How to Corner Faster?
#1
How to Corner Faster?
Hello, I'm running a RC10B6.1 Factory Lite on carpet. I'm using a Reedy S+ 17.5T motor with a HobbyWing XR10 Justock ESC. All of my shocks have 30 WT oil inside them.
I have a result from my last race (first time racing for me):
(I came 6th out of 7, and that was because one guy crashed)
Carpet track, medium size, high to very high grip.
One person recommended using 32.5 WT to 35 WT shock oil in my front shocks to corner better. Would 50WT help me more?
Also, would I need a stiffer spring? I'm currently using the stock AE springs that came in my kit (white).
Another thing: Would positive camber help me out? My camber on the front and rear are neutral. My rear is toe-in, though.
Positive camber is /---\ if you look at the buggy from the front, correct? Positive camber gives you more turn in? I think I need more turn in if I'm not mistaken.
I have a 10cm wide custom front wing mounted behind my shock tower on my buggy. I haven't raced with it yet. It's basically a slightly angled, flat piece of leftover lexan.
Any information is appreciated!
I have a result from my last race (first time racing for me):
(I came 6th out of 7, and that was because one guy crashed)
- I did 14 laps in 5:11.913
- The dude in 5th did 15 laps in 5:04.437
- 4th = 17 laps in 5:13.891
- 3rd = 19 laps, 5:11.344
- 2nd = 19 laps, 5:01.992
- 1st = 20 laps, 5:12.333
Carpet track, medium size, high to very high grip.
One person recommended using 32.5 WT to 35 WT shock oil in my front shocks to corner better. Would 50WT help me more?
Also, would I need a stiffer spring? I'm currently using the stock AE springs that came in my kit (white).
Another thing: Would positive camber help me out? My camber on the front and rear are neutral. My rear is toe-in, though.
Positive camber is /---\ if you look at the buggy from the front, correct? Positive camber gives you more turn in? I think I need more turn in if I'm not mistaken.
I have a 10cm wide custom front wing mounted behind my shock tower on my buggy. I haven't raced with it yet. It's basically a slightly angled, flat piece of leftover lexan.
Any information is appreciated!
#2
Tech Master
I think First you are OVER geared..... good straight away speed.. but NO torque to maintain any speed in the corners..
your words.. " and I pass all the other buggies on the single straight "
how to you "Turn" the steering wheel" ?? .. smooth and deliberate .. or just slam the steering wheel to the stop:??
then there is the "Racing" LINE.... arc the turn.. not steer the turn..
racing is NOT driving...
racing line... start wide, turn in, clip the apex, drift out of the corner.. maintain speed... turning looses speed...
there is a Whole School on "race" driving.. real cars... RC cars..all the same.
check this link out
https://www.skoda-motorsport.com/en/...rive-like-pro/
your words.. " and I pass all the other buggies on the single straight "
how to you "Turn" the steering wheel" ?? .. smooth and deliberate .. or just slam the steering wheel to the stop:??
then there is the "Racing" LINE.... arc the turn.. not steer the turn..
racing is NOT driving...
racing line... start wide, turn in, clip the apex, drift out of the corner.. maintain speed... turning looses speed...
there is a Whole School on "race" driving.. real cars... RC cars..all the same.
check this link out
https://www.skoda-motorsport.com/en/...rive-like-pro/
#3
Hello, I'm running a RC10B6.1 Factory Lite on carpet. I'm using a Reedy S+ 17.5T motor with a HobbyWing XR10 Justock ESC. All of my shocks have 30 WT oil inside them.
I have a result from my last race (first time racing for me):
(I came 6th out of 7, and that was because one guy crashed)
Carpet track, medium size, high to very high grip.
One person recommended using 32.5 WT to 35 WT shock oil in my front shocks to corner better. Would 50WT help me more?
Also, would I need a stiffer spring? I'm currently using the stock AE springs that came in my kit (white).
Another thing: Would positive camber help me out? My camber on the front and rear are neutral. My rear is toe-in, though.
Positive camber is /---\ if you look at the buggy from the front, correct? Positive camber gives you more turn in? I think I need more turn in if I'm not mistaken.
I have a 10cm wide custom front wing mounted behind my shock tower on my buggy. I haven't raced with it yet. It's basically a slightly angled, flat piece of leftover lexan.
Any information is appreciated!
I have a result from my last race (first time racing for me):
(I came 6th out of 7, and that was because one guy crashed)
- I did 14 laps in 5:11.913
- The dude in 5th did 15 laps in 5:04.437
- 4th = 17 laps in 5:13.891
- 3rd = 19 laps, 5:11.344
- 2nd = 19 laps, 5:01.992
- 1st = 20 laps, 5:12.333
Carpet track, medium size, high to very high grip.
One person recommended using 32.5 WT to 35 WT shock oil in my front shocks to corner better. Would 50WT help me more?
Also, would I need a stiffer spring? I'm currently using the stock AE springs that came in my kit (white).
Another thing: Would positive camber help me out? My camber on the front and rear are neutral. My rear is toe-in, though.
Positive camber is /---\ if you look at the buggy from the front, correct? Positive camber gives you more turn in? I think I need more turn in if I'm not mistaken.
I have a 10cm wide custom front wing mounted behind my shock tower on my buggy. I haven't raced with it yet. It's basically a slightly angled, flat piece of leftover lexan.
Any information is appreciated!
The other thing is if you have a stock factory lite you should pick up a gear diff which is the preferred diff type on carpet.
#4
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
I dont think anyone has mentioned LOTS and LOTS of practice. Go to the track on days when its not busy. Having to not marshall your own car teaches you how to drive correctly real fast lol. You can also test and tune. Learn what change to the suspension do what. Try different racing lines.
I go to the track when no one or little amount of people will be there to practice so I can focus on the above without the distractions.
Just get out there and practice, everything will fall into place, sooner or later.
I go to the track when no one or little amount of people will be there to practice so I can focus on the above without the distractions.
Just get out there and practice, everything will fall into place, sooner or later.
#5
I think First you are OVER geared..... good straight away speed.. but NO torque to maintain any speed in the corners..
your words.. " and I pass all the other buggies on the single straight "
how to you "Turn" the steering wheel" ?? .. smooth and deliberate .. or just slam the steering wheel to the stop:??
then there is the "Racing" LINE.... arc the turn.. not steer the turn..
racing is NOT driving...
racing line... start wide, turn in, clip the apex, drift out of the corner.. maintain speed... turning looses speed...
there is a Whole School on "race" driving.. real cars... RC cars..all the same.
check this link out
https://www.skoda-motorsport.com/en/...rive-like-pro/
your words.. " and I pass all the other buggies on the single straight "
how to you "Turn" the steering wheel" ?? .. smooth and deliberate .. or just slam the steering wheel to the stop:??
then there is the "Racing" LINE.... arc the turn.. not steer the turn..
racing is NOT driving...
racing line... start wide, turn in, clip the apex, drift out of the corner.. maintain speed... turning looses speed...
there is a Whole School on "race" driving.. real cars... RC cars..all the same.
check this link out
https://www.skoda-motorsport.com/en/...rive-like-pro/
I tend to "bump" the throttle, kinda like what one would do in nitro buggy racing. I also "slam the steering wheel to the stop."
I'm running what the manual told me to put on. 29T pinion (48P), and a 72T spur gear. I also can't really drift unless I brake hard. Doesn't drifting make you lose time?
I also remember one guy telling me to adjust my throttle's EPA to like 85% instead of 100% because of my speed. He said it would help with the corners. Is that proper?
-1* camber is good for the front and rear? Never positive camber for the front? How do I adjust camber and toe in? The dude at the shop helped lower my ride height and make camber and toe all neutral. I already have a turnbuckle wrench. What else do I need to adjust?
Also, should I get 40 WT shock oil then (front)? Red springs for the front?
Edit: What would too stiff of a front suspension do on this track?
Last edited by lazyfortress; 01-18-2019 at 09:12 PM.
#6
I know what a racing line is, but I appreciate the link. I do Assetto Corsa a lot, and I know how important your racing line is. RC racing is a bit different, as it's hard to judge (for me at least) how close the corner is.
I tend to "bump" the throttle, kinda like what one would do in nitro buggy racing. I also "slam the steering wheel to the stop."
I'm running what the manual told me to put on. 29T pinion (48P), and a 72T spur gear. I also can't really drift unless I brake hard. Doesn't drifting make you lose time?
I also remember one guy telling me to adjust my throttle's EPA to like 85% instead of 100% because of my speed. He said it would help with the corners. Is that proper?
-1* camber is good for the front and rear? Never positive camber for the front? How do I adjust camber and toe in? The dude at the shop helped lower my ride height and make camber and toe all neutral. I already have a turnbuckle wrench. What else do I need to adjust?
Also, should I get 40 WT shock oil then (front)? Red springs for the front?
Edit: What would too stiff of a front suspension do on this track?
I tend to "bump" the throttle, kinda like what one would do in nitro buggy racing. I also "slam the steering wheel to the stop."
I'm running what the manual told me to put on. 29T pinion (48P), and a 72T spur gear. I also can't really drift unless I brake hard. Doesn't drifting make you lose time?
I also remember one guy telling me to adjust my throttle's EPA to like 85% instead of 100% because of my speed. He said it would help with the corners. Is that proper?
-1* camber is good for the front and rear? Never positive camber for the front? How do I adjust camber and toe in? The dude at the shop helped lower my ride height and make camber and toe all neutral. I already have a turnbuckle wrench. What else do I need to adjust?
Also, should I get 40 WT shock oil then (front)? Red springs for the front?
Edit: What would too stiff of a front suspension do on this track?
https://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddwnld.php?prod_id=268&Hudy_Session=22ab36370fa b55b04b98df22e24e50f8
It will give you a lot of setup information and how to adjust everything.
#8
Tech Master
practice,,,
practice,,, not just finger, sight... time frames.. great sight detail for distance comes from PRACTICE... lots of practice.
I have ONE EYE. born that way.
been racing for years... started with real cars ( drag racing then SCCA )...
then amateur motorcycle racing, ( road racing ) ( Mid Ohio Sports Car Course )...( Nelson Ledges Race Way ) both Ohio.
then RC car racing since 1991 ( Indoor Carpet )1/10 and 1/12 scale Pan Car...
1/4 scale RC, banked oval outdoor on blacktop. that;s a 30 pound welded steel tube car running on gasoline. 10 cars on a 350 foot race line.. ( tight quarters ) 50mph real speed.
you talked about car setup.. but provided no information about your knowledge of Driving.. just that you are NEW at RC...
driving is still the Most needed to improve car performance .. and it take years.. and TON's of practice.. its racing.
Remember to have FUN... trying to Hard is NOT GOOD.
NEVER slam the steering wheel to the stop.. first it can brake off the stop.... and most important... it burns off corner speed... ALOT.
do you drive your real car that way ????????????????????
practice,,, not just finger, sight... time frames.. great sight detail for distance comes from PRACTICE... lots of practice.
I have ONE EYE. born that way.
been racing for years... started with real cars ( drag racing then SCCA )...
then amateur motorcycle racing, ( road racing ) ( Mid Ohio Sports Car Course )...( Nelson Ledges Race Way ) both Ohio.
then RC car racing since 1991 ( Indoor Carpet )1/10 and 1/12 scale Pan Car...
1/4 scale RC, banked oval outdoor on blacktop. that;s a 30 pound welded steel tube car running on gasoline. 10 cars on a 350 foot race line.. ( tight quarters ) 50mph real speed.
you talked about car setup.. but provided no information about your knowledge of Driving.. just that you are NEW at RC...
driving is still the Most needed to improve car performance .. and it take years.. and TON's of practice.. its racing.
Remember to have FUN... trying to Hard is NOT GOOD.
NEVER slam the steering wheel to the stop.. first it can brake off the stop.... and most important... it burns off corner speed... ALOT.
do you drive your real car that way ????????????????????
Last edited by chuck_thehammer; 01-19-2019 at 04:55 PM.
#9
practice,,, not just finger, sight... time frames.. great sight detail for distance comes from PRACTICE... lots of practice.
I have ONE EYE. born that way.
been racing for years... started with real cars ( drag racing then SCCA )...
then amateur motorcycle racing, ( road racing ) ( Mid Ohio Sports Car Course )...( Nelson Ledges Race Way ) both Ohio.
then RC car racing since 1991 ( Indoor Carpet )1/10 and 1/12 scale Pan Car...
1/4 scale RC, banked oval outdoor on blacktop. that;s a 30 pound welded steel tube car running on gasoline. 10 cars on a 350 foot race line.. ( tight quarters ) 50mph real speed.
you talked about car setup.. but provided no information about your knowledge of Driving.. just that you are NEW at RC...
driving is still the Most needed to improve car performance .. and it take years.. and TON's of practice.. its racing.
Remember to have FUN... trying to Hard is NOT GOOD.
NEVER slam the steering wheel to the stop.. first it can brake off the stop.... and most important... it burns off corner speed... ALOT.
do you drive your real car that way ????????????????????
I have ONE EYE. born that way.
been racing for years... started with real cars ( drag racing then SCCA )...
then amateur motorcycle racing, ( road racing ) ( Mid Ohio Sports Car Course )...( Nelson Ledges Race Way ) both Ohio.
then RC car racing since 1991 ( Indoor Carpet )1/10 and 1/12 scale Pan Car...
1/4 scale RC, banked oval outdoor on blacktop. that;s a 30 pound welded steel tube car running on gasoline. 10 cars on a 350 foot race line.. ( tight quarters ) 50mph real speed.
you talked about car setup.. but provided no information about your knowledge of Driving.. just that you are NEW at RC...
driving is still the Most needed to improve car performance .. and it take years.. and TON's of practice.. its racing.
Remember to have FUN... trying to Hard is NOT GOOD.
NEVER slam the steering wheel to the stop.. first it can brake off the stop.... and most important... it burns off corner speed... ALOT.
do you drive your real car that way ????????????????????
#10
Tech Master
i do have a question on technique then, on the 180 degree turns, I need to figure a decent way to navigate them. Irregardless of chassis I almost always have to drive them slow, almost stopping(no exactly but it feel like from the drivers stand) I can’t just ease out or into the throttle line I can on the switchbacks.
I run a loose diff.. for easy rotation.... and a tighter slipper clutch..
I run a SC5M...
the track uses 4 inch plastic pipe for walls... my truck can make a "U" turn in 8 inches.
to the OP... rule number 2 in racing... never jerk the steering wheel AND never stab the brakes... it upsets the suspension... you can not arc a curve with an upset suspension..
WELL, you can but you kill all your cornering speed.
my opinion.
Last edited by chuck_thehammer; 01-19-2019 at 04:27 AM.
#11
i do have a question on technique then, on the 180 degree turns, I need to figure a decent way to navigate them. Irregardless of chassis I almost always have to drive them slow, almost stopping(no exactly but it feel like from the drivers stand) I can’t just ease out or into the throttle line I can on the switchbacks.
When you check your lap times, look at trying to get them consistent rather fast, if you can be consistent it makes it easier to notice any setup changes.
#12
Tech Master
deleted
Last edited by chuck_thehammer; 01-19-2019 at 04:46 PM.
#13
Download a known good carpet setup from either petitrc or associated.com and put the settings on your car and maybe get help to dial out a little steering to make it easier to drive. Get a couple of smaller sizes of pinion gears to have gearing options so you don’t overheat your motor, then just drive it. You’ll develop timing and coordination and better depth perception as you gain wheel time.
#14
Hello, I'm running a RC10B6.1 Factory Lite on carpet. I'm using a Reedy S+ 17.5T motor with a HobbyWing XR10 Justock ESC. All of my shocks have 30 WT oil inside them.
I have a result from my last race (first time racing for me):
(I came 6th out of 7, and that was because one guy crashed)
Carpet track, medium size, high to very high grip.
One person recommended using 32.5 WT to 35 WT shock oil in my front shocks to corner better. Would 50WT help me more?
Also, would I need a stiffer spring? I'm currently using the stock AE springs that came in my kit (white).
Another thing: Would positive camber help me out? My camber on the front and rear are neutral. My rear is toe-in, though.
Positive camber is /---\ if you look at the buggy from the front, correct? Positive camber gives you more turn in? I think I need more turn in if I'm not mistaken.
I have a 10cm wide custom front wing mounted behind my shock tower on my buggy. I haven't raced with it yet. It's basically a slightly angled, flat piece of leftover lexan.
Any information is appreciated!
I have a result from my last race (first time racing for me):
(I came 6th out of 7, and that was because one guy crashed)
- I did 14 laps in 5:11.913
- The dude in 5th did 15 laps in 5:04.437
- 4th = 17 laps in 5:13.891
- 3rd = 19 laps, 5:11.344
- 2nd = 19 laps, 5:01.992
- 1st = 20 laps, 5:12.333
Carpet track, medium size, high to very high grip.
One person recommended using 32.5 WT to 35 WT shock oil in my front shocks to corner better. Would 50WT help me more?
Also, would I need a stiffer spring? I'm currently using the stock AE springs that came in my kit (white).
Another thing: Would positive camber help me out? My camber on the front and rear are neutral. My rear is toe-in, though.
Positive camber is /---\ if you look at the buggy from the front, correct? Positive camber gives you more turn in? I think I need more turn in if I'm not mistaken.
I have a 10cm wide custom front wing mounted behind my shock tower on my buggy. I haven't raced with it yet. It's basically a slightly angled, flat piece of leftover lexan.
Any information is appreciated!
#15
practice,,,
practice,,, not just finger, sight... time frames.. great sight detail for distance comes from PRACTICE... lots of practice.
I have ONE EYE. born that way.
been racing for years... started with real cars ( drag racing then SCCA )...
then amateur motorcycle racing, ( road racing ) ( Mid Ohio Sports Car Course )...( Nelson Ledges Race Way ) both Ohio.
then RC car racing since 1991 ( Indoor Carpet )1/10 and 1/12 scale Pan Car...
1/4 scale RC, banked oval outdoor on blacktop. that;s a 30 pound welded steel tube car running on gasoline. 10 cars on a 350 foot race line.. ( tight quarters ) 50mph real speed.
you talked about car setup.. but provided no information about your knowledge of Driving.. just that you are NEW at RC...
driving is still the Most needed to improve car performance .. and it take years.. and TON's of practice.. its racing.
Remember to have FUN... trying to Hard is NOT GOOD.
NEVER slam the steering wheel to the stop.. first it can brake off the stop.... and most important... it burns off corner speed... ALOT.
do you drive your real car that way ????????????????????
practice,,, not just finger, sight... time frames.. great sight detail for distance comes from PRACTICE... lots of practice.
I have ONE EYE. born that way.
been racing for years... started with real cars ( drag racing then SCCA )...
then amateur motorcycle racing, ( road racing ) ( Mid Ohio Sports Car Course )...( Nelson Ledges Race Way ) both Ohio.
then RC car racing since 1991 ( Indoor Carpet )1/10 and 1/12 scale Pan Car...
1/4 scale RC, banked oval outdoor on blacktop. that;s a 30 pound welded steel tube car running on gasoline. 10 cars on a 350 foot race line.. ( tight quarters ) 50mph real speed.
you talked about car setup.. but provided no information about your knowledge of Driving.. just that you are NEW at RC...
driving is still the Most needed to improve car performance .. and it take years.. and TON's of practice.. its racing.
Remember to have FUN... trying to Hard is NOT GOOD.
NEVER slam the steering wheel to the stop.. first it can brake off the stop.... and most important... it burns off corner speed... ALOT.
do you drive your real car that way ????????????????????
If you are 6 laps behind the #1 in a 20 lap race, I dont think I would bother to much with the car setup. Use your time at the track practicing as much as possible as long as your car is pretty decent to drive. Copy a setup for a similar track and practice a lot and have fun or let one of the fastest guys borrow your car and get setup tips from him/her.
@Chuck_thehammer I'm only 16, and I just got my learner's permit lol. I'm still in high school. I only get to practice RC every friday, and that's for like 20 minutes. I only have 1 battery currently.
As for my knowledge of driving, I do a lot of racing simulators (pales in comparison to what you did in real life, drag racing is awesome), and I often get podium. I use a wheel that gives me about 33 pounds of force feedback.
As for RC driving, I've only been driving for a bit more than a year. I started off with a nitro Slash 2WD for bashing, and I just got my RC10B6.1 last month. I've been practicing at the track for a grand total of about 5 times now.
One question before I buy stuff on AMain hobbies: What shock oil would you suggest for my front, along with springs?