Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
How to Corner Faster? >

How to Corner Faster?

Like Tree10Likes

How to Corner Faster?

Old 01-18-2019, 05:58 PM
  #1  
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Maryland, US
Posts: 30
Questions?? How to Corner Faster?

Hello, I'm running a RC10B6.1 Factory Lite on carpet. I'm using a Reedy S+ 17.5T motor with a HobbyWing XR10 Justock ESC. All of my shocks have 30 WT oil inside them.

I have a result from my last race (first time racing for me):
(I came 6th out of 7, and that was because one guy crashed)
  • I did 14 laps in 5:11.913
  • The dude in 5th did 15 laps in 5:04.437
  • 4th = 17 laps in 5:13.891
  • 3rd = 19 laps, 5:11.344
  • 2nd = 19 laps, 5:01.992
  • 1st = 20 laps, 5:12.333
I noticed that I'm the only Reedy guy, and I pass all the other buggies on the single straight at the track. I get passed fast on the curves, however. I know more practice is an essential element, but I also know my set up is an issue.

Carpet track, medium size, high to very high grip.

One person recommended using 32.5 WT to 35 WT shock oil in my front shocks to corner better. Would 50WT help me more?

Also, would I need a stiffer spring? I'm currently using the stock AE springs that came in my kit (white).

Another thing: Would positive camber help me out? My camber on the front and rear are neutral. My rear is toe-in, though.

Positive camber is /---\ if you look at the buggy from the front, correct? Positive camber gives you more turn in? I think I need more turn in if I'm not mistaken.

I have a 10cm wide custom front wing mounted behind my shock tower on my buggy. I haven't raced with it yet. It's basically a slightly angled, flat piece of leftover lexan.

Any information is appreciated!
dms70 likes this.
lazyfortress is offline  
Old 01-18-2019, 06:08 PM
  #2  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Deep South Texas
Posts: 1,416
Default

I think First you are OVER geared..... good straight away speed.. but NO torque to maintain any speed in the corners..
your words.. " and I pass all the other buggies on the single straight "

how to you "Turn" the steering wheel" ?? .. smooth and deliberate .. or just slam the steering wheel to the stop:??

then there is the "Racing" LINE.... arc the turn.. not steer the turn..
racing is NOT driving...
racing line... start wide, turn in, clip the apex, drift out of the corner.. maintain speed... turning looses speed...

there is a Whole School on "race" driving.. real cars... RC cars..all the same.

check this link out
https://www.skoda-motorsport.com/en/...rive-like-pro/
a1 likes this.
chuck_thehammer is offline  
Old 01-18-2019, 07:00 PM
  #3  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 245
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lazyfortress
Hello, I'm running a RC10B6.1 Factory Lite on carpet. I'm using a Reedy S+ 17.5T motor with a HobbyWing XR10 Justock ESC. All of my shocks have 30 WT oil inside them.

I have a result from my last race (first time racing for me):
(I came 6th out of 7, and that was because one guy crashed)
  • I did 14 laps in 5:11.913
  • The dude in 5th did 15 laps in 5:04.437
  • 4th = 17 laps in 5:13.891
  • 3rd = 19 laps, 5:11.344
  • 2nd = 19 laps, 5:01.992
  • 1st = 20 laps, 5:12.333
I noticed that I'm the only Reedy guy, and I pass all the other buggies on the single straight at the track. I get passed fast on the curves, however. I know more practice is an essential element, but I also know my set up is an issue.

Carpet track, medium size, high to very high grip.

One person recommended using 32.5 WT to 35 WT shock oil in my front shocks to corner better. Would 50WT help me more?

Also, would I need a stiffer spring? I'm currently using the stock AE springs that came in my kit (white).

Another thing: Would positive camber help me out? My camber on the front and rear are neutral. My rear is toe-in, though.

Positive camber is /---\ if you look at the buggy from the front, correct? Positive camber gives you more turn in? I think I need more turn in if I'm not mistaken.

I have a 10cm wide custom front wing mounted behind my shock tower on my buggy. I haven't raced with it yet. It's basically a slightly angled, flat piece of leftover lexan.

Any information is appreciated!
I think you are talking about toe and not camber. You never should run positive camber only negative. However, toe out or positive toe will give you more initial steering but can cause the buggy to be a little more unstable. Camber is the angle of the wheel compared to the surface, negaitve camber means the top of your wheels are angle toward the middle of the chassis. I would start with -1* camber all around and 0* or +1* toe out on front. Also, for carpet you should go to heavier springs and thinker oils. I run v2 red fronts and v2 blue rears with 40 wt oil front and 37.5 rear. Also, you need to run lower ride heights on carpet to prevent traction rolling. Start with 16 mm all around and tune from there.

The other thing is if you have a stock factory lite you should pick up a gear diff which is the preferred diff type on carpet.
Kelseyrc is offline  
Old 01-18-2019, 07:23 PM
  #4  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I dont think anyone has mentioned LOTS and LOTS of practice. Go to the track on days when its not busy. Having to not marshall your own car teaches you how to drive correctly real fast lol. You can also test and tune. Learn what change to the suspension do what. Try different racing lines.

I go to the track when no one or little amount of people will be there to practice so I can focus on the above without the distractions.

Just get out there and practice, everything will fall into place, sooner or later.
Pistol123 and Eddosi1978 like this.
Evoking1230 is offline  
Old 01-18-2019, 08:20 PM
  #5  
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Maryland, US
Posts: 30
Default

Originally Posted by chuck_thehammer
I think First you are OVER geared..... good straight away speed.. but NO torque to maintain any speed in the corners..
your words.. " and I pass all the other buggies on the single straight "

how to you "Turn" the steering wheel" ?? .. smooth and deliberate .. or just slam the steering wheel to the stop:??

then there is the "Racing" LINE.... arc the turn.. not steer the turn..
racing is NOT driving...
racing line... start wide, turn in, clip the apex, drift out of the corner.. maintain speed... turning looses speed...

there is a Whole School on "race" driving.. real cars... RC cars..all the same.

check this link out
https://www.skoda-motorsport.com/en/...rive-like-pro/
I know what a racing line is, but I appreciate the link. I do Assetto Corsa a lot, and I know how important your racing line is. RC racing is a bit different, as it's hard to judge (for me at least) how close the corner is.

I tend to "bump" the throttle, kinda like what one would do in nitro buggy racing. I also "slam the steering wheel to the stop."

I'm running what the manual told me to put on. 29T pinion (48P), and a 72T spur gear. I also can't really drift unless I brake hard. Doesn't drifting make you lose time?

I also remember one guy telling me to adjust my throttle's EPA to like 85% instead of 100% because of my speed. He said it would help with the corners. Is that proper?

-1* camber is good for the front and rear? Never positive camber for the front? How do I adjust camber and toe in? The dude at the shop helped lower my ride height and make camber and toe all neutral. I already have a turnbuckle wrench. What else do I need to adjust?

Also, should I get 40 WT shock oil then (front)? Red springs for the front?

Edit: What would too stiff of a front suspension do on this track?

Last edited by lazyfortress; 01-18-2019 at 09:12 PM.
lazyfortress is offline  
Old 01-18-2019, 09:35 PM
  #6  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 245
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lazyfortress
I know what a racing line is, but I appreciate the link. I do Assetto Corsa a lot, and I know how important your racing line is. RC racing is a bit different, as it's hard to judge (for me at least) how close the corner is.

I tend to "bump" the throttle, kinda like what one would do in nitro buggy racing. I also "slam the steering wheel to the stop."

I'm running what the manual told me to put on. 29T pinion (48P), and a 72T spur gear. I also can't really drift unless I brake hard. Doesn't drifting make you lose time?

I also remember one guy telling me to adjust my throttle's EPA to like 85% instead of 100% because of my speed. He said it would help with the corners. Is that proper?

-1* camber is good for the front and rear? Never positive camber for the front? How do I adjust camber and toe in? The dude at the shop helped lower my ride height and make camber and toe all neutral. I already have a turnbuckle wrench. What else do I need to adjust?

Also, should I get 40 WT shock oil then (front)? Red springs for the front?

Edit: What would too stiff of a front suspension do on this track?
You should download the hudy guide, here is the link for it.

https://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddwnld.php?prod_id=268&Hudy_Session=22ab36370fa b55b04b98df22e24e50f8

It will give you a lot of setup information and how to adjust everything.
Kelseyrc is offline  
Old 01-18-2019, 10:18 PM
  #7  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
 
RCSteveH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Anywhere there’s a track
Posts: 412
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Here’s another link... since I like tanks 😎

https://www.teknoforums.com/misc/Tek...etup-Guide.pdf
TeamDrax likes this.
RCSteveH is offline  
Old 01-19-2019, 01:50 AM
  #8  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Deep South Texas
Posts: 1,416
Default

practice,,,
practice,,, not just finger, sight... time frames.. great sight detail for distance comes from PRACTICE... lots of practice.

I have ONE EYE. born that way.
been racing for years... started with real cars ( drag racing then SCCA )...
then amateur motorcycle racing, ( road racing ) ( Mid Ohio Sports Car Course )...( Nelson Ledges Race Way ) both Ohio.
then RC car racing since 1991 ( Indoor Carpet )1/10 and 1/12 scale Pan Car...
1/4 scale RC, banked oval outdoor on blacktop. that;s a 30 pound welded steel tube car running on gasoline. 10 cars on a 350 foot race line.. ( tight quarters ) 50mph real speed.

you talked about car setup.. but provided no information about your knowledge of Driving.. just that you are NEW at RC...

driving is still the Most needed to improve car performance .. and it take years.. and TON's of practice.. its racing.

Remember to have FUN... trying to Hard is NOT GOOD.

NEVER slam the steering wheel to the stop.. first it can brake off the stop.... and most important... it burns off corner speed... ALOT.
do you drive your real car that way ????????????????????
jgil089 likes this.

Last edited by chuck_thehammer; 01-19-2019 at 04:55 PM.
chuck_thehammer is offline  
Old 01-19-2019, 03:32 AM
  #9  
Tech Regular
 
HOTROD716's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: WNY
Posts: 293
Default

Originally Posted by chuck_thehammer
practice,,, not just finger, sight... time frames.. great sight detail for distance comes from PRACTICE... lots of practice.

I have ONE EYE. born that way.
been racing for years... started with real cars ( drag racing then SCCA )...
then amateur motorcycle racing, ( road racing ) ( Mid Ohio Sports Car Course )...( Nelson Ledges Race Way ) both Ohio.
then RC car racing since 1991 ( Indoor Carpet )1/10 and 1/12 scale Pan Car...
1/4 scale RC, banked oval outdoor on blacktop. that;s a 30 pound welded steel tube car running on gasoline. 10 cars on a 350 foot race line.. ( tight quarters ) 50mph real speed.

you talked about car setup.. but provided no information about your knowledge of Driving.. just that you are NEW at RC...

driving is still the Most needed to improve car performance .. and it take years.. and TON's of practice.. its racing.

Remember to have FUN... trying to Hard is NOT GOOD.

NEVER slam the steering wheel to the stop.. first it can brake off the stop.... and most important... it burns off corner speed... ALOT.
do you drive your real car that way ????????????????????
i do have a question on technique then, on the 180 degree turns, I need to figure a decent way to navigate them. Irregardless of chassis I almost always have to drive them slow, almost stopping(no exactly but it feel like from the drivers stand) I can’t just ease out or into the throttle line I can on the switchbacks.
HOTROD716 is offline  
Old 01-19-2019, 04:04 AM
  #10  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Deep South Texas
Posts: 1,416
Default

Originally Posted by HOTROD716


i do have a question on technique then, on the 180 degree turns, I need to figure a decent way to navigate them. Irregardless of chassis I almost always have to drive them slow, almost stopping(no exactly but it feel like from the drivers stand) I can’t just ease out or into the throttle line I can on the switchbacks.



you are correct.. our track has 5 turns like that... there I use the rotate style.... stay tight to the inside... rotate then drive out.... Smooth is key.. brake into... release brake then tight slow turn.. ease into the throttle out..
I run a loose diff.. for easy rotation.... and a tighter slipper clutch..
I run a SC5M...
the track uses 4 inch plastic pipe for walls... my truck can make a "U" turn in 8 inches.

to the OP... rule number 2 in racing... never jerk the steering wheel AND never stab the brakes... it upsets the suspension... you can not arc a curve with an upset suspension..
WELL, you can but you kill all your cornering speed.

my opinion.
JCG1 likes this.

Last edited by chuck_thehammer; 01-19-2019 at 04:27 AM.
chuck_thehammer is offline  
Old 01-19-2019, 04:57 AM
  #11  
Tech Fanatic
 
Pistol123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 886
Default

Originally Posted by HOTROD716


i do have a question on technique then, on the 180 degree turns, I need to figure a decent way to navigate them. Irregardless of chassis I almost always have to drive them slow, almost stopping(no exactly but it feel like from the drivers stand) I can’t just ease out or into the throttle line I can on the switchbacks.
Sounds like you need to use a stiffer front spring, some weight in the front and maybe reduce your rear toe (tyres more parallel) to free up the rear a bit and make it more front dominated.

When you check your lap times, look at trying to get them consistent rather fast, if you can be consistent it makes it easier to notice any setup changes.
Pistol123 is online now  
Old 01-19-2019, 06:19 AM
  #12  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Deep South Texas
Posts: 1,416
Default

deleted

Last edited by chuck_thehammer; 01-19-2019 at 04:46 PM.
chuck_thehammer is offline  
Old 01-19-2019, 08:24 AM
  #13  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,883
Trader Rating: 86 (100%+)
Default

Download a known good carpet setup from either petitrc or associated.com and put the settings on your car and maybe get help to dial out a little steering to make it easier to drive. Get a couple of smaller sizes of pinion gears to have gearing options so you don’t overheat your motor, then just drive it. You’ll develop timing and coordination and better depth perception as you gain wheel time.
chuck_thehammer likes this.
Davidka is offline  
Old 01-19-2019, 11:12 AM
  #14  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 129
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lazyfortress
Hello, I'm running a RC10B6.1 Factory Lite on carpet. I'm using a Reedy S+ 17.5T motor with a HobbyWing XR10 Justock ESC. All of my shocks have 30 WT oil inside them.

I have a result from my last race (first time racing for me):
(I came 6th out of 7, and that was because one guy crashed)
  • I did 14 laps in 5:11.913
  • The dude in 5th did 15 laps in 5:04.437
  • 4th = 17 laps in 5:13.891
  • 3rd = 19 laps, 5:11.344
  • 2nd = 19 laps, 5:01.992
  • 1st = 20 laps, 5:12.333
I noticed that I'm the only Reedy guy, and I pass all the other buggies on the single straight at the track. I get passed fast on the curves, however. I know more practice is an essential element, but I also know my set up is an issue.

Carpet track, medium size, high to very high grip.

One person recommended using 32.5 WT to 35 WT shock oil in my front shocks to corner better. Would 50WT help me more?

Also, would I need a stiffer spring? I'm currently using the stock AE springs that came in my kit (white).

Another thing: Would positive camber help me out? My camber on the front and rear are neutral. My rear is toe-in, though.

Positive camber is /---\ if you look at the buggy from the front, correct? Positive camber gives you more turn in? I think I need more turn in if I'm not mistaken.

I have a 10cm wide custom front wing mounted behind my shock tower on my buggy. I haven't raced with it yet. It's basically a slightly angled, flat piece of leftover lexan.

Any information is appreciated!
If you are 6 laps behind the #1 in a 20 lap race, I dont think I would bother to much with the car setup. Use your time at the track practicing as much as possible as long as your car is pretty decent to drive. Copy a setup for a similar track and practice a lot and have fun or let one of the fastest guys borrow your car and get setup tips from him/her.
chuck_thehammer likes this.
benstian is offline  
Old 01-19-2019, 08:45 PM
  #15  
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Maryland, US
Posts: 30
Default

Originally Posted by chuck_thehammer
practice,,,
practice,,, not just finger, sight... time frames.. great sight detail for distance comes from PRACTICE... lots of practice.

I have ONE EYE. born that way.
been racing for years... started with real cars ( drag racing then SCCA )...
then amateur motorcycle racing, ( road racing ) ( Mid Ohio Sports Car Course )...( Nelson Ledges Race Way ) both Ohio.
then RC car racing since 1991 ( Indoor Carpet )1/10 and 1/12 scale Pan Car...
1/4 scale RC, banked oval outdoor on blacktop. that;s a 30 pound welded steel tube car running on gasoline. 10 cars on a 350 foot race line.. ( tight quarters ) 50mph real speed.

you talked about car setup.. but provided no information about your knowledge of Driving.. just that you are NEW at RC...

driving is still the Most needed to improve car performance .. and it take years.. and TON's of practice.. its racing.

Remember to have FUN... trying to Hard is NOT GOOD.

NEVER slam the steering wheel to the stop.. first it can brake off the stop.... and most important... it burns off corner speed... ALOT.
do you drive your real car that way ????????????????????
Originally Posted by benstian
If you are 6 laps behind the #1 in a 20 lap race, I dont think I would bother to much with the car setup. Use your time at the track practicing as much as possible as long as your car is pretty decent to drive. Copy a setup for a similar track and practice a lot and have fun or let one of the fastest guys borrow your car and get setup tips from him/her.
@benstian The race was a 5 minute race. 2 races. I came 6th the first race, and 7th the second race. I was 7 laps behind the leader in the second race. I'll be practicing a lot this coming Monday, as I have off of school that day.

@Chuck_thehammer I'm only 16, and I just got my learner's permit lol. I'm still in high school. I only get to practice RC every friday, and that's for like 20 minutes. I only have 1 battery currently.
As for my knowledge of driving, I do a lot of racing simulators (pales in comparison to what you did in real life, drag racing is awesome), and I often get podium. I use a wheel that gives me about 33 pounds of force feedback.

As for RC driving, I've only been driving for a bit more than a year. I started off with a nitro Slash 2WD for bashing, and I just got my RC10B6.1 last month. I've been practicing at the track for a grand total of about 5 times now.

One question before I buy stuff on AMain hobbies: What shock oil would you suggest for my front, along with springs?
lazyfortress is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.