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Old 04-15-2006, 09:13 PM   #46
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Some comments to you guys about the ST-R:

Shock Oil - 600 to 700wt in front & rear...I think 800wt is a bit much.
Diffs - 5 to 7,000 in front, 20 to 30,000 in center(20 for .21, 30 for .28 or bigger) and 3 to 5,000 in rear.
Ride height - Front bones level, Rear bones slightly above level.
Use Pavidas' shock and camber link positions, but I do like running the outside on the front arm/hub.

Comment on the notchy diffs: Some Conical(ring) gears may have clearance issuses with the height of the inside part (under where the larger diff gear rides). I have built 4 kits now, one for myself and 3 for customers and I have had problems with 3 of the 4. Options: Build it normal and run it in(1 to 3 tanks). However, change the oil, inspect the gears and rebuild. Should be good to go. Or . . . use 2 diff gaskets and follow previous comments...

I think the ST-R has great potential . . . we just had a trophy race here at out shop and I set TQ 2 of the 3 rounds with a 13 5:18 and 13 5:16 with my Hybrid Kyosho Truggy. I built the ST-R and raced it the next weekend (same layout exactly) and TQ'd with a 13 5:08.... End of story.
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Old 04-16-2006, 10:39 AM   #47
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what about this for shock and diff setup

front 7
center 20
rear 2

shocks

50 frnt
60 rear

will that be good? i watched a str this past weekend with 7,10,3 but it looked like it needed more rotation center off so i figured i needed to drop it to 2.

he also had
40 frnt shocks
and 70 rear shocks looked smooth on the track
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:19 PM   #48
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I just got done building mine. All I had was Losi oil 40wt, is that going to be thick enough?
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:43 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultraspeed84
what about this for shock and diff setup

front 7
center 20
rear 2

shocks

50 frnt
60 rear

will that be good? i watched a str this past weekend with 7,10,3 but it looked like it needed more rotation center off so i figured i needed to drop it to 2.

he also had
40 frnt shocks
and 70 rear shocks looked smooth on the track

Sounds ok . . remember, setup is not a "one suits all" kind of thing. Different tracks may require changes, also to suit different drivers as well.

2 in the rear sounds ok . . . or maybe change rear toe? raise rear ride height? rear wheelbase?
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:45 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 Xtreme R/C
I just got done building mine. All I had was Losi oil 40wt, is that going to be thick enough?
Probably not....You'll want at least 50wt.

Start where your are at and see how it goes. If it feels too soft or bottoms out too much, then go up on the oil weight.
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Old 04-17-2006, 06:14 PM   #51
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Quote:
macnkitty. why are bow ties more appealing over the crimefighters. i heard the crime fighters have more side bite? i am new to 1/8 and or truggies as i now have purchased a st-r and starting to build.
sorry for the misunderstanding. i meant that the crime fighters are more preferrable over the bow ties. you are right about the CF's having more side bite. however, the bow ties are better for harder packed, blue groove surfaces, while the CF's are better suited for medium to hard packed surfaces with a little loose dirt on top.
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Old 01-13-2007, 10:50 PM   #52
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Im in the process of building my STR & was wondering if anyone had some helpful hints since I already have a few suggestions on certain areas. last time I built a truck was like 3 years ago & so far Im 6 hours in & I just finished installing the motor & pipe. will try to post some findings & pics soon
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Old 01-19-2007, 10:21 PM   #53
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Default stripped servo gear

Just got a used st-r in great condition, but I keep stripping my servo gear. I've stripped the one plastic gear in the servo 4 different times. The servo is a ko propo 2144 and i've never had a problem with it on my revo. I even stripped a newer version of the servo 2366 (i think). I thought the servo saver was too tight but i've backed it out (or up) all the way. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm gonna try and rebuild the steering rack per the instructions but i don't see anything visibly wrong with it. If this still doesn't work can i just tighten the servo saver down and put a servo saver horn instead of the stock aluminum arm? Can anyone recommend one that isn't too soft that will cause the car to push or too hard it'll strip more gears?

Thanks in advance.

Ryan
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Old 01-20-2007, 06:37 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rai13
Just got a used st-r in great condition, but I keep stripping my servo gear. I've stripped the one plastic gear in the servo 4 different times. The servo is a ko propo 2144 and i've never had a problem with it on my revo. I even stripped a newer version of the servo 2366 (i think). I thought the servo saver was too tight but i've backed it out (or up) all the way. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm gonna try and rebuild the steering rack per the instructions but i don't see anything visibly wrong with it. If this still doesn't work can i just tighten the servo saver down and put a servo saver horn instead of the stock aluminum arm? Can anyone recommend one that isn't too soft that will cause the car to push or too hard it'll strip more gears?

Thanks in advance.

Ryan
I spoke to a couple of drivers & they had the same problem when using an aluminum horn
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Old 01-20-2007, 09:03 AM   #55
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That's interesting because I stripped out a Hitec S-5925 and a JR DS-8450 but the Futaba S-9351 just keeps going and going without a single problem race after race using an aluminum horn. Go figure.

BTW: JR repaired their servo for free, Hitec charged $15 plus $7 shipping.
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Old 01-20-2007, 09:19 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee
That's interesting because I stripped out a Hitec S-5925 and a JR DS-8450 but the Futaba S-9351 just keeps going and going without a single problem race after race using an aluminum horn. Go figure.

BTW: JR repaired their servo for free, Hitec charged $15 plus $7 shipping.
that's because it's a futuba
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