2LikesWheel nut craziness
09-29-2019, 06:28 PM
#1
Wheel nut craziness
ok, I been doing this a good while. Never had much issue with wheel nuts. I always use nylon loc with serrated face and blue loc tite. Well on our losi 22sct converted to oval racing in mod classes, we can’t seem to keep the right rear ones tight. I wasn’t using new nyloc this weekend, but it still had good resistance on the threads, , had a good 4-6 lap lead and tire came loose and stripped wheel hex. Next step is going to be steel nuts wirh serrated face, likely traxxas since the
nylon in those tends to last longer unless someone has a lead on the best. I don’t care what they cost, it the rr will stay right it’s worth it. I even though about drilling the axle and safety wiring it like big cars or stepping up to red loc tite.
nylon in those tends to last longer unless someone has a lead on the best. I don’t care what they cost, it the rr will stay right it’s worth it. I even though about drilling the axle and safety wiring it like big cars or stepping up to red loc tite.
09-29-2019, 07:23 PM
#2
Sounds like loading on the one side from the oval is causing loosening. Ideal solution is probably reverse threaded axle and nut if the part was available.
Definitely try red loctite (262, make sure it's the genuine henkel / loctite brand), and give it plenty of cure time.
If you look on the henkel website, each product has a technical datasheet (TDS) which shows graphs of cure time vs. percentage of ultimate strength, this may be useful to check for various products (there may be a better variation than 262 for you in their vast lineup). Myself and others have found some off-brand ones to not work as well. Do try to keep the loctite on the metal threads only and off the plastic wheel. You could also try a small / correctly fitting spring washer behind the nut if it still allows full engagement of thread into the nyloc.
Definitely try red loctite (262, make sure it's the genuine henkel / loctite brand), and give it plenty of cure time.
If you look on the henkel website, each product has a technical datasheet (TDS) which shows graphs of cure time vs. percentage of ultimate strength, this may be useful to check for various products (there may be a better variation than 262 for you in their vast lineup). Myself and others have found some off-brand ones to not work as well. Do try to keep the loctite on the metal threads only and off the plastic wheel. You could also try a small / correctly fitting spring washer behind the nut if it still allows full engagement of thread into the nyloc.
09-29-2019, 08:45 PM
#3
Make sure the nut isn't shanking out on the axle before it tightens against the wheel. If so, you need a slightly wider hex. Serrated nuts will wear out the wheels, especially if you take the wheels off frequently, or have wheels you've used for a long time.
09-29-2019, 11:18 PM
#4
Right rear comes off because under power and high traction, the axle will naturally rotate in the "loosen" direction. Don't use red loctite, but if you use blue let it dry overnight so that it gets nice and putty-like in the threads. Cleaning off the threads with motor spray is a good idea too. If you just loctite it and run it, it won't do crap.
I like the TLR locknuts best because they have super-sharp serrations that they machine AFTER annodizing, so they are extra sharp.
I like the TLR locknuts best because they have super-sharp serrations that they machine AFTER annodizing, so they are extra sharp.
09-30-2019, 04:19 AM
#6
I've generally found new nyloc nuts to be satisfactory. Failing which, a light dab of blue threadlock.
09-30-2019, 11:06 AM
#7
+1 on the sharp serrated nuts. You can try large-flanged serrated nuts like Yokomo ZC-N4FL or MR33 MR33-WN2-4. I am sure there are similar nuts available from other manufacturers, too. Other options might be to use a thin back nut or, if there is enough material drill a small hole in,to the threaded part of the axle and secure it with a body pin.
09-30-2019, 02:40 PM
#8
To be honest it sounds like the wheel isn't "tight" when the nut is tightened down. Check the wheel for play after you've tightened the nut, if nothing can move it shouldn't be able to get the nut loose.
09-30-2019, 04:12 PM
#9
Tech Addict
If the axles are long enough put 2 wheel nuts on each side.
09-30-2019, 06:06 PM
#10
I personally have good luck with these and I never use any loctite and I race on supercross style tracks..
4mm Locking Wheel Nut | JConcepts
4mm Locking Wheel Nut | JConcepts
10-01-2019, 07:57 PM
#11
I use TLR serrated locknuts. I used to have this issue sometimes, and still do... but only when I’m not using the TLR’s or other aggressively serrated nylock nuts. Nylock nuts don’t last forever, either. Consider them a light consumable. Sometimes the issue is you just need to MAN tighten those suckers. Not Hulk tight, just a manly wrench. If you’re using the tiny little cross-wrench that came with the kit, that’s also your issue. Get a good set of tools and your hands and cars will last longer. Putting a dab of blue locktite on the threads a few days before your race is a good insurance. A pre-mix of 20:80 red to blue locktite works too, if you really, really need it after you’ve tried all of everyone’s suggestions. Just no more than 20% red! The wheels you’re using could also be old and worn out. It sucks, but wheels don’t last for ever. Clamping aluminum hexes will help if you’re currently using plastic ones. The plastic hexes will flex too, just like the wheel, which shortens the life of the wheel. Sometimes you’re hitting the throttle too hard; punching it. That immense and immediate force over and over is enough to jerk those nuts right off. (Lol) Don’t use steel nuts- use aluminum. They’re lighter and hold on better. Yes, nuts of steel sound more manly, but nuts of aluminum work better for this application. 
Hope this helps,
-E
Hope this helps,
-E
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