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buy used? or just go new?

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buy used? or just go new?

Old 03-18-2020, 06:00 PM
  #16  
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"When looking at used cars online, the first thing I look for is that the shock bleed caps are all facing outwards."
A little off subject but I have never bled my shocks on the car? Seems like a messy way to do that and I face mine to the inside so they dont get dirt in the screw head when i roll over!

Back on subject
I look for overall wear and tear - a great example is the outdrives and axles - it shows how much the car has been used and is one of the more costly maintenance items to replace. You will see the outdrives cupped and the pins on the axles worn down. Some wear is to be expected but excessive should be replaced.

Agree with others on body condition, general cleanliness, bearing condition, differential condition are all factors as well.

For carpet I would not get anything older then a associated b6 or losi 4.0. And get the cleanest carpet version of those cars as sway bars, gear diffs, and other setup items specifically will just add more cost then buying the right used car.

Personal opinion - bashers are for bashing - your race rig should stay on the track. A 2wd buggy setup for carpet will be useless in the backyard. Save your gold pan for that.

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Old 03-18-2020, 08:21 PM
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Truth be told cleanliness that was just mentioned above is a HUGE thing for me. I’ve clicked off so many vehicles on this site because are to lazy to even clean their cars before selling.
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Old 03-18-2020, 09:24 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by tomkatn View Post
What all type of vehicles does your local stock novice class run? is it specified, or is it a mixture of vehicles?
Itís a mixed bag for novice. Iíd prob run that and maybe a stock 1/10 2wd buggy
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Old 03-18-2020, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
Truth be told cleanliness that was just mentioned above is a HUGE thing for me. Iíve clicked off so many vehicles on this site because are to lazy to even clean their cars before selling.
i can def see this. If itís too hard to clean off itís prob way to hard for general maintenance let alone proper repairs.
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Old 03-18-2020, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by krazo View Post
Itís a mixed bag for novice. Iíd prob run that and maybe a stock 1/10 2wd buggy
I ask, this because of your comment about 'putting truck tires on a buggy and setting it up for bashing in the backyard', and then put it back together as a proper buggy to race Ö

For background on me so you know where I am coming from, I am a racer, have been for 45+ years, these toy cars to full size sprint cars and most everything in-between, and off and on through the last 30 yrs with RC racing Ö I have never ran any RC vehicle/car anywhere else other than on a racetrack, and never had any interest in what is referred to as 'bashing' or just driving it around a yard or gravel pit Ö IMHO, and with all due respect, if they allow trucks in your novice class, I would buy a truck to run the dual purposes you intend, backyard bashing and in the novice class, they are more meant for both situations than a properly set up buggy (suitable for racing) would be Ö I see some older 5 series trucks going cheap these days also Ö may not be a popular point of view here, but JMHO Ö as always ...
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Old 03-19-2020, 07:07 AM
  #21  
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Kit: New. Putting it together yourself will teach you so much about a car. Plus, you don't have to worry about what was put together wrong, set incorrectly, or hacked up. Every car listed as "only run once" is a big old lie.

Motor, Batteries, Servos: New. These are long term consumables. Like the car, you don't really know what abuse they went through. Doesn't matter if a motor was run once if they ran it at 240 degrees for ten minutes. Batteries charged at 2 or 3C give up their cycles way faster than 1C. Servos can be set without proper endpoints and have their gears chewed up.

TX/Rx, Esc, Transponder, Charger: Used is fine. With some exceptions, these either work or they don't. Look them over to ensure they were kept stock, have appropriate sized wiring, and look like they have been well cared for. Note that stickers can be used to cover up a lot... Always be suspicious of items sold covered in stickers and wraps.
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Old 03-19-2020, 04:52 PM
  #22  
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I would only buy used from a trusted source.if not go with new and you wont have any suprises..
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Old 03-20-2020, 06:14 AM
  #23  
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I've bought plenty of used cars, from here and face to face locally, on and off road cars. To me, cleanliness is key. If you can't see through the dirt and debris, you can't see if there's anything amiss. If you buy locally, you know how things were treated as you can see how the person drives and does or doesn't take care of their stuff. Ignore certain consumables, stickers, hardware, bodies, shock and diff oil as delivered, etc, as you should really commit to doing a new baseline for YOUR knowledge of what's there and to confirm that you got what you paid for. If you're getting a full turn key, just add RX and battery.....well, that's more of a crap shoot unless you see it drive before you buy it.

For me, for a newly acquired USED car, it's ALWAYS a complete tear down, cleaning, checking for warpage on hard parts, and reassembly as per the manual. You would be amazed at the number of flat out WRONG screws in the WRONG holes you'll find. Never mind a mix of SAE and metric screws in the SAME car, often on the same part (still baffles me). Not to mention that often the heads are rounded out almost to the point that they need screw extractors. Kit screws are NOT the highest quality, and often won't stand more than a few in/out cycles at most. Especially true of thread in soft plastic parts, like shock mount locations, etc, where the screw is in/out all the time for set up and maintenance. Inspect ALL the holes in the plastics and be prepared to order replacements.

ME? I ALWAYS replace ALL of the screws in a used car with new ones, but then again I order from McMaster Carr in bulk. You can get boxes of 100 often for the price of a bag of 10 "insert name of RC brand here" screws. That should give you an idea of the insane mark up on fasteners! IF you just have to have RC screws, the ProTek branded ones from Amain are, in fact, high-ish end screws without going to crazytown and paying outlandish prices (it's the same screw line that I get in bulk, WAY better screws than any kit screw I've EVER seen).

Find out what the 'high breakage' parts are for whatever you want to buy, those are almost certainly things to have ordered and on hand for a tear down/rebuild. Hate to have to leave a suspension arm off because mid-rebuild you discovered that the shock mount bolt is only holding on by 1/2 a thread or the camber link ball stud hole that you want to use is already stripped out and that's why it's in the other hole!
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Old 03-23-2020, 02:39 PM
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This may just be my opinion, but I would bash with the RC10 and save the newer buggy for the track. The surfaces are just too different.

As for used, I liked it as a beginner being able to buy a used rig off of someone local who had set up the car for that track (or a similar one), taking much of the guess work out of tuning. The downside is that the car is already outdated and will soon lose parts support, but it's otherwise an inexpensive way to get a car that's at least as competitive as a newcomer is.
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Old 03-24-2020, 12:22 AM
  #25  
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I’ve bought all my race rigs used, main reason is I’m not competitive or dedicated enough to justify the cost of new. Always took my time, bought from reputable racers, either local or online. You can easily get a rig for less than 50% of price new including quality electronics. Bear in mind sponsored drivers have heavy discounts and are sometimes happy to quickly get their cash back.

Over time, you can buy more rigs and reduce downtime. Which quickly becomes a must. Hence confirming an earlier comment that this will not be your last purchase. However, buying used is a lot of work. I would argue it’s three times the work since you have to disassemble-clean-rebuild. It’s a game of patience.

For racing, look for a racing rig in good shape. For bashing, you can actually get a beater for cheap. Some of my best rigs were beaters with budget electronics in there. You can also post what you are looking for and be candide upfront stating your looking for cheap and won’t be too much demanding. With used rigs you also get side stuff (parts, screws, tires, bodies, wings...) that can prove valuable on the long run.

I of course always look at the chassis for a used rig. I don't care the pins since I can replace them for cheap. The outdrives are also a very good external indicator of wear and tear. I stick to one brand (Tekno) in order to reduce maintenance cost.

Hope that helps.
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Old 03-24-2020, 05:01 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
Truth be told cleanliness that was just mentioned above is a HUGE thing for me. Iíve clicked off so many vehicles on this site because are to lazy to even clean their cars before selling.
fully with you on this one... unless it's a really really rare vintage car, ie a true barn find, no way I'm every going to spend any money on a dirty car, be it RC or full-scale. Too much of a telltale...
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