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Vorza Truggy conversion questions.

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Vorza Truggy conversion questions.

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Old 07-13-2019, 10:46 PM
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Default Vorza Truggy conversion questions.

Hello! I just finished turning my Vorza into a Truggy with D8T parts. I could not finish the build! I ran into issues and I need help! They are not too major I don't think.

1. Front Axle play causing it to jam. With my hexes on I can shift my shaft in and out, there is tiny play which causes an issue, if I push it in, the shaft's universal joint hits the hub and restricts its turning. If I pull out the shaft it moves freely. I think I need shims between the Hex and bearings, I have no idea if that is a good thing to do or if it would cause issues. Help?

2. Front suspension seems limited by sway bar, While wheels are in the air it looks like my a-arms are pretty flat with the body, the shock is fully uncompressed and the sway bar is at it's limit. This should be ok since once it is on the ground things will compress a little, but what if I wanted to increase my ride height? I purchased "long ball ends" for the shocks, this should give me a bit more distance but what about the sway bar? When I search Amainhobbies, it looks like they only have the same sway bar listed for the D8 and the D8T. Also should I install dropp screws to take the load off the spring and sway bar when fully uncompressed?

3. My rear is also at its height limit from the shocks in the back, A-arms pretty flat. Unlike the front the sway bar, the rear one has plenty of room to move, but not the shocks. Should I use the long ball end? I also purchased shock shafts that seem longer (I got these parts lists from browsing this forum) and longer springs. Is this just a straight switch? take apart my shocks, and replace the shock shaft for an increase in length?

4. My final question. My drive shafts for the front wheels and rear wheels that I purchased for the conversion are CVD. On the vorza the front are CVD but the rear are dog bones. I was able to steal the CVD set screws to do the front, but I have no screws to fit the rear, all my set screws are too long and stick out. I search on amainhobbies lead me to nowhere to find the right set screws for these shafts. https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-raci...115397/p479557

Please let me know if I need to explain anything better, I am kinda new to this and have a hard time naming parts and explaining myself. I can even take a video and show you what I am talking about in each of the questions if you guys think it would help.
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Old 07-14-2019, 12:49 AM
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1) Shims won't cause a problem at all. I always use shims between hex and bearing on all my builds, plus every where else there's any play. I use Kyosho 8mm shims, they come in packs of 30 (10x 0.1, 10x 0.2, 10x 0.3)
2) Don't quite understand
3) A longer shock shaft would require a longer shock body. The truggy shocks would be longer
4) Does the inner bearing on the hub cover the hole where the pin goes in? if so it doesn't need the set screw as the bearing stops it falling out. Again use shims between bearing and hex
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Old 07-14-2019, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by gavsta72 View Post
1) Shims won't cause a problem at all. I always use shims between hex and bearing on all my builds, plus every where else there's any play. I use Kyosho 8mm shims, they come in packs of 30 (10x 0.1, 10x 0.2, 10x 0.3)
2) Don't quite understand
3) A longer shock shaft would require a longer shock body. The truggy shocks would be longer
4) Does the inner bearing on the hub cover the hole where the pin goes in? if so it doesn't need the set screw as the bearing stops it falling out. Again use shims between bearing and hex
Ok, I will add shims to the order. I made a quick video to try an explain what I mean in #2, basically, it seems like the the sway bar is limiting the drop angle of the a-arm when it just hangs there, I can get a little more distance out of the shock if I move it a notch, but the sway bar would be under stress, I can't get my a-arms to slope downwards.

I do have and I have installed the longer shock body, I will go ahead and install the new shaft, I have new longer springs too. I also have longer ends for both the front and back too if it comes to that, I just need to figure out the front sway bar.

4) The front axles have the pins exposed when turning. The back ones are exposed ALL the time, but the shafts come with a cap. I have not tried installing the rear yet because I thought I need a set screw but I think it will fit with the cap and that will keep it in. Unfortunately there is no way the cap will fit in the front. It has a rubber seal too. I greased it and installed it all to find out it doesn't fit. I am confident it will fit with the fancy parts in the back tho! Thanks.

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Old 07-15-2019, 01:05 PM
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Aaah i see. It's a bit hard to tell exactly, but the rear sway looks like it's longer/wider? so put a rear one on the front also?

Btw here's a link to the shims I use for axles https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...kyo96644/p4067

Last edited by gavsta72; 07-15-2019 at 01:12 PM. Reason: add a link
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Old 07-16-2019, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by gavsta72 View Post
Aaah i see. It's a bit hard to tell exactly, but the rear sway looks like it's longer/wider? so put a rear one on the front also?

Btw here's a link to the shims I use for axles https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...kyo96644/p4067
I ordered the shims, those exact ones thanks to you. I found them! Thank you sir. I'll try ordering a sway bar in my next order. I was able to fit the caps in the back so I did not require set screws there, that worked.

All I need is shims and steering links and Ill be in action, and those are on their way For now I think I will use droop screws on the front because they don't seem even, until I get that sway bar.

It is SO WIDE now, its going to be awesome!

The car never had droop screws, but I see holes where they belong. You just screw a normal screw that is long enough there right?
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:18 PM
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Nice one. It would be the same wheelbase and width as a Tekno MT410, so good for high speed runs as it's nice and stable

Looks the goods so enjoy
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