Faster Stampede?
03-17-2006, 06:32 PM
#1
Faster Stampede?
okay so right now ive got ball bearings all around, an LRP F1 super reverse 12t edition, reedy plutonium 12t x2. and i believe i have it geared stock. i use an 8.4v battery, which is jsut on the top end of my esc's limit, but i have it cooled via' roofscoop... my question is is there anything else i could put in to increase the top end?
03-17-2006, 07:26 PM
#2
you might need to change ur esc...but lipo batteries will give uber power
03-17-2006, 08:47 PM
#3
so an 8.4v lipo would be a problem? maybe a 7.2?? whats wrong with the esc?? heat is no problem at all.. the motor and esc are both heatpipe cooled and hardly even get warm after 3 7.2 batteries go through em.. so heat is no problem... if need be i can switch back to water cooling.
03-18-2006, 05:03 AM
#4
regear, regear, regear..... with the stock gearing it takes alot out your set-up to get the truck up and rolling, try smaller pinions until you find the "sweeet spot" and then with your set-up you will be maximized, unless you want to put your pede' on a diet, removing as much weight as possible.....
Li-poly packs won't give you more power, 7 volts is 7 volts it doesn't matter how it gets there.... however they will make your truck faster because they are lighter and the higher capasity will give you longer runtimes....
Without reducing weight and maximizing your gearing you will need to upgrade your electronics and use a faster motor to go faster top-end......
Li-poly packs won't give you more power, 7 volts is 7 volts it doesn't matter how it gets there.... however they will make your truck faster because they are lighter and the higher capasity will give you longer runtimes....
Without reducing weight and maximizing your gearing you will need to upgrade your electronics and use a faster motor to go faster top-end......
03-18-2006, 10:59 AM
#5
would redoing the wires with say 14ga and putting deans connectors, in addition to soldering the motor wires on do anything? it is a tad hefty due to all the copper tubing :/... how slow would the pede take off with a 18 pinion on a 87 spur? maybe a 16/87?
03-18-2006, 04:14 PM
#6
Do the hardwiring and deans with the stock wires if they are in decent shape.. this will reduce weight slightly...
Going from a 20T (stock motor) to a 12t i would personally drop 4-5 teeth off of the pinion and possibly even go 3 teeth up on the spur....
Going from a 20T (stock motor) to a 12t i would personally drop 4-5 teeth off of the pinion and possibly even go 3 teeth up on the spur....
03-18-2006, 08:43 PM
#7
should i be THAT concerned about weight? id think it of myself to be a bit hypocritical to switch to a lighter connector when i got a 1/2 pound copper cooling system on it. jsut a question.. :P ...
03-18-2006, 09:43 PM
#8
u can go brushless...and get a li-po pack its MUCH better and u will get more power from the 3300's or w/e ur running now....4800vswatu got now man ide go 4800 and u get more run time
03-18-2006, 11:17 PM
#9
how long do brushes usually last btw?
03-19-2006, 05:29 AM
#10
OK reread my post above, maximizing your gearing is the only thing left besides reducing weight that you can get more top end speed out of your truck....... ditch the cooling system, trust me the extra 1/2 pound is doing more harm than the extra cooling is doing good.....
Also chances are you also need a rebuild on your motor, cause overgearing tears up brushes and commutators.......
Also chances are you also need a rebuild on your motor, cause overgearing tears up brushes and commutators.......
03-19-2006, 10:52 AM
#11
okay so what ill be doing is-
-buying an 85t spur
-buying an 18t pinion
-no more cooling system
-switch standard connectors for deans
-direct solder to engine
how damaged would the engine be? again how do you know when you have to replace brushes?
-buying an 85t spur
-buying an 18t pinion
-no more cooling system
-switch standard connectors for deans
-direct solder to engine
how damaged would the engine be? again how do you know when you have to replace brushes?
03-19-2006, 11:12 AM
#12
how many runs do you have on your motor? you might have to change more then the brushes, might have to cut the comm on the armature. some people dont cut the comm all the time when they put new brushes on there and some do. first try cleaning out the armature, and can to see maybe you have a twig or something inthere. if you go brushless i think you might need to get stronger tranny gears but not sure, dont quote me on that. brushless can last for awhile, and lost longer then regular batteries. i think about 30 mins give or take. you would need a special charger also like a super brain 977 or a duratrax ice so you can charge the batteries.
03-19-2006, 02:47 PM
#13
i know my motor only by the external.. any good guides on what exactly each part is and how to even take it apart.. i might be considering a new motor.. any reccomendations? maybe a trinity cobalt?
what exactly does double/single/or triple wound mean? right now i got a double wound 12t reedy Ti
what exactly does double/single/or triple wound mean? right now i got a double wound 12t reedy Ti
03-19-2006, 02:48 PM
#14
if i had the cash i would get a E maxx and put dual brushless in it...or any kind of truckwith a brushless
03-19-2006, 05:58 PM
#15
if your going mod motor...go for the orion v2