KYOSHO INFERNO MP10e
#241

Gearing is the same unless you’re running those new sexy gear ratios but that’s just changing the ring gear and bevel.. MP9/10 still run much the same dna. Much cheaper tooling costs. Some would argue the TKI3 was pretty much perfect - Boots and Tebo certainly struggled letting go, namely the steering knuckles.
#243
Super Moderator

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Join Date: May 2005
Location: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
Posts: 5,128
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3d printed a transponder mount.. i know most put them in reciever box but i like to see if lamp is on at a quick glance
#245
Super Moderator

iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
Posts: 5,128
Trader Rating: 62 (100%+)

Got the transponder mounts made in black but can do neon yellow. See thru yellow. Orange. Green. Grey. White. Purple. Also transponder cases if you have bad wires to repair.



#246
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)

So I have been testing mp9 c and d blocks on my mp10tki2 absolutely dialed on a low to med grip ....I drilled the mp9 inserts for the bigger suspension pin, shorter drive shafts (I think mp9) and added rear +1mm hubs ......I'm not saying anything is wrong with the mp10 if the track has decent traction I absolutely love the car but med to loose I was losing drive out of the corners and noticed that the AE guys and the Mugen guys were running LRC or at least narrowed rear pivot blocks, so that's where I got the idea . if you want to add another tuning option to your set up I can say it works and works really well on med to loose tracks I reached out to tworks and suggested the make narrow pivot blocks for the mp10 so hopefully maybe they'll look into it .... I let buggy brent (YouTuber) drive my car also so you all can reach out to him if you like and ask him his thoughts
#248
Tech Rookie

#249
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)

Also, what is your technique for finding these seemingly odd-ball parts to try on the MP10? I didn't even know plastic gears existed for these vehicles! Experience? Tips-n-tricks from a fellow racer/track-mate?
#250
Tech Rookie

Interesting. What kind of track conditions? I fear little rocks, which are quite prevalent at my local track, would destroy the plastic gears.
Also, what is your technique for finding these seemingly odd-ball parts to try on the MP10? I didn't even know plastic gears existed for these vehicles! Experience? Tips-n-tricks from a fellow racer/track-mate?
Also, what is your technique for finding these seemingly odd-ball parts to try on the MP10? I didn't even know plastic gears existed for these vehicles! Experience? Tips-n-tricks from a fellow racer/track-mate?
#251
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)

Is this the 'B' Block? Anyone think Kyosho could have designed it better? This is a brand new, replacement block, which is already taking a beating. The photo is after one day of practice.
This is on my MP10e, I have also replaced the chassis, which was long overdue. I needed to also replace the block, a $25 part, because the previous one was worn so thin and sharp that the plastic inserts were being prematurely worn as well. IMHO, Kyosho could have set this block up a little higher for more protection, similarly to the 'C' block on the rear. Sure the angle of the kick-up would be affected and/or not as drastic, but this isn't good. I may just have to learn to drive with harder springs to help minimize this crap, or put some bump-stops/travel limiters on the shock pivots. I don't consider the 'B' Block as a wearable item, but apparently it is. Any tips and tricks to minimize this damage?
This is on my MP10e, I have also replaced the chassis, which was long overdue. I needed to also replace the block, a $25 part, because the previous one was worn so thin and sharp that the plastic inserts were being prematurely worn as well. IMHO, Kyosho could have set this block up a little higher for more protection, similarly to the 'C' block on the rear. Sure the angle of the kick-up would be affected and/or not as drastic, but this isn't good. I may just have to learn to drive with harder springs to help minimize this crap, or put some bump-stops/travel limiters on the shock pivots. I don't consider the 'B' Block as a wearable item, but apparently it is. Any tips and tricks to minimize this damage?

Last edited by Ackchyually; 01-28-2022 at 01:11 PM.
#252
Tech Regular

Is this the 'B' Block? Anyone think Kyosho could have designed it better? This is a brand new, replacement block, which is already taking a beating. The photo is after one day of practice.
This is on my MP10e, I have also replaced the chassis, which was long overdue. I needed to also replace the block, a $25 part, because the previous one was worn so thin and sharp that the plastic inserts were being prematurely worn as well. IMHO, Kyosho could have set this block up a little higher for more protection, similarly to the 'C' block on the rear. Sure the angle of the kick-up would be affected and/or not as drastic, but this isn't good. I may just have to learn to drive with harder springs to help minimize this crap, or put some bump-stops/travel limiters on the shock pivots. I don't consider the 'B' Block as a wearable item, but apparently it is. Any tips and tricks to minimize this damage?

This is on my MP10e, I have also replaced the chassis, which was long overdue. I needed to also replace the block, a $25 part, because the previous one was worn so thin and sharp that the plastic inserts were being prematurely worn as well. IMHO, Kyosho could have set this block up a little higher for more protection, similarly to the 'C' block on the rear. Sure the angle of the kick-up would be affected and/or not as drastic, but this isn't good. I may just have to learn to drive with harder springs to help minimize this crap, or put some bump-stops/travel limiters on the shock pivots. I don't consider the 'B' Block as a wearable item, but apparently it is. Any tips and tricks to minimize this damage?

B block. front to rear (ABCD)
I find the blocks ok and not that different to the other makes. I don't think you'll see Kyosho raising the block as that will in turn affect kickup.
To minimise bottoming I'd look at:
Thornhill shock cushions
MIP bypass valves
Increase droop and/or go inner hole on arm which gives the same travel as the TKI2 without spending cash
thicker shock oil
increase ride height
#253
Tech Initiate

I was into this hobby as a kid now getting back into with my kids now, we have the mp9e with the mamba monster and 1512 2650kv brushless battery is lectron pro 4s 5200. When we purchased this we were away and just went to a local hobby store and asked the guy for his top line kit and this is what he sold us. The buggie is super quick we do not race we simply just do speed runs and love to build them. could someone tell me what motor ecs to buy for fastest speed runs for mp10e as well as the battery's fortunately money is not a factor here so please dont be shy lol
#254
Tech Initiate

2nd attempt to post this. So i was into this hobby big when i was kid and now getting my kids into it we have a MP9e we bought it 2 years ago while away at a local hobby shop we basically walked in and asked for his best kit and best ecs motor combo which was mamba monster 1512 2650kv and 4s 5200mah lectron pro (this i just bought because i did not store battery right) this buggie is super quick kids love it never clocked it though. so we are going to buy the mp10e now any recommendations for motor ecs and battery's for top speed as we just do speed runs up and down our block fortunately money is no factor so don't be shy
Last edited by Fibergod; 02-02-2022 at 06:43 AM. Reason: added
#255
Tech Initiate

why dont i see my post does anyone see my question