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Returning to R/C Racing

Old 03-05-2019, 08:16 PM
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Default Returning to R/C Racing

Hi everyone,


My name is Carl, I've been out of the R/C racing scene for about 10 years. A little background on me...I'm now 30 years old, raced MX from age 4 until 12 when I was paralyzed waist-down from a crash during a MX race. A year later I was introduced into R/C racing and was hooked. This was back in 2002. After 2 years I was racing 1/10 pro-stock buggy, pro-stock truck, and 4wd mod. I even got into 1/8 nitro buggy for a couple years. It was the closest I could get to the rush of racing MX in a wheelchair and not worry about injury. I was actually able to get sponsors from Losi, Trinity, and Pro-Line. I raced for several years but eventually I went into college and got busy with school, then building a career, etc. Now I'm 30 years old and finally settled into life and everything that comes with it. The itch to race has been killing me for many years. It's been about 10 years since my last R/C race. All of the 1/8 nitro tracks in my area have pretty much closed down but there is a 1/10 indoor offroad track open nearby that's been doing very well for a long time and I want to get back into racing!


It appears that all of my gear is completed outdated. My 1/10 buggy is a BK-2 1/10 buggy, Losi 4wd, Losi Eight 2.0 1/8 Nitro buggy, and a Matt Francis 1/10 truck. Brush Trinity P2K motors, NiMh batteries, and an old Airtronics M8 Radio, etc. I only want to get into 1/10 electric racing to fit my local track, but I have no clue what all I need to get back into it. I've been researching a lot and to be honest it's a little overwhelming. Everything is brushless now, the batteries are all LiPo it seems, and looking on various website to buy stuff there is endless options. So my question is...what all do I need to be competitive on a local level in the Pro-Stock 1/10 buggy class? What batteries, how many, what charger, what motor and ESC, what type of battery care, etc. I'm dead set on a Losi 22 buggy (sorry but I've never been a fan of Associated). Everything else I'm clueless on. I don't mind spending money on good, quality items that will be highly competitive but in the same sense I don't plan on going to any national races. Just want to be competitive on a local level in the pro-stock class. Please help me out with what I can research and what to look into or avoid. I only plan on racing the 1 class.


Thanks very much. If anyone happens to remember me from the Capital R/C or Prairie City/Rescue/Marysville days, say hello
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Old 03-06-2019, 01:42 AM
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I literally went down a very similar road in January. I raced up until 2004 and got the bug in January. Raced 10th scale electric as a kid (I have a Losi XXX and XXX-T), I have a tool box full of old Trinity 27 turn amateurs still lol. Getting ready for my third race night tomorrow. I am by no means an expert on everything but I can tell what I personally did in this first month of getting back into it and I will link some products I have purchased as well.

So the TLDR of the situation for us is that life in some ways are much easier. Battery games arent so much of a thing anymore (Thank god no dead celling) and motor care with brushes and turning comms isnt a thing and is much easier.

Car choice you said you want a TLR and you have 2 reasonable options: Get a new TLR 22 5.0 kit or buy a used roller of the 22 4.0. TLR just came out with the 5.0 2wd buggy in the last couple months and because of that the used market is REALLY good on the 4.0s. Not uncommon to 4.0 rollers in the $100-$150 price range. One of the big changes is buggies are all mid motor now and not rear and that does have a pretty considerable change on how the buggy drives. I personally got a deal on a 4.0 roller and I dont feel the car is holding me back at all since I am still learning everything. You say moneys a non issue to a certain extent and I think either way you go isnt a bad thing. The 5.0 gets you the latest/greatest, The used 4.0 leaves you an extra couple hundred bucks to play with.

Batteries are a little more complex and I will be honest I am not entirely up to speed on all the tech. With that said, from you coming from NiMh there are 2 things you will love: cooler temps and longer run times. When I bought the car the gentlemen (Name is Cuda. Youll see him round the forums, cool dude) I bought it from picked up I was new/getting back into it and put together a combo deal for the car, charger, and 2 used batteries. The batteries he gave me were the previous gen R1 Wurks 70c 4600 MAH batteries. I also bought a single race battery which is a Pro-Tek 4900 Mah 120 c battery. I will be honest, I dont notice HUGE differences between the 2 used packs and the new one. With that said I am also not playing battery games either with discharging and charging at high amperage that I know some stock guys are doing and am likely not getting everything out of them, specifically the Pro-Tek. The biggest change is I think just the weight and the Pro Tek is definitely lighter and narrower so the center of gravity is slightly lower. Another battery that a couple guys have recommended is a gens ace for practice packs. They seemed weight wise more in line with the protek, and he even let me run one of his packs in my car so I could compare and again didnt notice any crazy differences. Theres likely other good brands such as Trinity (And others I may not even know currently) but just my experiences. As for number of batteries, I can get semi constant track time with 3 on a rotation. It is not safe to keep Lipo batteries charged for long periods. If I know I am going to race I will generally charge the 2 practice packs in the couple hours before I leave and will start the Pro Tek as I am getting my pit area setup (Its my "expensive" race battery so I am a tad more cautious with it. Just make sure to get shortys as its all you have room for in the buggies really.

Used Battery I got with the car: https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=6354
Race battery I/many guys at my track (SDRC) are running: https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...102-19/p846160
Battery a gentlemen suggested to me and let me try which I liked:
Amazon Amazon

Chargers: I will be honest, I know fuck all lol. I got a slightly old school Hyperion with the car and many people at the track have commented that its a good charger. Theres a lot of talk about charge rates in racing and its one of the things I have sort of ignored performance wise and have gone on the "safety" side of things. One thing to note when charging lipos is many people talk about the Cs you charge at. The way you calculate a C is simply the MAH of your battery/1000. Take that number, charge at that many amps and you are charging at 1c. So if I have a 4600 MAH battery, the charge rate for 1c is 4.6 amps. Higher charge rates will I believe give better charge times but theres limitations on what batteries and chargers can handle. I personally charge at 1c. From storage voltage to fully charged is about 40 mins. But like I said I have heard of huge variances in charging methods and may change in the future. Im just doing this as its likely it wont explode stuff xD

One slight thing on batteries and charging: Make for god damn sure you are on LIPO mode on what ever charger you get. NiMh and LIPO batteries charge differently. If I recall correctly, the way NiMh batteries charge is, when they peak there is a dip in voltage. Chargers would watch for this dip, see it, and then ding "Ready!". LIPOS dont feature this dip, and because of that the charger will never stop and your battery will explode/light on fire.

Radio: Radio tech has improved a TON. We dont need to bother with crystals and frequency clips anymore. Modern radios simply sync to the receiver and you're gucci. Futaba and Sanwa/Airtronics seem to be the big brands. I personally bought a used MT4 and am happy with it. The Futaba 3pv is seen as one of the go to entry level receivers along with the comparable Sanwa system being the MX6. You can also check the used market and keep an eye out for these: Futaba 4PV, 4PX, 4PLS or Sanwa M12, M12S, MT44, MT-S

Servos: Another point I didnt really research a super amount. Many people suggested this for entry level and given the price and performance it may very well be the last thing I upgrade:
Amazon Amazon

ESC: For stock racing the Hobbywing Justock is popular for the price and what I have. Note the 60a speed controls will likely only handle the 17.5 turn motors without going poof.
Amazon Amazon

Motor: What motor choice came down for me was simply one of the guys at the hobby store suggested it and ran it in his own car. He had been helpful before and I chose what he was running the Tekin Spec R 17.5t. The car has more then enough power for me in the stock division. Motor timing is a big thing in the stock class. They come out of the box at a moderate value in the mid 20s. Guys who are really pushing it are up in the 50s which gives a bunch of power but generates a lot of heat. When you adjust timing theres 2 things you need to look at: amp draw and temperature. I have mine set a little more conservatively at like 45 degrees and still run a fan and I do not notice any fade over the run. The temperature most people look for is 150 degrees. You want to be under that. Really as far as motors go just get a current gen one as the magnets make them real quick. Only brand I would likely not suggest is Trinity purely because their monster max motors were taken off the Roar approved list for 17.5 and some local tracks banned them as well, but seems their x factor motor will be legal and may have no issues (I ran trinity as a kid so have no biases against them. If anyone in the future reads this know that's less a review of Trinity and more the current situation of not wanting OP to buy a motor just to find out its banned when he gets to the track). YMMV though. Id suggest going to the track and talking to guys and see what all they run and what they do as far as timing is concerned. Keep in mind the timing values for my Tekin may not apply if you go with another company.

Motor I bought: https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...RoCURkQAvD_BwE

Link to Trinity press release: http://roarracing.com/blog/media/190...r175_Feb28.pdf

Random tidbit: Note that where I run is an indoor clay track that is pretty smooth and has high bite. One big part of the hobby for indoor tracks is tire prep and tire saucing. I cant comment on the tire you should run as IDK where youll be running and have no idea what the surface is like, but the tire sauce people like down here is Liquid Wrench penetrating oil, comes in a black, white, and yellow bottle. Without it traction is much worse. Walmart sells 11 oz spray bottles for like $3 each (I just bought 2 and it was like $8.60). The method I have found that works best for me is applying the sauce to the tire and letting it sit for 10 minutes before going out, letting it mostly dry off. I have found that is most consistent for me. At times I wont even really wash the,. Some others talk about tire washing every run, some using simple green and saucing the tires and going out with the tires still wet (10 minute soak, add 2nd coat, and let sit for just a couple mins then go out). For me when I tried washing and taking the car out with the tires wet I struggled for consistency. Sometimes the grip was amazing, other times the car all over the place. Not saying those other methods dont work, this is just worked best for me. The yellow liquid wrench does break down the foams as its quite aggressive. I have a set of rears atm that the tread itself is fine but the foams have come apart internally. I have heard the blue liquid wrench ( isnt quite as aggressive. I initially tried it and wasnt a fan though that was before I found my consistent method, I will give it another try. Have also heard of WD40 being popular. There are also RC specific traction compounds but I havent tried any of them.

Liquid wrench penetrating oil: https://www.walmart.com/ip/LIQUID-WR...RoC0SIQAvD_BwE

Liquid Wrench Lubricating oil: https://www.walmart.com/ip/LIQUID-WR...hoCJJsQAvD_BwE

WD40 tire test this guy did on youtube:
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Old 03-06-2019, 06:01 AM
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As both of you have already mentioned, things have changed quite a bit in the last couple of years. For your information, TLR is not operated by the Losi family. New brands have emerged and others have turned their focus on previously uncharted water. If you are open to other brands, I'd recommend checking out Yokomo and Xray, too. Xray release an updated kit every year in November, Yokomo usually in April.
Trinity are still going strong when it comes to motors and batteries. There are also many other good stock motors, e.g. Schuur Speed and R1Wurks, and the guys behind Team Orion recently launched the brand Performa Racing, that will release their new stock motors very soon. Everyone of these except Schuur Speed also offers great batteries. As Gens Ace has also been mentioned, their RS line of batteries is very good, but I'd stay away from the older ones.
When it comes to chargers, Junsi's iChargers are the most popular ones I think. Competitive stock racers charge and discharge their batteries at high rates to lower the battery's internal resistance. The iCharger 406 Duo can charge and discharge at up to 40 amps. You may want to check out Ryan Harris' youtube channel for some basic information on battery treatment for stock racing. IIRC he also returned to racing after a several year hiatus, but made the switch from Losi to AE.
For stock racing I'd recommend Hobbywing's XR10 Pro Stock, which is more expensive than their entry level Justock unit. Airtronics radios used to be the same as the ones of their parent company Sanwa, which are still on the market today. Their latest top level transmitter was just released (M17), but if you are looking for a decent less expensive option, its predecessor (M12S) or their mid-price model (MT44) will also do their job. Futaba's latest models are the 7PX-R and 4PM. There are many good servos out there, either by the radio manufacturers or e.g. MKS, PowerHD, HighestRC. Protek is an Amainhobbies brand that offers equipment made by various OEM companies, usually pretty good stuff.
If you need to refill your tool box, I'd suggest MIP or Arrowmax.
I hope my suggestions are helpful to you, have fun!
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Old 03-06-2019, 08:27 AM
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TLR22-5.0 is a great platform for clay tracks, if you ever decide to run on carpet/turf then I would consider XRay or PR Racing which seem to be the top dogs on turf over in the EU.

Battery - check track rules to see if they require ROAR approved, many tracks simply limit to 8.4V where LiHV cells tend to provide lower IR than traditional LiPo packs. You still charge the LiHV pack to 8.4V even though it's rated to be charged at 8.7V, for the most part it doesn't matter much which brand of battery just make sure you get a 100C+ pack. I typically go with whoever has what I need in stock for the lowest price at the time I need new packs, some sources I use in no particular order: ProMatch Racing, SMC and RC Juice

Charger - any charger with an IR meter is what I would recommend, iCharger is pretty much the standard, but for a tight budget I have had pretty good luck with the Charsoon-Antimatter-300W-20A
New cells generally start around 1mΩ and I like to retire my packs when any individual cell goes above 8mΩ.

Servo - many pro drivers recommend a servo rated between 0.08 to 0.12 sec/60, every driver has a different reaction time so this is just a general ballpark, any brand of servo is fine so long as you can find replacement metal gear sets for it, I am having good luck with SRT and EcoPower brands.

Radio - any radio with "steering speed" adjustment is my single most important requirement, this allows you to fine tune a servo that might be too fast for your reaction time and will help dial in your car to prevent traction rolls, etc Futaba and Sanwa are solid choices but if you plan to run multiple classes they tend to be a bit pricey on extra Rx's, that's why I choose to run the Graupner X-8E which has GR-4 Rx's for around $30. I would caution that some brands of radios offer steering speed control, but are glitchy depending on brand of ESC/Servo with Spektrum being more problematic of the radios I've seen having difficulty getting this feature to work properly. Most radios less than $150 will not typically offer a fully functional "steering speed" feature.

Motor - check local track rules to see if they require ROAR approved motor, many clubs allow "outlaw" motors and currently the Trinity Punisher is the fastest stock motor we've seen at the club in my area, allowing this motor has pretty much ended the motor war with a low cost option.

ESC - HobbyWing makes some really good quality products and the Justock was a great low budget option that worked well on clay tracks, but I found the brake strength just wasn't strong enough to be competitive after our club switched to a turf track. More importantly, the Justock would experience brownouts when using a high power Punisher with a high power Savox servo, the 2A BEC just wasn't strong enough to power a high power motor cooling fan That's where I would recommend any ESC with at least a 3A BEC to play it safe... with the XR10 StockSpec being the next step up in price/quality to fit the needs for most stock racers.
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Last edited by billdelong; 03-06-2019 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 03-06-2019, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
TLR22-5.0 is a great platform for clay tracks, if you ever decide to run on carpet/turf then I would consider XRay or PR Racing which seem to be the top dogs on turf over in the EU.
.
While I personally know of a father and daughter team running PR cars and am aware of a decent amount of drivers in the UK, I'd not consider PR Racing one of the top dogs on turf. Depending on regional preferences, Associated, Schumacher, Xray, and Yokomo are the most popular, with a few Kyoshos remaining mostly in the UK and France to my knowledge. David Ronnefalk keeps waving the HB Racing flag, and I'll give the D219 a try when it arrives later this year. Several of my friends support TLR and they have done quite well with the 22 4.0 but are still adjusting to the 5.0. There are more differences than meet the eye at first glance!
For someone returning to the hobby after a few years, one of the biggest brands with a good level of support will probably the best choice, i.e. AE, TLR, Xray, and Yokomo.

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Old 03-06-2019, 10:23 AM
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Being a losi fan go with a tlr5.0sr (stock racer) . If on a budget go with hobbywing justock esc but the xr10 pro stock is what i would suggest and what I run . for a motor just make sure its one of the newer "low resistance" 17.5 , I run a reedy S+ and really like it but there are tons of good 17.5s . servo i would suggest a protek 160t probably one of the best you can get for the $ . since you used a m8 before i would suggest you stick with sanwa . honesty all the sanwa radios are good so just pick one that you like or fits your budget . If you don't ever want to change your charger down the road i would get a icharger otherwise just get something that has a ohm reading and charges at 10a or more . Battery's I prefer protek very good packs but also have had good luck with reedy packs also . If you have a local hobby shop or your track has a shop see what they carry and suggest before making any decisions .
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Old 03-06-2019, 10:32 AM
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Kit: 22 5.0 SR
Charger: Junsi Icharger
Motor: any latest gen stock motor (I like the Tekin spec r)
Esc: I would look at the tekin rs pro black or the hobbywing XR10 pro stock. The justock is ok but I've been told breaking is a little weak.
Servo: anything with under 0.09 speed and 130 oz/in. The savox 1258 is a good budget and the protek 160t is very nice as well.
Radio: whatever racing brand you like. The sanwa MT44 and the futaba 4PV are both great choices.

Spend the rest if your money on tires and spare parts. Have fun!
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Old 03-06-2019, 01:49 PM
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Thank you guys very much for the replies, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it especially all of the in-depth detail. I'm the type that would rather spend a little more money on great equipment that I won't worry about outgrowing or needing to soon upgrade over. When I last raced I had the best of everything and will admit I spent way too much on it lol. That was before I had to worry about bills! I'm glad you guys are giving me some options to be pro-stock competitive but not go overboard. I plan on spending some time at the local track to get my feet wet again and chat with some guys, I just don't want to go in totally clueless lol. Plus I know it's going to be nearly impossible to not come out of there with something to get me started again. I don't mind buying some things used but I'll be honest with you, I have a hard time buying a car that I didn't build myself. This goes back to my MX days. Not only do I have a blast building the kit, but it's sort of a personal connection you make with the car (or dirtbike) when you get it brand new and build it up from scratch. This is what I'm kind of looking at the most right now....

Car - TLR 22 5.0
Charger - iCharger
ESC - Hobbywing XR10 Pro Stock
Servo - I'm really liking the Sanwa/Airtronics ERS-961 High Speed Titanium Gear. Seems to be similar to what I ran in all my old 1/10 cars. I also really like the Protek 160 that Racer56556 mentioned.
Radio - I'm liking both the Sanwa/Airtronics MT-44 and the M12. The M12 might have a little too many bells & whistles to justify my needs and an extra $70.

I think for batteries and motor, I may just have to find out a lot more at the local track so I know what is or isn't allowed. Plus - I don't want to end up racing a class with only 4 other guys, I'd like to be in the majority so I have some competition. I remember like back in 2003 or 2004 I got my first XXX-4 (after Francis won the worlds with it) and it was super popular at the local track for like a year, everyone wanted to run 4wd mod... then all of the sudden you could barely get 3 guys in the mod 4wd buggy class.

Oh also - this may sound like a dumb question but when I was racing, we would directly solder the ESC to the battery for every single drive - literally each time I went out on the track I had to re-solder my battery pack to the ESC. I didn't use any connectors or plugs as to lower any chance of resistance and rob me of power. I had my motor directly soldered to the ESC also. It was a pain in the *** to do this with every battery and because I would usually cut the coms & brushes on my motors after 3 runs, but in the spirit of high performance it was worth it. So my question....does that matter anymore? Is anything directly soldered or do you guys use plugs/connectors for everything? Do you guys use any of the other things like safe-charging bags, voltage regulators, etc.

Thanks again for the replies, it's been a huge help and really getting me back into feeling like I know a thing or two lol.
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Old 03-06-2019, 05:17 PM
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Oh I should also add that my local track is clay. Indoor, offroad hard packed clay, pretty much the same track conditions as you Chenstrap. My old local track was virtually the same so I'm very familiar with it (the building is literally a stone's throw from the old track that closed - industrial building). I used to clean the tires after every run and use Brian Kinwald tire sauce liquid I believe it was. Is that the main difference between the TLR 22 5.0 editions? One for clay, carpet, turf, etc. I see on the website it has 3 models, (DC, AC, SR) and appears the DC would be my best option.

Edit - I posted a much longer response before this but I guess it's being reviewed by a moderator before it shows...must be from me having a new account/low posting count.
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Old 03-06-2019, 07:22 PM
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I would look at the SR if your running stock classes. It somes with the lightened drivetrain and slipper eliminator that you want for stock racing.
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Old 03-06-2019, 11:17 PM
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Hey everyone,

I posted a long response earlier today while at work, I'm not sure why it isn't showing except maybe having a new account it has to be approved by a mod??? Anyways...

Thank you all very much for the replies. I've read every word of every reply and it has really helped me get some direction with my research. I spent every free moment I had at work today and home tonight looking over all of the suggestions, reading online reviews, etc. I even pulled a couple of my old cars out of the closet just to see how amazed I am at the differences from 10 years ago to now! I literally have 12 packs of 6 cell NiMh Trinity batteries all for waste now (I have 12 because I raced 2wd, 4wd, and stadium truck) along with a huge box full of old P2K Pro Motors and armatures. I was showing everything to my fiance for the first time and she was blown away at how incredible these cars are. We've been together 4 years but this was the first she's seen any of my r/c stuff.

As I mentioned before, my local track is an indoor, offroad, hard packed clay surface. I plan on going to the track soon to ask about what the most popular class is, battery type/size, motor, etc. but looking at their facebook page it appears the 17.5t 2wd buggy makes up the large majority as I expected. Here's a rundown of all the "basic" items I'm leaning towards to get started, let me know what you guys think and if you have any more suggestions or pros/cons to these items. Remember, my goal is to get back into Pro-Stock and be competitive but I'm not planning on going to the worlds anytime soon lol.

Car - TLR 22 5.0 SR
Radio - Sanwa/Airtronics MT-44
ESC - Hobbywing XR 10 Pro Stock Spec V4
Motor - Tekin Redline G3 Spec-R 17.5t
Servo - Sanwa/Airtronics ERS-961 High Speed Titanium Gear
Charger - Junsi iCharger 406 DUO with Brick Power Supply.
Battery - ProTek RC 2S 120C Si Graphene + HV Shorty (7.6v/4900mah)

I'm not sure if I would need 2 or 3 batteries, if I need a lipo charging bag, what connectors to use, or if I need any other battery accessories. Hopefully you can help.

Something else I really hope you can help me with....I come from the days of "direct soldering"...meaning I would directly solder my battery to the ESC every single time I went out for a run. This was a major pain in the *** but in the name of better performance, it's what we all did. Do you still have to do that or does everyone now use connectors? I always had to have a hot iron on the table because I was swapping out motors after every 3 runs (to re-cut the comms on my little lathe) and for every single time I swapped out the battery, which was for every run of course. I know things have changed a lot but I don't know if this has.

Thanks again for all the help and advice. Trust me I read every word and appreciate all the help!
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Old 03-07-2019, 12:03 AM
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The batteries have bullet connector holes. Semi common setup is a Dean's plug on the ESC and 2 bullets to a dean connector that go on the battery side.

Truth be told in the in4ace days and half a dozen or so practice days I've run I dont think ive seen a soldering iron on anyone's table.
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Old 03-07-2019, 01:00 AM
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I have bullets soldered onto my esc battery wires which is what everyone does at my club. Most people have a soldering iron with them but they very rarely come out, I don't take one.

I just have a battery per car, theres always time between races to top up the battery and I only charge at 5amps. Some people have multiple batteries per car but it isn't necessary. I did buy a couple of spares to give me more practice when the track didnt have power available, and have now replaced my first set of batteries so have kept the old ones for practice.

The MT44 is a great radio but given you're aiming to get to the top would you be better with the M12? I think they did the M12RS or something which has the response rate etc of the M12S but cut out some features.
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Old 03-07-2019, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by CMadsen_24 View Post
Car - TLR 22 5.0 SR
Radio - Sanwa/Airtronics MT-44
ESC - Hobbywing XR 10 Pro Stock Spec V4
Motor - Tekin Redline G3 Spec-R 17.5t
Servo - Sanwa/Airtronics ERS-961 High Speed Titanium Gear
Charger - Junsi iCharger 406 DUO with Brick Power Supply.
Battery - ProTek RC 2S 120C Si Graphene + HV Shorty (7.6v/4900mah)

I'm not sure if I would need 2 or 3 batteries, if I need a lipo charging bag, what connectors to use, or if I need any other battery accessories. Hopefully you can help.
Your shopping list looks solid to me, I typically race with only 1 pack per class and I charge my packs in the chassis to save time, both of these methods are not considered best practice. Generally, most folks will race with 2 packs and swap between rounds... this can be very useful if you are in a lower main and get a bump spot, seen many times where a racer can't get his pack charged in time for the bump into a higher Main.

Most folks will typically purchase packs with in-line bullets either with 4mm or 5mm slots.... I don't always use the same brand of battery so I use reducers that go from 5mm to 4mm and install 4mm slotted bullets on all my ESC's... if I ever get into a weird bump situation, I can typically borrow a pack from another car in a pinch. I also try to get packs with "through-way" slots so that pack can be flipped over to reverse polarity if necessary... there is no industry standard for the polarity placement on packs. This becomes important if you decide to shorten the ESC leads to prevent from accidentally reversing the polarity as there is no reverse protection on most brands of ESC's... first thing I always check when new racer shows up to the track is to help them shorten their power leads to eliminate any chance of reversing polarity

Don't buy "cage style" bullets, they tend to crush and wear too quickly, not uncommon to see folks to momentarily lose power after landing from a jump and the first thing I check is for a loose connector. You should be able to tug on the wire going into the pack and it should be able to pretty much lift the weight of the car, if it slides out effortlessly, then they need to be spread out with a small phillips screw driver to revive the strength of the connection, not necessary to direct solder to batteries anymore, however most folks will typically direct solder from ESC to motor with shortest wiring path possible.

Of the handful of LiPo fires that I've seen in the pit room of the club in our area, almost every case was a racer who was boosting their LiPo by charging in NiMh mode and forgot to watch voltage and walked away... most cases these guys had an aluminum chassis and little to no damage occurred to their vehicle, something like having to replace a battery strap, etc... not trying to negate the dangers with LiPo, they did produce an open flame which can potentially spread to other structures, but you typically have about 10-15 seconds of billowing smoke to get the pack/car outside before open flame begins to take shape, if not charging in a vehicle to easily carry a smoking pack, then having a LiPo bag is A LOT easier to toss outside the pit room.... there have been times where I've had to kick a fireball several times to get it out of the pit room and I wished it was either in a car or LiPo bag... shrug

Last edited by billdelong; 03-07-2019 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 03-07-2019, 06:32 AM
  #15  
mes
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The MT44 is absolutely ok, I don't think the M12 series has any advantage unless you are left-handed, prefer the feel of a "real" drop-down and/or angled steering wheel or don't like light transmitters .Futaba's mid-price 4PV and 4PM can be converted using steering wheel drop-down and angle adapters, and just like Sanwa exchangable grips are available in various sizes. When I last used Sanwa servos, I was not a huge fan, but it's been a while and they might have better gears today.
As for the LiPo bag, you should check with your local track. I haven't been to a track that allows charging your battery inside the car, but I am told some places in the US have no issues with it. You will probably not need a soldering station on your desk, but if you have to swap a motor or esc at short notice, it will be handy. I usually set up mine as a service to my fellow club members when I go racing, there may be a similar guy sitting near your table in the pits.
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