301LikesTeam Associated B74 4wd buggy
08-14-2019, 10:03 AM - Wikipost
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B74 Manual
New parts list Product page petitrc set-up page Pistons explained B64 carry-over parts: - front and rear wheels - springs - pistons - plastic diff gears - shock caps - spring cups - arm mount inserts - ball cups - wing - clamping wheel hexes - generic hardware, tools, fluids - ... Fan mounts: Revolution Design Yokomo YZ-4SF Aluminium Fan Mount RDRP0474 Schelle B74 Fan Mount and Wire Clip SCH1444 (SCH1444-COMBO with Motiv fan) Revolution Design B74 Fan Mount RDRP0495 Aluminum options: front shock tower RDRP0496 rear shock tower RDRP0497 rear hub set RDRP0489 Gear chart: 
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06-14-2019, 10:08 PM
#361
06-14-2019, 10:29 PM
#362
No proof of this, just armchair car designing
. I did traction roll a few times tonight and didn’t break yet, but I will keep the thread updated on my durability “research.”Also, for the weight conscious, 1678g with a low profile battery. My 64 with pucks was 1660 with a regular shorty, so the new car needs a little diet... but it’s a rocket, my fastest b64 lap on our current layout was a 15.3 and I got down to 14.8 already with the fat new car. Not fat... big dogboned?
06-14-2019, 10:38 PM
#363
And because we need more photos, here’s body off weight with a full size shorty.
06-14-2019, 10:49 PM
#364
Consider it a set-up option. Both long should give you maximum droop and a very balanced car. If you want to reduce weight transfer from one end to the other, you can switch to the shorter ones. I think I might try short ones in the front today if my last changes (narrower hexes front vs rear) don't give me the amount of on-power steering I am looking for.
06-15-2019, 12:22 PM
#365
Also really appreciate the new battery strap with a slot for the balance lead to facilitate in car charging. Always hated that about the stock 64 strap. With how fast these new batteries charge, you don't really need to swap batteries. I just blast my pro-teks at 15 amps and thats normally enough time between practice runs. Can always go to 30 amps if needed haha. (Charger limited).
06-15-2019, 12:45 PM
#366
Today I managed to break the front shock tower between the shock and bulkhead mounting holes. The way it looks I guess that the cf layers have not bonded properly, but TBH something had to give. I got a whip totally wrong and the car was flying at high (mod) speed upside down and hit the floor with nothing but the shocks and shock tower. Other than that, the car took a lot of abuse again and was a dream to drive.
This is my preliminary astroturf set-up, enjoy!
This is my preliminary astroturf set-up, enjoy!
06-15-2019, 05:46 PM
#368
It’s on the Heavy side
06-16-2019, 11:42 AM
#369
I think they are trying to really push durability on the new design, the rear arms on the 64 liked to break by the outer hinge pin and we have a new design there. 3 positions on the lower should be enough, and not having to make a wide tunnel for the insert should make the arm stronger.
No proof of this, just armchair car designing
. I did traction roll a few times tonight and didn’t break yet, but I will keep the thread updated on my durability “research.”Also, for the weight conscious, 1678g with a low profile battery. My 64 with pucks was 1660 with a regular shorty, so the new car needs a little diet... but it’s a rocket, my fastest b64 lap on our current layout was a 15.3 and I got down to 14.8 already with the fat new car. Not fat... big dogboned?
06-17-2019, 09:49 AM
#371
Tech Addict
If you have a vertical surface on your receiver you can CA glue a piece of fuel tubing and use that to mount your antenna tube. Not the most 'factory' solution but I suppose it would work.
06-17-2019, 10:28 AM
#372
Back when I used receivers with antenna, I either shoe Goo a tube onside the chassis or I coiled up the wire and shrink tubed it and taped to the side of the esc. For indoor racing, that is fine. If you are outdoor and a huge track, that might not work.
06-17-2019, 10:50 AM
#373
06-17-2019, 04:15 PM
#375
