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AE B6.2D / B6.2 Thread

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Old 10-30-2020, 02:57 PM   -   Wikipost
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Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): What is the difference between 2 gears and 4 gears in the gear diff?
Please read these posts by Roger M. Maybe this has been answered but what are the little orings in diff do for tuning?
Please read these posts by Roger M.
Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M.

The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths

Kit +2 axles

73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts
75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts

Option 0 axles

73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts
75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts

Why would you want to change the driveshaft length?
It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle).
The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car.
Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement.

When would you want to change this?

Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas.
To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit.

On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks.
The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...)

What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms.
Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!)

The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners.

Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections.

Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall.

So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is.




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Old 03-12-2020, 08:25 AM
  #646  
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Originally Posted by waitwhat
Those are 2wd wheels with 4wd tires on Evans' car. I'm sure if that car had to go through a tech box the tires would deform enough to be deemed legal. I think you will be surprised with the way the 4wd tires change the car.
Its interesting this topic just came up. I have been having a major push issue, needing to wait for the car to turn - its painful! I have tried a few things but nothing has worked yet. Last night I ran 4wd fronts on the front of my b6.2 and it gave me back all my turn-in and steering that I wanted. Unfortunately I still had my battery all the way forward and I lost any rear traction I had and it was really difficult to drive.

Currently running the layback ... switch to the laydown and try to get more steering or try some 4wd tires on 2wd wheels and try and get the rear traction back?
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Old 03-12-2020, 09:12 AM
  #647  
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I've also been studying a lot of BKs tricks for running slicks on high traction quite a bit, He never really commented or explained what he was doing but pictures are worth a thousand words... I've noticed he tried plastidip as a bead seal, I'm assuming to try to stop the bead from ripping off the wheel? has anyone tried this? Another thing too that I noticed is what looks to be a regular buggy wheel and tire with the outer wall of the wheel bead removed... any more info on this too? It would be interesting to know more about these things.
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Old 03-12-2020, 10:40 AM
  #648  
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Everyone was running M3 soft Blockade rear tyres.
I run No drag brake
My max Brake force was set to 75% (100 and 87.5 was in drivable)
My neutral range or dead and was at the default I think 4%

Originally Posted by RogerM
How does your setup and tyres (inc tyre prep) compare with other drivers at your track?

How much drag brake are you running?
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Old 03-12-2020, 01:25 PM
  #649  
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Psionic-

Try Holeshots in M4. I use them on my "loose dirt" track (as does EVERYONE ELSE) and it hooks up well. The blockades most likely last longer, but I believe you will see better performance with the holeshots.

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Old 03-12-2020, 04:10 PM
  #650  
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Originally Posted by psionic001
Everyone was running M3 soft Blockade rear tyres.
I run No drag brake
My max Brake force was set to 75% (100 and 87.5 was in drivable)
My neutral range or dead and was at the default I think 4%
Are you actually running a B6.2? You should be running the B6.2D.
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Old 03-12-2020, 04:18 PM
  #651  
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Yep, corrected now. It's a B6.2D

Originally Posted by RazorRC
Are you actually running a B6.2? You should be running the B6.2D.
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Old 03-14-2020, 12:45 PM
  #652  
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Originally Posted by psionic001
Everyone was running M3 soft Blockade rear tyres.
I run No drag brake
My max Brake force was set to 75% (100 and 87.5 was in drivable)
My neutral range or dead and was at the default I think 4%
I race at an outdoor wet dirt track. Secret to racing in real off road is throttle control. You also dumb down or "feel lazy" the steering and response of the buggy to make it easy to drive in a low traction surface.
Tires I use are the M4 holeshots with open white foam inserts and M3 holeshots in front (sometimes ribs when it's recently watered down). Run the diff almost slipping and slipper clutch loose to avoid spinning your tires and loosing traction. You need a lot of roll in your car too. Play with throttle EXPO will help in spinning out in loose 180 degree turns and steering SPEED.
I have my neutral range at the highest 8% and drive freq at 16K I also play around with brake frequency (8K right now). Hope this helps.
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Old 03-14-2020, 02:23 PM
  #653  
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Legend! Thanks

I had some of them in a list and wasnít sure which to try. Iíll do one at a time and see how performance changes.

Originally Posted by Phillip F
I race at an outdoor wet dirt track. Secret to racing in real off road is throttle control. You also dumb down or "feel lazy" the steering and response of the buggy to make it easy to drive in a low traction surface.
Tires I use are the M4 holeshots with open white foam inserts and M3 holeshots in front (sometimes ribs when it's recently watered down). Run the diff almost slipping and slipper clutch loose to avoid spinning your tires and loosing traction. You need a lot of roll in your car too. Play with throttle EXPO will help in spinning out in loose 180 degree turns and steering SPEED.
I have my neutral range at the highest 8% and drive freq at 16K I also play around with brake frequency (8K right now). Hope this helps.
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Old 03-15-2020, 07:39 AM
  #654  
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Originally Posted by Jonnywachter
I've also been studying a lot of BKs tricks for running slicks on high traction quite a bit, He never really commented or explained what he was doing but pictures are worth a thousand words... I've noticed he tried plastidip as a bead seal, I'm assuming to try to stop the bead from ripping off the wheel? has anyone tried this? Another thing too that I noticed is what looks to be a regular buggy wheel and tire with the outer wall of the wheel bead removed... any more info on this too? It would be interesting to know more about these things.
the BK front wheel mod widens the tire footprint so the car is not as twitchy but it also increases steering through the corner
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Old 03-15-2020, 10:05 AM
  #655  
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Are there any aftermarket parts that I should get? Weak spot on the car?

Thanks
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Old 03-15-2020, 10:21 AM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by BigRed
Are there any aftermarket parts that I should get? Weak spot on the car?

Thanks
I've been told the steering cranks are weak. I'm waiting on the Exotek black/blue cranks to become available.
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Old 03-15-2020, 03:14 PM
  #657  
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Originally Posted by Jonnywachter
You don't understand the new arms are offset 2mm back, so to get the correct wheelbase you need to remove 2mm of material from the hub to get it back to the correct wheelbase.
The schelle aluminum hub is 2mm off either shim back or front of the hub. It was my first time to run my buggy today damn i really love better handle and corner speed.. Those who have schelle aluminum hub just buy the rear arm for B6D.2 the wheel base exactly same just shim 2mm front or rear no need to buy rear b6d.2 rear hub, rear hub pin, b6d.2 / B6d.2+2mm rear axle
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Old 03-15-2020, 03:41 PM
  #658  
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Struggled with my .2, traction med-high bite clay.. especially on power in the apex of corners but other places as well. I swapped back to my alum exotek hubs everything else the same and the car is a beast. I don't think I'll even waste the time to figure out the new hubs myself, but has anyone else dealt with similar and found a setup that would work as good or better on the new parts? Setup was box, then also tried a few spacer changes to change link length and tried a couple different heights in the hub adjustment.
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Old 03-15-2020, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e
Struggled with my .2, traction med-high bite clay.. especially on power in the apex of corners but other places as well. I swapped back to my alum exotek hubs everything else the same and the car is a beast. I don't think I'll even waste the time to figure out the new hubs myself, but has anyone else dealt with similar and found a setup that would work as good or better on the new parts? Setup was box, then also tried a few spacer changes to change link length and tried a couple different heights in the hub adjustment.
Running 2mm on top and on the side is the same as 3mm and B on the old hub. There should be no handling difference.
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Old 03-15-2020, 04:40 PM
  #660  
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I was considering trying out the VRP brand pistons after hearing a lot of good reviews on Amain, but are unsure if I should get 1.6mm all around, which it looks like they may recommend (going off their tuning guide). VRP doesn't sell a 1.8mm, but they do have a 1.7mm+1 which I'm assuming is the same thing, but thought I'd get some opinions here. And if I did buy them, would they really make that much of difference? I drive exclusively on gray carpet with mostly medium sized jumps if that helps. TIA!

Last edited by stephen.henry; 03-17-2020 at 01:59 PM.
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