglenaut; 01-21-2021 at 12:08 PM.
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Old 01-21-2021, 11:58 AM
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A good guess would be 92.5mm pin to pin front center bone, the next one I believe jumps to 96mm

I had a 92.5 in my 8ight 4.0 ultralite and upon building it the bone bound up, noticed right away and actually have to use the X front center bone 87.5mm (the 8ight e4.0 uses this bone in the rear) with a flanged bearing and had to update the front chassis brace.
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Old 01-21-2021, 04:12 PM
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It measures about 105mm Pin to pin on my tlr 3.0 nitro trugster front center dogbone

will get a photo later today
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Old 01-21-2021, 05:12 PM
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Old 01-21-2021, 05:22 PM
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It seems 8ight 2.0 rear center cva will work on front 8ight-t 3.0
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:59 PM
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Thanks for the help and info. I failed to mention that the previous owner seemed to have converted the front and rear diffs to accept dog bones and not cv shafts.

Ive purchased part tlr242002 which describes it as 3.0 buggy rear OR 3.0 truggy front. Im hoping this solves my issue. Will keep you all posted.

thanks again
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Old 01-26-2021, 03:24 PM
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I'm about to have a 2.0 as well and interested to see where this goes.. subscribing
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Old 01-26-2021, 11:24 PM
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confirmed that TLR242002 - sometimes listed as the rear center shaft for an 8B, is also the front center shaft for the 8ight 3.0e T. Im all set now!


Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
I'm about to have a 2.0 as well and interested to see where this goes.. subscribing
Its pretty easy to convert to the 3.0e chassis.

Overview of parts list (truggy)
- 3.0e main chassis
- 3.0e radio box
- 3.0e battery box (this is truggy and buggy specific)
- 3.0e motor/center diff mount
- 3.0e front and rear chassis braces
- 3.0e center diff shims and spacer kit

some optional parts I used
- 3.0e front and rear shock towers
- 3.0e front aluminum hubs
- 3.0e split mount aluminum diff/motor mount

My diffs were already converted to use the lightweight steel diff cups which then allowed me to use the front and rear dog bones - reference the exploded view diagram in the 3.0e manaual for the correct part numbers.

Thanks for your help, everyone.
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Old 01-27-2021, 10:02 AM
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Donít forgot about the update on the gearbox.. pinion spacers and the aluminum bearing gearbox inserts.

Truggies are expensive in either class. T4.0 suspension once again changed so if you jump from a t2.0 decided either 3.0 or 4.0 arms and respective cv length for versions and no the 4.0 is not longer, actually went shorter on the t4.0

But knowing this a update can be done affordably (if you can find decent used parts) thou there are notable differences in shock lengths from a 2.0 to 3.0, also tower length and shock/camber position. Updating differentials/gearbox to lightweight can be expensive, if they are the grey hardened steel or better and not notched there is little reason to replace them as dimensionally they are the same even X outdrives will work.

If it were me I would just locate a 3.0 and convert it or convert what you have seems kind of expensive to jump the platform as nitro converted has a more inline driveline than a ep chassis so in a sense an advantage.
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Old 01-27-2021, 04:06 PM
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Awesome thank you for that write up. I've been trying to find that exact info and see if it's worth it to convert it to a 3.0

Let us know how you like it as a 3.0 vs a 2.0

Did you happen to measure the chassis lengths to see what and where the differences are?
Or the body? I'm looking for a body for the 2.0 but don't see any, only for 3.0 and 4.0... so not sure what to do there.
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Old 01-28-2021, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Awesome thank you for that write up. I've been trying to find that exact info and see if it's worth it to convert it to a 3.0

Let us know how you like it as a 3.0 vs a 2.0

Did you happen to measure the chassis lengths to see what and where the differences are?
Or the body? I'm looking for a body for the 2.0 but don't see any, only for 3.0 and 4.0... so not sure what to do there.
Honestly im just a basher. I bought this used from a seller who converted the 2.0 to electric. The servo/reciever box starting striping where the screws are and it moved around a lot when steering. I couldnt find a compatible box to save my life so this is what prompted me to convert to a 3.0e truggy. So while the chassis and its components are 3.0e, the front and rear suspension and diff assemblies are 2.0 and Im not sure what the differences are from 2.0 to 3.0 front/rear assemblies. I also mounted 3.8 monster tires on there to bash with and its such a joy lol. I took her out for a spin today after getting aligned on the setup station and she bashed like no other - straight, plush, and a lot of fun.

sorry I cant provide more details than that but feel free to message me if you need help with your conversion.

stay safe!
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:00 AM
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The GenIII nitro radio trays are for Nitro 8ight-all and cut it for EP conversion.

The 8ight-all gearboxes were updated on the 2.0-all when TLR made nylon locking gearbox inserts on both sides and have not been technically updated since the 2.0 as the aluminum inserts are “intended” for the 2.0. Losi and TLR have changed the numbers but the gearboxes are all the same except OG non-locking rear gearbox. When the truggy 3.0 was being designed the larger turnbuckles, 8.8mm rod ends/link balls were implemented on the truggy and then the buggy 4.0 got them but are really are an option on a buggy and since the ten-SCT has the moly HD rod ends that don’t pull out like the OG style ones the 4mm tierods to me became more desirable on a buggy than ever before even more as titanium with super duty thread length.

So yeah a recent change was to revert back to a set of lunsford titanium 4mm tierods for a ten-SCT (they are super duty thread length)with moly HD rod ends all around on my 8E4. Sumthin
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Old 01-29-2021, 09:14 AM
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Another thing for bashing long term and having an absolute best experience with large swamper or mudders on is to get the differential ring gears and pinion for a truggy 3.0 TLR changed the ratio for larger tire diameters. Can be expensive to change the gearboxes ratio not an absolute.

For some reason the truggy 3.0 I got has a under driven rear and over driven front.. and when I rebuilt it I kept the same gear set in it. Looks like the truggy front ring and pinion and rear buggy ring gear with a truggy pinion (looks black thou not laser etch 12t)
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