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AE B6.2D / B6.2 Thread

10-30-2020, 02:57 PM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: AE B6.2D / B6.2 Thread

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Last edit by: Kraig

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

What is the difference between 2 gears and 4 gears in the gear diff?
Please read these posts by Roger M.

Maybe this has been answered but what are the little orings in diff do for tuning?
Please read these posts by Roger M.

Information on the rear axles and the different length dog bones from Roger M.

The 0 (option) and +2 (kit) axles are for using different length driveshafts with the different arm lengths

Kit +2 axles

73mm arms wih 67mm driveshafts
75mm arms with 69mm driveshafts

Option 0 axles

73mm arms with 65mm driveshafts
75mm arms with 67mm driveshafts

Why would you want to change the driveshaft length?
It is essentially to do with the fact that a drive joint will want to run straight under power and the position of that joint (the pin through the CVA joint into the axle).
The further that CVA joint pin is inboard of the lower hub hingepin (assuming you're running fairly typical outer link positions) the more bind you will generate in the suspension as the drive joint tried to straighten under power, this extra binding will 'stiffen' the suspension as it adds load on top of that from the weight transfer on the car.
Conversely the the nearer the CVA joint pin is to lower hub hinge pin the less bind and thus freer suspension movement.

When would you want to change this?

Basically on bumpy tracks, tracks with inconsistent grip or lower grip you want the suspension to be as free to move as possible so that you get the full benefit from the shock and roll centre tuning, also the car feels like it has more grip in the areas where you go on/off/on the gas.
To this end you will be running the longest possible dog bone you can for the arm length, hence why the +2 axles are in the kit.

On smooth super high grip tracks (EOS / CRC carpet for example) running a shorter dogbone will feel like it takes grip away from the rear as you get on power, aiding late corner rotation and reducing the on-power understeer that often plagues tight carpet tracks.
The only time I would run the 0 axles is with 67mm dogbones on 75mm arms and only then when I wish I could get let rear toe than the 1deg minimum we can get from the pills we have (actually I had custom pill made so I can get 0deg rear toe for those types of tracks but ...)

What are the handling differences between the 73 and 75mm arms.
Brief explanation from RogerM (thanks!)

The arm length effects the roll centre and more significantly the roll centre migration as the car rolls in the corners.

Shorter rear arms will encourage more tire loading so more grip as the car rolls, great for lower grip surfaces but on high grip surfaces they can stall the rotation mid corner costing corner speed. They can also make the car feel more reactive which is good when a low grip level makes the car feel less reactive so making it harder to place in technical sections.

Long rear arms the opposite, car will rotate more freely for more corner speed but won't generate as much side-bite so mid/late corner will be reduced. Make the car feel naturally lazier which is great on high grip surfaces as it makes the car easier to drive overall.

So the long Vs short rear arm is just like the flat Vs gullwing front arm, all about the grip level from the surface and how technical the track layout is.

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05-05-2022, 08:36 AM

#2746

mikeyscott

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RickSlick

How is this body attached? Don't see any physical body mounts.

Velcro down the sides like previous kits.

Speed 8 likes this.

05-05-2022, 07:30 PM

#2747

RickSlick

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Thanks guys...........

05-18-2022, 05:39 AM

#2748

mikeyscott

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Anyone installed B6.3 towers on their 6.2 / 6.2D?

Looking at retaining a car for wet (layback) and it'll either be my current 6.1 (converted to 6.2D) or my 6.3. Currently my 6.1/2 is the layback car.

05-18-2022, 08:52 AM

#2749

Alexv2024

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Yes I have basically all the .3 parts on my .2 other than the wide pivot. The towers are the easiest thing to swap probably, and the front tower is really nice with the new cover.

The only thing thats hard is either drilling the chassis for the .3 mount or the expensive part of buying a .3 chassis and servo mount. My .2 just has a stack of washers there.

05-19-2022, 02:12 AM

#2750

mikeyscott

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexv2024

For the steering update, all I did was purchase ASC91890 part. TBH I'm leaning more to selling a car atm with the B6.4 arriving as I have the B6.1/2D and B6.3 and D chassis. The B6.2 / 3 car I'll keep will be purely as a wet astro racing car etc. However with the cost of 2nd hand cars being cheap (B6.1) I'm inclinded to keep it for spares. Gearbox, and other items etc. We'll see...

05-19-2022, 04:40 AM

#2751

RogerM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexv2024

Personally I still use the older towers on the wet car as they allow for a more upright shock, especially in the rear, which helps in low grip.

05-19-2022, 04:53 AM

#2752

mikeyscott

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerM

Personally I still use the older towers on the wet car as they allow for a more upright shock, especially in the rear, which helps in low grip.

Interesting and many thanks, I've not had both towers off the cars and laid together for comparison. I noticed on some of the setups people put B6.1 wishbones on for wet / low grip too.

05-20-2022, 11:33 AM

#2753

jdearhart

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Are there any plastic diff gears for the b6 series gear diff? Looking for some weight savings!

05-20-2022, 01:30 PM

#2754

walter white

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I've never personally seen plastic gears for the B6 gear diff. you can just run 2 planet gears to save a bunch of weight. titanium screws will also save a little weight. Zombierace rc titanium screw set for Team Associated B6 gear diff

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdearhart

Are there any plastic diff gears for the b6 series gear diff? Looking for some weight savings!

05-20-2022, 08:20 PM

#2755

Shawn B

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerM

Personally I still use the older towers on the wet car as they allow for a more upright shock, especially in the rear, which helps in low grip.

Which older towers? Do you have the part number?

05-20-2022, 10:10 PM

#2756

Alexv2024

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn B

Which older towers? Do you have the part number?

The B6.1/2 towers have the same shock positions but there are short and tall towers. The .3 and .4 have the same tower, but it eliminates the outer most hole on the back tower and has them much closer together. The fronts are closer together on the .3 and .4 but eliminate the most inner hole. They are not commonly used, but in low grip situations like Roger pointed out can be useful on the back tower. No idea if the inner front hole is ever used. But I dont run on carpet/turf especially in crazy conditions.

RogerM likes this.

05-23-2022, 04:28 AM

#2757

RogerM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn B

Which older towers? Do you have the part number?

I use the B6.1 spec towers in the wet, tall one in the rear.
Really wish I'd kept an original B6 front tower as that would be even better but I didn't :'(

05-23-2022, 04:30 AM

#2758

RogerM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyscott

Interesting and many thanks, I've not had both towers off the cars and laid together for comparison. I noticed on some of the setups people put B6.1 wishbones on for wet / low grip too.

Pretty much all of us do Mikey, gives more forward driveshaft sweep in combination with the B6.2 hubs and the arm itself is more flexible. Double bonus for grip.
You can get the sweep by trimming 2mm off the B6.2 arms but the stiffness of the arm means it still doesn't generate enough grip on slick wet astro surfaces.

05-23-2022, 05:09 AM

#2759

Shawn B

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerM

I use the B6.1 spec towers in the wet, tall one in the rear.
Really wish I'd kept an original B6 front tower as that would be even better but I didn't :'(

I did keep them for very similar reasons,why I was wondering

05-01-2023, 02:44 PM

#2760

Smoking motor..

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Set up advice for grass tracks required. I have a b6.2 with willspeed front end and 75mm arms turn in on grass is great but any throttle input will make it swap ends which is ruining my abiltiy to drive consistantly.

I used this setup to start with

https://site.petitrc.com/setup/assoc...nster20200622/

I am buying a 6.2d chassis and 73mm arms to cure some of the issue. would I be best looking at a setup
like this to get started

https://site.petitrc.com/setup/assoc...haven20210530/

regards

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