7Likes1/10 Buggy front wings?!
09-18-2020, 11:15 PM
#16
First of all you need to determine whether the front end is only light at high speeds, or light all the time. Since the Bandit is a rear-motor buggy, it's quite likely the front end is light all the time, and the best fix is to add some lead weight to the front. I've had to do that for all my rear-motor RCs except for my Kyosho Optima, which is heavier than normal in the front because it's 4WD.
If you really want to attach a front wing, here are two ideas. 1) Do you see those two screws at the very front? Pull them out, get longer screws, and install the wing to that spot with a couple spacers underneath. You can cut off the front body post to let the wing sit lower; you won't need the front body clip anymore because the front of the body will be slotted in between the chassis and the underside of the wing. Alternately, 2) You can drill a couple angled holes into the top crossmember of the front shock tower and attach the wing there, with a couple plastic spacers that you've shaved to the proper angle on the back side. I'd recommend the first approach, though.
If you really want to attach a front wing, here are two ideas. 1) Do you see those two screws at the very front? Pull them out, get longer screws, and install the wing to that spot with a couple spacers underneath. You can cut off the front body post to let the wing sit lower; you won't need the front body clip anymore because the front of the body will be slotted in between the chassis and the underside of the wing. Alternately, 2) You can drill a couple angled holes into the top crossmember of the front shock tower and attach the wing there, with a couple plastic spacers that you've shaved to the proper angle on the back side. I'd recommend the first approach, though.
09-19-2020, 02:08 AM
#17
If the lot isn't smooth enough for the buggy to get up to at least 25mph, it's unlikely that a front spoiler would have any effect. Remember front spoilers are much smaller and catch much less air than rear spoilers do.
As a visual aid, here's how I attached a front wing to my Tamiya DF-03. It's basically the same way that I suggested to you. I didn't notice any meaningful change in its handling, so I didn't bother to do the same for any of my other buggies, but I left this one installed because it looks cool.
Maybe it would have more of an effect on a rear-motor RWD buggy, but lead weight would still probably be more useful overall, especially at lower speeds. Lead weights would also make the front suspension more responsive over small bumps, because it would add inertia as well as downforce.
As a visual aid, here's how I attached a front wing to my Tamiya DF-03. It's basically the same way that I suggested to you. I didn't notice any meaningful change in its handling, so I didn't bother to do the same for any of my other buggies, but I left this one installed because it looks cool.
Maybe it would have more of an effect on a rear-motor RWD buggy, but lead weight would still probably be more useful overall, especially at lower speeds. Lead weights would also make the front suspension more responsive over small bumps, because it would add inertia as well as downforce.
09-24-2020, 07:30 AM
#18
Wings in buggies
Whilst front and rear wings do provide downforce to the buggy when they are on the ground. They technically only work when the buggy is moving. The faster the buggy is moving, the more downforce the car experiences...
what this means is that at you will not notice much if your buggy is moving slowly or perhaps at parts of the track where the buggy moves slow (like around a tight turn)
wings also affects the buggy a lot whilst it is in the air (during a jump).
so a more consistent way of getting more steering, will be to add weights to the front of the buggy, or move the battery forward. And vice versa for less steering.
there is also an issue of weight transfer affecting steering... but that is something else altogether.
alexander
what this means is that at you will not notice much if your buggy is moving slowly or perhaps at parts of the track where the buggy moves slow (like around a tight turn)
wings also affects the buggy a lot whilst it is in the air (during a jump).
so a more consistent way of getting more steering, will be to add weights to the front of the buggy, or move the battery forward. And vice versa for less steering.
there is also an issue of weight transfer affecting steering... but that is something else altogether.
alexander
09-24-2020, 05:37 PM
#19
Whilst front and rear wings do provide downforce to the buggy when they are on the ground. They technically only work when the buggy is moving. The faster the buggy is moving, the more downforce the car experiences...
what this means is that at you will not notice much if your buggy is moving slowly or perhaps at parts of the track where the buggy moves slow (like around a tight turn)
wings also affects the buggy a lot whilst it is in the air (during a jump).
so a more consistent way of getting more steering, will be to add weights to the front of the buggy, or move the battery forward. And vice versa for less steering.
there is also an issue of weight transfer affecting steering... but that is something else altogether.
alexander
what this means is that at you will not notice much if your buggy is moving slowly or perhaps at parts of the track where the buggy moves slow (like around a tight turn)
wings also affects the buggy a lot whilst it is in the air (during a jump).
so a more consistent way of getting more steering, will be to add weights to the front of the buggy, or move the battery forward. And vice versa for less steering.
there is also an issue of weight transfer affecting steering... but that is something else altogether.
alexander
09-30-2020, 06:08 PM
#20
I finally took it out today and it is quick!, but the servo arm I used doesn’t work on the HiTec 645mg servo.........should have caught that months ago
10-01-2020, 10:00 AM
#21
Well, as long as you find one the right width, and it doesn’t impede on the shock movement, you could try mounting it between the shock and the mount. The TLR 22 5.0’s wing has a lip up front that is designed to bolt up with the nut that holds the shock mount from behind the tower. Since you don’t have that luxury, pinning it behind the shock MIGHT be the next best thing?
I believe that the Associated wing is the same concept, except since their front shocks mount behind the tower, the wing is bolted in front of the tower.
I believe that the Associated wing is the same concept, except since their front shocks mount behind the tower, the wing is bolted in front of the tower.
10-01-2020, 12:23 PM
#22
Now that I need to order servo arms for it, I’m going to order some wings t the same time to experiment with.
10-03-2020, 11:14 AM
#23
Got the front wings Razor suggested on order, probably going to try and mount it with just the front body mount first, might as well try the KISS method to start. Also ordered a couple different Losi servo arms to try and some lead, all from Horizon, since everything was discounted right now!
10-05-2020, 05:47 PM
#24
Well, I’m close to being ready
These showed up today..
And the wing is mounted for now, still gotta try to see which servo arm will work better
These showed up today..
And the wing is mounted for now, still gotta try to see which servo arm will work better
10-05-2020, 07:28 PM
#25
Just FYI, those TLR servo horns use an SAE threaded ballstud, though you could probably jam a 2mm in there.
10-05-2020, 08:50 PM
#26
All that said, here’s how it looks now,
I may go and test it after work tomorrow, there’s a couple schools near by with well lit lots since it’ll be dark by the time I’m done working any more.
10-07-2020, 02:06 PM
#27
First Rip
This thing, after getting some more trigger time with it, it’s......it’s just NASTY
This thing, after getting some more trigger time with it, it’s......it’s just NASTY
Last edited by BJoe; 10-07-2020 at 02:39 PM.
10-07-2020, 06:07 PM
#28
Tech Adept
iTrader: (15)
Very cool!
Brings back memories. I built a rustler into a street car. Need to get it back out one of these days. Ran 3s & 4s with a lrp 550 motor. It hauled. Was trying to keep up with a buddies XO1. He was faster cause of 4wd but the rustler held its own. My biggest roadblock was braking. It just wanted to spin when I hit the brakes unless they were turned down so much they hardly worked. Ended up putting a gyro receiver in it. Worked great.
pic of the car next to the original rustler body.
Brings back memories. I built a rustler into a street car. Need to get it back out one of these days. Ran 3s & 4s with a lrp 550 motor. It hauled. Was trying to keep up with a buddies XO1. He was faster cause of 4wd but the rustler held its own. My biggest roadblock was braking. It just wanted to spin when I hit the brakes unless they were turned down so much they hardly worked. Ended up putting a gyro receiver in it. Worked great.
pic of the car next to the original rustler body.
10-07-2020, 08:55 PM
#29
That’s neat! I haven’t tried a gyro or stablized Rx, just an old TQ Link Rx in it so far.
10-12-2020, 08:30 AM
#30
Tech Initiate
To get weight as far forward and low as possible and be very secure, you could get a 3-4mm brass plate and cut/drill it to fit between the front bumper and chassis/ bulkhead... dropping the bumper down a little won't hurt you much since your running on-road and brass is pretty easy to cut/drill... Also to help a little with braking/ steering you can limit the uptravel of your shocks... limiting the front will give you more steering on throttle and limiting the rear will help with braking.... be careful cause limiting too much will have the opposite effect. Also while working with the shocks changing the oils will effect braking/ acceleration... heavier oils will slow down the weight transfer and lighter will speed it up,,, and with this too heavy will not allow the shocks to handle the bumps well and too light will allow the springs to "popo stick" over bumps...