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The Dilemma:  TLR 22 5.0 SR vs Team Associated RC10 B6.1 Team Kit >

The Dilemma: TLR 22 5.0 SR vs Team Associated RC10 B6.1 Team Kit

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The Dilemma: TLR 22 5.0 SR vs Team Associated RC10 B6.1 Team Kit

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Old 02-21-2019, 10:51 PM
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Default The Dilemma: TLR 22 5.0 SR vs Team Associated RC10 B6.1 Team Kit

Currently, all my vehicles are 4WD. I've got a 1/10 stadium truck (Rustler), 1/10 short course truck (Slash), and 1/8 buggy (TLR 8ight-XE, although this one isn't actually built, yet). The owner of the LHS & track thinks is do good running 2WD, especially a buggy. Of course, as many of you probably already know, the 2WD buggy classes are the most competitive.

Thankfully, being competitive, I always enjoy a challenge. However, my first "challenge" is deciding what to get. I've gone ahead and purchased a 2WD SC truck (Team Associated RC10 SC6.1), so you should be able to tell I have no 'preference' between AE & TLR, as I'll already have one of each. Looking over potential possibilities, I've narrowed them down to these two models - 22 5.0 SE & RC10 B6.1 Team Kit.

I'm hoping there are at least a few people out there who have hands-on experience with both vehicles, and can answer these questions:

1) Which of these two would be best for an indoor clay/dirt track, specifically in how they handle jumps, turns, etc? I realize that each company also had specific models designed for clay/dirt, but I'm asking only between these two specific models.

2) What are the pros/cons of each vehicle?

3) Material & strength-wise, which should be the better, longer-lasting vehicle?

4) Finally, given the choice, based on personal preference AND hands-on experience, which vehicle would you pick, AND why?
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Old 02-22-2019, 04:01 AM
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I don't think you'll find many people having owned both and providing comments here...

What you will get though is a bunch from answers of people who will tell you how much they like one so much more than the other, and how happy they are they purchased the one they purchased!

I don't think you can go wrong with either, but what do I know, really.

I would recommend you buy what's most popular at your track, so you can share spares, setups and other tips with your fellow competitive racers

have fun,

Paul
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Old 02-22-2019, 05:31 AM
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I don't run 2WD anymore (for many reasons) but I used to run a TLR22 3.0 a couple years back and it was one of the fastest cars of its time on a prepped clay track... what I noticed was that it would generate better grip on days where the track surface got dusty or if humidity kicked in, I'd see other folks complaining about grip but for me it was like shooting fish in barrel on those types of days because my traction was just as good as any other race day, ha! Now when traction was at its peak, then it was a crap shoot and the faster drivers would typically eat my lunch, mostly because they were better skilled than me at the time. Eventually the club would switch to turf and then Losi became almost non-existent over night, for super high traction surface (like turf) that's where most folks have turned to Associated and XRay... I see more XRay's running 2WD at the club in my area than any other brand.... there's a local pro who can run his 17.5T XB2 faster than anyone else's 4WD stock, no joke!
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:50 AM
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I had the opposite experience going from the TLR 22 3.0 to the B6 (both stand-up trans). I found the B6 to be easier and more predictable when traction dropped, but until changing it to (mostly) a B6.1d configuration, I couldn't get the steering necessary.

I have no direct experience with the 22 5.0 but the ones I've seen run look very good, but so did the 4.0.

If you are looking at the "SR" model of the TLR, you should be comparing the B6.1 "FL" to it. The FL is the kit designated for stock racing, with a lighter weight driveline + slipper eliminator and laydown transmission, but still a ball diff for dirt racing.
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
If you are looking at the "SR" model of the TLR, you should be comparing the B6.1 "FL" to it. The FL is the kit designated for stock racing, with a lighter weight driveline + slipper eliminator and laydown transmission, but still a ball diff for dirt racing.
My mistake...yes, I meant the Factory Lite. Yesterday afternoon (before I even typed my post), after narrowing down my AE choices, I called them, as I was trying to decide between 90020, 90021 & 90022. After going over the layout of the local track (a fairly even balance of straights & turns, flats & jumps), and the average year-round conditions of the clay (firm & moist in winter, firm & lightly dusty but still moist in summer...there's an overhead misting system), he suggested/recommended the Factory Lite.

As for "hands-on" experience with both, I realize this will apply to very few people, primarily because the 22 5.0 was just released last month...but, I am certain that there are several who have at least tried both...even if they only spent 5-15 minutes with the 22 5.0 - but, the question is, how many of them actually read this forum, and how many would be willing/interested to reply. To be honest, I am leaning slightly towards one (just won't say which, so as to not "sway" any potential replies), but I'd still like to hear from both 'sides'. But, yes, it's between the B6.1 Factory Lite, and the 22 5.0 SR. After A VERY long work day, guess my brain wasn't firing on all pistons as I typed...lol.

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Old 02-22-2019, 10:40 AM
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If you already have a sc6.1 get the b6.1. You'll carry almost all the same spares except for arms and rear hubs. Maintenence on the 6.1 will also be easier because it has the quick access diff while the 5.0 does not.
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:22 AM
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I owned a B6.1D that had all the parts a FL would have minus lighter diff and pucks, and now have a 22 5.0 SR. I race a class below expert, so I can churn out some good laps but I still don't have enough experience to give an opinion that is very reliable. But here's what I say:

You'll enjoy either one. If your track/LHS supports both AE and TLR like mine does, there will be parts support and drivers willing to help out with setup. I put down fast laps with the B6.1D and now the 5.0 SR after some setup changes, with the same electronics. My B6.1D was heavier but didn't have the lightened driveline parts that come with the Factory Lite, and I have some titanium upgrade parts on my 5.0 SR, so I'm guessing they would come out to a similar weight box stock. Both builds are simple, but you might need a M3 tap to thread the holes in the TLR's plastics, or at least use a good amount of grease and have quality hex drivers.

Both buggies drive excellent, especially after tuning the cars for the most grip depending on your track. My local track is sauce heavy, misted, doesn't work with slicks/semi slicks and can be pretty dynamic without frequent sweeping, so more rear flex and weight bias helps, not sure about yours. I think the main difference in the cars are the way they absorb landings and their steering, but I'm not sure which you could claim is better.

Both buggies are very durable. In roughly 5 months of driving the B6.1D, my only breakage was a cracked rear arm, which I didn't even notice till I got home that day. Haven't broken anything on the 5.0 SR yet either, however TLR wings are a lot more durable than the kit AE wing or the Jconcepts Aero I replaced it with. Even the front wing on the TLR hasn't shown any signs of wear yet. My AE, while durable, did develop a lot of slop in the steering and front suspension. The TLR is still kinda new, so I'll see how that develops.

The B6.1D wins on ease of maintenance just for the easy access differential. Before I learned that the 5.0 SR diff requires A LOT of black grease in the thrust bearing compartment in order to stay lubricated, having to take apart the transmission just to get to it was a pain in the ass.

Features I prefer on the TLR include the rubber battery straps, built in fan mount, locknut secured bottom mount for the rear shocks, double plastic shields for the spur gear, no screws for the direct drive assembly, and steel dogbones.

At my track there are fast AE drivers and fast TLR drivers, so it's normal for this decision to be difficult. I really enjoyed my B6.1D, but I don't regret switching to the 5.0 SR, so I can't say in good faith that one is the clear winner. If I were you I would head to the track and see if you can find some drivers of both and borrow their radios, or at least get some more opinions in person.
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Old 02-22-2019, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
there's a local pro who can run his 17.5T XB2 faster than anyone else's 4WD stock, no joke!
Funny, us stock 2wd guys are typically faster then the 13.5 4wd guys...small indoor carpet track.
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Old 02-22-2019, 12:45 PM
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Iíve got both and drive at the same track as you, honestly it doesnít matter.
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Old 02-22-2019, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC View Post
Iíve got both and drive at the same track as you, honestly it doesnít matter.
At the same track as me? Or as Rexracing?
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Old 02-22-2019, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by I_NeedBigDrink View Post
I owned a B6.1D...and now have a 22 5.0 SR...I still don't have enough experience to give an opinion...But here's what I say:

If your track/LHS supports both AE and TLR...there will be parts support and drivers willing to help out with setup...My B6.1D was heavier...and I have some titanium upgrade parts on my 5.0 SR...I'm guessing they would come out to a similar weight box stock. Both buggies drive excellent, especially after tuning the cars for the most grip depending on your track...I think the main difference in the cars are the way they absorb landings, & steering...not sure which you could claim is better.

Both buggies are very durable...only B6.1D breakage was a cracked rear arm. Haven't broken anything on the 5.0 SR yet...TLR wings are a lot more durable than AE wing...front wing on the TLR hasn't shown any signs of wear yet...AE, while durable, did develop a lot of slop in the steering and front suspension. B6.1D wins on ease of maintenance just for the easy access differential. Features I prefer on the TLR include battery straps, fan mount, locknut secured bottom mount for the rear shocks, double plastic shields for the spur gear, no screws for the direct drive assembly, and steel dogbones.
First, hope you don't mind my paraphrasing your reply (to save space). Second, thanks for the very informative, unbiased reply. As I said, I knew there would be people who've had hands-on with both vehicles. A seasoned driver/racer doesn't need to spend "hours" with a vehicle to answer questions such as those I asked. The owner of the LHS & track spent less than 10min driving my Rustler 4x4, and he was easily able to tell what I had done right, what I needed to dial in, and what I needed to repair (unbeknownst to me, a front suspension turnbuckle had popped out from the ball, and he could tell by the sound...no sight involved).

Anyway...getting back to the subject at hand...you make some very good points for both vehicles, which is exactly what I wanted...I wasn't looking for a "Ford vs Chevy" debate (and, don't even think about starting in on Honda vs Toyota...Toyota wins). Between what you said, plus what I've read elsewhere, plus review videos I've been watching, the"winner" is.........the TLR 22 5.0

TLR does a better job of packaging parts (no parts for different build sections packages together, like AE does). Not counting the DC & SR sections of the build manual, TLR's directions are more clearly laid out, plus it's easier to understand their hop-up options. I realize the diff is harder to access, but there are so many other 'positives', they seem to outweigh the 'negatives'.

As for the "they're both the same" comments...no, they've not...they're no more "the same" than Ford & Chevy, or Honda & Toyota.
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Old 02-22-2019, 05:25 PM
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I think the comment, "they're the same" is realistic insofar as you should not expect that your performance will be measurably better with one vs. the other. Both are pretty dialed and we'll supported. While the diff is easier to get at in the B6.1, you hardly ever need to. If you're racing a lot it'll still be less than once a month.
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:51 PM
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No problem. I agree^ now that I have got the diff sorted out, I don't anticipate taking it out for a long while, and the extra steps aren't that bad if you're doing it once a month or less. And yes, they're not the same, they are different platforms that both have potential for success on the track. Now that you've decided, have fun building and racing!
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:25 PM
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If your getting a sc6.1 or already have on then get the b6.1 because 85-90% of the parts cross over so you cut the number of spares you carry in half.
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Di_spencer View Post
If your getting a sc6.1 or already have on then get the b6.1 because 85-90% of the parts cross over so you cut the number of spares you carry in half.
Already ordered the 22 5.0, plus it's already shipped.
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