Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Front Toe Question >

Front Toe Question

Like Tree22Likes

Front Toe Question

Old 12-12-2019, 06:26 PM
  #16  
Tech Elite
 
Sir 51D3WAYS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Stuck in urban hell
Posts: 3,265
Default

Originally Posted by tomkatn View Post
It doesn't matter which way works for someone, the key is that you are consistent with it ... and hopefully it will be in a manner that will help identify damage or other issues that may have developed ...
That's the key part. For me, with toe, I am not too concerned about the actual numerical value, especially on the front. I just eyeball zero and then go toe out or toe in from there to my liking based on track driving. Usually I go a slight but noticeable amount of toe in to calm down the response, and it stays there forever. Toe for me is very much a preference thing, so no point getting fixated on a number.
3DFLYER likes this.
Sir 51D3WAYS is offline  
Old 12-12-2019, 06:32 PM
  #17  
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
 
3DFLYER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 154
Default

Originally Posted by Sir 51D3WAYS View Post
That's the key part. For me, with toe, I am not too concerned about the actual numerical value, especially on the front. I just eyeball zero and then go toe out or toe in from there to my liking based on track driving. Usually I go a slight but noticeable amount of toe in to calm down the response, and it stays there forever. Toe for me is very much a preference thing, so no point getting fixated on a number.

That's great advice! I'll re set to zero and tune from there
3DFLYER is offline  
Old 12-12-2019, 08:24 PM
  #18  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

***

Last edited by zipperfoot; 02-11-2020 at 05:21 AM.
zipperfoot is offline  
Old 12-12-2019, 08:38 PM
  #19  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The States
Posts: 961
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Maybe we should use lasers now to guide alignment that would save a novel..

I raced in a day where you just dialed it so the car behaved the way you might expect.

depending on what you have most rc’s Have what is considered base setup.
Juglenaut is offline  
Old 12-12-2019, 09:43 PM
  #20  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 7
Default

Wrap a string around the rear shock tower and then around all four tires at axle height, then back around the rear shock tower to keep some tension on it. Just like stringing the alignment on a full size racecar.
Johnoly99 likes this.
Mr.fixit is offline  
Old 12-13-2019, 01:44 AM
  #21  
Tech Regular
 
antlockyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: South Coast of England
Posts: 433
Default

Vernier camper between front wheels at the front and rear, make the value the same for 0 toe
antlockyer is offline  
Old 12-13-2019, 07:14 AM
  #22  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin,TX
Posts: 5,020
Trader Rating: 33 (97%+)
Default

I stopped using a setup station for toe and have found it more accurate to use calipers and measure the distance between the ball ends making sure that the length of the exposed turnbuckle is perfectly equal on both sides.... I typically make 0.5mm adjustments until I get the desired effect of what I need on the track.

From the HUDY tuning guide:


billdelong is offline  
Old 12-13-2019, 07:49 AM
  #23  
Tech Elite
 
morgoth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Belgium
Posts: 2,898
Default

You can lend a Hudy setup station at the track and write down the toe link length for 1°, 2° and 3° toe out for example.
I have my own setup station but I barely use it.

I mainly run 1/8th scale and I know that a 29mm toe link length on both sides is 2° toe out. 28.8mm is 3° out.
Toe adjustment is a very powerful tuning option on my car and I start out with 26mm link length. I drive around come into the pit and shorten them both by a half turn. Then I drive a few more laps and I keep adjusting. If it doesn't feel better, then I try the other side for less toe out. Once I found the link length that gives me the optimal feel/performance on that track, I write the link length on my setup sheet.

So I rather go by feel and link length instead of using a setup bench to measure it. But a setup bench is good to get a starting point when you're lost or on a new car.
morgoth is offline  
Old 12-14-2019, 06:30 PM
  #24  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
RazorRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,256
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
I do not like to use the radio to adjust for center either. I center everything at zero on the radio and then keep adjusting turnbuckles until everything looks good, drives straight, and the buggy handles like I want it to.
This is wrong and you will end up with asymmetric steering left and right. If your left and right steering turnbuckles are not the same length, then one side will end up with a faster steering curve (note that your EPAs are probably drastically different left and right) than the other.

Set your bellcranks straight, same length turnbuckles, and THEN attach draglink to servo horn with a 90 deg angle on the horn to the link (not 90 deg horn to servo). Adjust draglink length and radio subtrim to get that 90 deg while keeping the bellcranks straight to set center. You should end up with symmetric steering this way, but your subtrim will obviously not be at 0.
rcgod, morgoth and antlockyer like this.
RazorRC is offline  
Old 12-16-2019, 10:49 AM
  #25  
Tech Master
 
TurnNBurn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 1,401
Default

The only way you could theoretically do this “correctly” would be with a servo that allows to to adjust the Zero position (Tekin servos with DPE and adjustment through HotWire come to mind), then as Razor said, make sure your turnbuckles are the same length.

Potentially making them of unequal length is going to mess up the Ackerman geometry designed into most buggies today. I personally would stick to starting with the recommended length (as specified in the kit manual) and confirm what the resulting toe is, as per the base setup. You can then adjust evenly from there, but it seems to me like most Kits are opting for 0 toe (or slightly positive toe) at the recommended ride height anyway.

Last edited by TurnNBurn; 12-16-2019 at 02:44 PM.
TurnNBurn is offline  
Old 12-16-2019, 01:35 PM
  #26  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Parma, Ohio
Posts: 86
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

i usually just eye ball it. not the greatest method.
cooper126 is offline  
Old 12-16-2019, 02:56 PM
  #27  
Tech Adept
 
Jonnywachter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 196
Default

Originally Posted by Mr.fixit View Post
Wrap a string around the rear shock tower and then around all four tires at axle height, then back around the rear shock tower to keep some tension on it. Just like stringing the alignment on a full size racecar.
Most cars have a different front to rear total widths, This method would not work unless both front and rear wheels were at the same width.
Jonnywachter is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.