Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

Domed caps are a must have. the cars do everything better with them

Pancar_GER

Hi all,

yesterday, I tried the 22x-4 for the first time. I had two problems:

1) does anyone also had problems by using the composite servo horn?
Ich used the horn as pointed out in the manual for my Sanwa servo and recognized that the servo horn is able to move under load. The screw was tight and the servo isn’t moving - it’s just the horn.
I don’t want to use the alu version, because the plastic horn will save my servo in case of a huge impact.

2) after a while one of the front wheel nuts came off. I used the original nuts with Schumacher wheels. Does anybody else had this problem too?

Thanks!

mes

​​​​​​Based on your user name I would assume that the 22X-4 is your first buggy. Congratulations on making the jump to off-road! Hardly anyone seems to use plastic servo horns anymore for the reasons you described. If you are using a quality servo, you don't need to worry about your gears too much. If not, you really should buy a quality servo.
All my buddies running TLR cars seem to use TLR wheels and have not had any issues yet. In general, I can highly recommend the 1up racing wheel nuts #80501. I bought mine at Tonisport, but they are currently out of stock.

TurnNBurn

Don’t know about the Schumacher wheels, but the mounting area on the front TLR 4WD wheels are inset slightly to have enough thread for the thin nuts to grab onto. If there isn’t much thread for that nut to catch on, that could be the cause of the problem. Also, don’t be afraid to crank on it a bit - they are serrated so that they can dig into the wheel a bit to help prevent backing out.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

I run Schumacher wheels and tires on carpet, and have not experienced the wheel nuts coming loose.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

We really don't change much on the setups, not as much as people think. If we posted setups every 2 weeks, then most of the new setups wouldn't even have any changes. March setups are plenty good still. My go to setup is from 2019...

The plastic horn will break/strip on a good hit. If you're horn doesn't fit from new, you probably put the wrong one on. We all run alum horns. If you buy good servos, the servos can take a lot.

For the wheel nuts, it shouldn't be an issue, not something we've seen much of. Usually, they just aren't tightened tight enough.

lowspark

iTrader: (7)

Sock caps are ordered !!!
Definitely a -2 seconds a lap quicker just for the bling factor.

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

For any indoor clay racing I would suggest trying Frank Roots club race setup with only changing the center diff weight to 300K. Man my wheeler has been great ever since I’ve put it on. Easy to drive and you cab push it when needed.

bighaus90

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, just got a 22X-4 as my first ever wheeler. New to gear diffs and was wondering what the maintenance looks like on them. How often are you changing fluids or doing full rebuilds?

Warrio17

Running factory setup, what droop length is optimal for off-road tracks. I cannot locate any information as to what the recommended setup is. Track- high grip, few moderately long jumps. several technical and high speed sections.

Thanks.

TRFHORNET

Hi i was just wondering does anyone run the 3.5mm shock conversion, and if so is it any better than the kit and what's the end result of using them?

thanks

AxiomJacob

iTrader: (27)

Look at Dakotahs 2020 Hobby Action setup. I did this one with 10k/500k/7k and have really enjoyed it.

AxiomJacob

iTrader: (27)

Empty and refill fluids every 3-4 weeks of racing.

TurnNBurn

All things being equal (piston, oil, spring, etc.), the 3.5’s have more pack and feel more “plush” than the 3.0’s. In contrast, the 3.0’s are more reactive, and while they land a little harder than the 3.5’s, they rebound/recover much faster.

There’s a G3 shock comparison image some pages back with a detailed breakdown of the two - the question gets asked from time to time.

TRFHORNET

do you run 3.5's? or just the kit ones?

thanks for the reply