Matty A

I noticed from the picture you’re running the 2.0 wheel hubs at the rear (and front??) and gone with purple front red rear. What do you find that gives you over stock?

FLracer

Just got my Mp10e body back from paint. Gotta get her mounted up.






Big thanks to Larry Genova @ KustomRCGraphics

FLracer

Ackchyually

iTrader: (7)

I'm not J.Whiting, but the double-wide hubs increase track width, increasing rear traction. Kyosho also makes a narrow hub, that brings in the wheels a whopping 1mm. Not sure if it would even make a difference except on a high-speed, high-bite, and smooth track.

Depending on your track conditions and what you want the car to do. For example, I run DARK BLUE 70mm (1.5mm) springs on front and LIGHT BLUE 84mm (1.4mm) on the rear. I chose this because the MP10e is a boat anchor, and I needed to ensure weight transfer to the rear wheels as well has handle large jumps and whoops. The car handles quite well on a track that is rough, hard-pack, and technical with big jumps. I'm even thinking about going a little bit firmer in the rear as well. I am not a fan of the RED 70mm (1.5mm) springs. In my opinion, they require too much preload, to achieve my desired front ride height, and take the spring out of the sweet spot.

Matty A

Your view of springs isn’t quite right. A linear spring (most rc springs and certainly the Kyosho 1/8 springs) have no sweet spot, the force they apply between say 20%-80% of unloaded length is linear kgs/cm - Hookes says so. A stiffer spring in the rear will reduce weight transfer to the rear if that’s your goal. According to Kyosho the light blue you’ve fitted is softer than the purple stock spring. A stiffer spring up front does very little for jumps. Dampers do most of the work. A stiffer spring also has less force in rebound (suspension extending from ride height) and therefore is slower reacting to holes than a softer spring with preload. The worst thing you can do for handling is to stiffen springs on a bumpy/rough track. General rule for Motorsport toy cars or 1:1 soft spring = more mechanical grip than a stiff spring

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...ave-less-grip/

João Figueiredo buggys below from last weekend’s races. Plenty of preload and that dude races for money / rc glory so he’s putting the fastest package together after both he and Reno test test and test.

rkhess

iTrader: (54)

So I have been testing mp9 c and d blocks on my mp10tki2 absolutely dialed on a low to med grip ....I drilled the mp9 inserts for the bigger suspension pin, shorter drive shafts (I think mp9) and added rear +1mm hubs ......I'm not saying anything is wrong with the mp10 if the track has decent traction I absolutely love the car but med to loose I was losing drive out of the corners and noticed that the AE guys and the Mugen guys were running LRC or at least narrowed rear pivot blocks, so that's where I got the idea . if you want to add another tuning option to your set up I can say it works and works really well on med to loose tracks I reached out to tworks and suggested the make narrow pivot blocks for the mp10 so hopefully maybe they'll look into it .... I let buggy brent (YouTuber) drive my car also so you all can reach out to him if you like and ask him his thoughts

Matty A

Nice. I suppose an alternative could be to bolt on the entire rear bulkhead of an mp9 for those with a few old spares lying around. I wonder when a high grip / low grip option will come out like they do with some 1/10.

rkhess

iTrader: (54)

I'm not 100% but I think you would have to change gearing also That's one thing I love about the MP10 over the 9 is the punch and definitely noticed it with this setup change I could drive hard out of the corners It was noticeable and other people were noticing

Ackchyually

iTrader: (7)

It may not be...but the DARK BLUE 70mm (1.5mm) springs up front, plus inner hole on the arm, work well for me on the MP10e, so IDK?

My goal was to numb the front end, but keep it tolerable due to the heaviness of the MP10 on the front, let's say, compared to the MP10 nitro, which I run the softer, LIGHT BLUE 70mm (1.4mm) springs up front, plus the outer hole on the arm. For now, I have PLENTY of steering available, but for the MP10e, I can try the softer, RED 70mm (1.5mm) springs again, or even maybe the LIGHT BLUE 70mm, but I feel she'll be nosing hard. Hard to tell from Joad's picture, due to similar colors, but those could be the longer, ORANGE 78mm (1.5mm) springs up front. Those are near-identical to the GRAY 70mm (1.4mm) springs, which are somewhat stiff, and only 10% less stiff than the DARK BLUES I'm running. This is all based on the theoretical spring rate values based on number of coils and wire size.

I do know this, however: Kyosho's actual spring rates are not what they seem, and one cannot simply go by the colors alone. There are many redundant springs in the new/old lineup, and actual compression values don't necessarily equate to the theoretical spring rates.

Matty A

Gearing is the same unless you’re running those new sexy gear ratios but that’s just changing the ring gear and bevel.. MP9/10 still run much the same dna. Much cheaper tooling costs. Some would argue the TKI3 was pretty much perfect - Boots and Tebo certainly struggled letting go, namely the steering knuckles.

Matty A

If whatever spring you use works then bonus. Light blue was all the rage then grey now red. Pushing two springs together the one that compresses more is softer. You shouldn’t however do that with springs of different lengths nor compare the colors of springs of different lengths. Kyosho went simplified because a lot of the springs is just a shade or so from vanilla. The manufacturer of the springs probably told Kyosho to piss off because the productions runs are too small.

J Whiting I recall made a comprehensive sheet for the spring rates at a given compressed amount.

stanleyw808

Hello rhesus,

I'm assuming that Your Rear Track Width is narrower than it should be, since MP10 arm is 2.5mm shorter than MP9 arm. I might be wrong and apology if my assumption is wrong. I was helping my Friend to calm down the rear end oh His MP10 and opting to use complete MP9 Rear end. It was better for Him.

Cheers..

Ackchyually

iTrader: (7)

The Velcro battery straps are getting worn out on my MP10e, and one actually snapped in half, caused by wear caused by the edge/corner of the hard-pack. Anyone replace these yet, perhaps with something OTHER than the Kyoshos, which are over-priced, IMO?

AMain is loaded with options and possible alternatives, but many of them do not have dimensions listed. The MP10e straps are 20mm x 240mm (about 0.75" x 9"). I'd settle for a shorter strap and between 18-20mm in width (as the opening for the strap in the holder is only 23mm wide), but even finding that seems to be particularly difficult.

The best options seem to be:

• MST MXS-130046, 16x210mm @ $4.99 per 2-pack
• Redcat RER11385, Amain is checking on the size @ $6.99 per 2-pack
• Scorpion SCP-LKSTRAP, Amain is checking on the size @ $5.99 per 3-pack <<< AMain reports these are only 5.5" long amd 1" wide--nope!
• CEN CEGCD0421, 20x250mm (perfect width, but a little too long) @ $4.49 per 2-pack
• Team Blacksheep TBS-ETHIXSTRAP, 16x250mm (not ideal width, and a little too long) @ $5.99 per 2-pack
• Ruddog RDGRP-0179, unknown dimensions @ $4.99 per 2-pack
• Scorpion SCP-LKSTRAPM (20x230mm) @ $5.69 per 3-pack <<< These look to be a PERFECT alternative. Glad Scorpion's website lists the dimensions!

FLracer

First race in the Ebuggy.. first race for me IN an Ebuggy.

Car is sweet. … running the Tekin 1900kv … barely getting into the throttle….qaulified 5 …. Finished 7. Think there were like 19 electric buggy entries… fun day Different experience coming from nitro…Weird for me to drive and not hear the motor when you get in the throttle… lol

rkhess

iTrader: (54)

Actually u can get pretty close to original rear track width with the included bushings and wide hexes