Drbrake

What kind of track is this setup for??

thanks

Speed 8

iTrader: (1)

From my understanding a "split" piston has 2 sizes of holes. Where a regular piston is 2x1.7 or 2x1.8 a split piston could be 1x1.6 and a 1x1.7 hole in a single piston. Hope this helps. :-)

Drbrake

Where will you post you latest set up for indoor clay??

Thanks

Drbrake

Called Associated about 3 weeks ago about the 1.8 rear pistons.
They sent me a set of 1.7 thins. I think several 6.2 kits have the wrong (1.8) pistons in them

Pistol123

Roger I notice your latest high grip astro setup is only using the +1 insert on the rear hub but quite a low ride height (17mm) - is this to keep the rear roll centre low and generate more rear roll and less grip in tight corners?

norotr

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone know if the MIP Puck system for the B6.1 will fir the 6.2?

RogerM

Unfortunately I doubt I will ever get to race on indoor clay, there are absolutely zero 10th scale clay tracks in the UK, indoors or outdoors. Sorry I cannot help directly but if I were to go to the USA I would be starting on Dustin Evan's setups as I have great respect for his setup ability as well as his driving.

It is simply not viable to have indoor clay tracks in our country, it is VERY rare to find any permanent indoor facilities at all due to the costs of real estate and business rates. The two permanent indoor facilities I know of are both carpet tracks so they can be used for both on-road and buggies.
Outdoor clay for 10th tracks is impossible due to the weather, there are 8th tracks but they very quickly become far to rough for 10th cars.

RogerM

Well spotted, it is an anomaly and not something I would usually do, it came about from working with the Hall brothers a lot, Jamie in particular likes to have a car that he can handbrake into every corner and that needs a certain level of camber gain. Also the tracks we have been racing on have been very tight and technical due to having to be covered by only 6 marshals for social distancing reasons, more about the drivers stand than the track of course, which has resulted in us wanting a car that can be rotated hard.

Also the typical feedback is that people are finding that the B6.2 has a lot of steering and as such there has been a tendency to try and balance that by locking in the rear end rather than my normal more flowing setups where the rear follows the front in a natural arc.
Over the past few weeks I've been struggling along trying to help develop setups for those guys but I simply cannot drive quick enough that way, I'm far more old school than that. Also as clubs are getting used to how to manage the distancing the tracks are trending more towards the faster more open layouts, current Kidderminster layout is insanely fast for example!

There will be a setup available very soon that is a lot more conventional in that respect. I will go into the details once the sheet is available to discuss but essentially a higher axle height, longer rear link on the hub and increased roll stiffness on the front amongst other things.
Really finding a good understanding of the new car now, tracks being closed for 13 weeks didn't help.

4times

iTrader: (10)

Edit

Smoking motor..

Dumb question how do you transition from driving low grip to medium grip AstroTurf. Found my low grip driving techniques too for medium grip astro.

RogerM

Don't change the driving style, change the car.

As grip increases ...
Reduce rear toe,
Remove some washers from behind the steering rack ball stud,
Raise rear axle height (probably front axle height too),
Raise inner rear ball stud.

All these things move bias towards a freer rotating rear with less front end bite.

Also move the battery position forward as the grip goes up.

Drbrake

Thanks

Smoking motor..

I had a weird understeer issue at Broxtowe. You would go downhill and turn 90 degrees towards the main straight. I could turn correctly off power and going slow but it would understeer on power was losing 15ft on that corner as I couldn’t carry any speed.

I was using Rogers Telford setup. With new z4 wedges and pyramids.

I swapped the fronts for 1 run old yellow cut staggers and had too much steering.
The fast guys were using pryramids and worn cut staggers.

The car was good everywhere else except this one corner.


I was using a 7.0turn motor with 3degrees of boost and 8 degrees of turbo.
I put it in try at a1 racing which is like driving on ice.

RogerM

Yes the Schumacher cut stagger (yellow) gives WAY more front end than the z4 Wedge3, even the non-cut stagger is slightly more in some situations. This is what I say about the tyre balance front to rear being different between the brands.

In order of most front end biased to least it would be;
Schumacher
Ballistic Buggy
Proline
JC

This why us in the UK look at some of the US setups, especially for carpet and wonder how they drive them and the US guys think us Europeans all hate steering ;-)

For your specific issue it would depend on if you could stand more on-power steering in the other parts of the track too. If you could I would flatten the rear link a touch, probably raise the inboard rather than lower the outboard. That should give more on-power without effecting the off power / low speed feel much.
If you can't stand any more on-power steering around the rest of the track I suspect that you're overloading the front tyres in that one corner, guessing one of the fastest on the track? If that is the case you're going to have to change your line / driving style to prevent the overloading and resulting slip angle. You should be able to tell if is that as when you open the steering lock it will feel like it doesn't really respond until you are fairly low amount of lock.

Quietman

So coming from a laydown,that i could not get on with and not having a ae since a b2 picked up a 6.2,and yep got me enjoying racing,now couple of questions,,,,
When and where would you run the standard axels by this i mean not the +2 ones....