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TLR 8ight X-E

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Old 02-16-2019, 09:44 PM
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Oopsie... Double post.
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Old 02-16-2019, 09:44 PM
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I had my first race on my X today. The kit setup it definitely not for indoors, so I stood up the shocks on the arms, and went with 37.5 all around. Not the ideal setup, but I made do with what was available to me. I ran 26F/27R ride height, -1.5 all around. All I can say is this thing rotates. A lot. But she rips! I lead the entire B main by half a lap... until a bad tumble knocked me back to third.
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
Thanks, but no longer necessary, now that I know the parts are already anodized. The only reason I might consider it would be (as you've doing) if I wanted the color changed.

On a vehicle-related note, I could really use some assistance in determining the best ESC & motor for my 8ight-XE. I have three other vehicles, all of which are running, or will be running, Tekin RX8 Gen3 ESCs & Pro4 Gen3 motors. However, while all three are for track use, none of them are race-only vehicles...the 8ight-XE will be intended as a true race vehicle. I expect to use the same model servo (Hitec HSB-9360TH) as I use on the other three, and, as for the Rx, it will be a Futaba R334SBS (in non-SR mode).

As for the track, it's a medium-sized dirt/clay track (approx 30' x 70'), with approximately an equal amount of straightaways & turns, and equal amount of tight & wide turns. In other words, it's "well-balanced". Unfortunately, quite a few of the regulars aren't exactly "friendly", thus, turning to them isn't exactly a realistic option, which is why I'm asking here.

I like the idea of sticking with Tekin...but, at the same time, I wouldn't mind switching (for this one vehicle) to something else. The question is, what ESC & motor (again, the same brand, or different brands) will best suit the vehicle's needs? Should I stick with Tekin for ESC & motor? Should i go with Castle, or Hobbywing, or maybe something else? Should I get an ESC of one brand, and a motor of a different brand? And, most importantly, what specific models for each (as well as the kV or T of any suggested/recommended motors)? Assistance would be GREATLY appreciated.

Really cant go wrong with a Tekin rx8 esc and t8 motor combo! My go to in 8th scale, I run the 1900kv in the buggy.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt2332/p776478
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mtbwrench View Post
I had my first race on my X today. The kit setup it definitely not for indoors, so I stood up the shocks on the arms, and went with 37.5 all around. Not the ideal setup, but I made do with what was available to me. I ran 26F/27R ride height, -1.5 all around. All I can say is this thing rotates. A lot. But she rips! I lead the entire B main by half a lap... until a bad tumble knocked me back to third.
What tires (incl compound) you running? What's the track surface (dirt, clay, etc), and conditions? Regarding the diff fluid (F/R/C), were you running the recommended weights, or something different?
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Old 02-16-2019, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
Thanks, but no longer necessary, now that I know the parts are already anodized. The only reason I might consider it would be (as you've doing) if I wanted the color changed.

On a vehicle-related note, I could really use some assistance in determining the best ESC & motor for my 8ight-XE. I have three other vehicles, all of which are running, or will be running, Tekin RX8 Gen3 ESCs & Pro4 Gen3 motors. However, while all three are for track use, none of them are race-only vehicles...the 8ight-XE will be intended as a true race vehicle. I expect to use the same model servo (Hitec HSB-9360TH) as I use on the other three, and, as for the Rx, it will be a Futaba R334SBS (in non-SR mode).

As for the track, it's a medium-sized dirt/clay track (approx 30' x 70'), with approximately an equal amount of straightaways & turns, and equal amount of tight & wide turns. In other words, it's "well-balanced". Unfortunately, quite a few of the regulars aren't exactly "friendly", thus, turning to them isn't exactly a realistic option, which is why I'm asking here.

I like the idea of sticking with Tekin...but, at the same time, I wouldn't mind switching (for this one vehicle) to something else. The question is, what ESC & motor (again, the same brand, or different brands) will best suit the vehicle's needs? Should I stick with Tekin for ESC & motor? Should i go with Castle, or Hobbywing, or maybe something else? Should I get an ESC of one brand, and a motor of a different brand? And, most importantly, what specific models for each (as well as the kV or T of any suggested/recommended motors)? Assistance would be GREATLY appreciated.
I'm running a Tekin RX8 gen 3 with a hobbywing 1900kv motor. I used to run a hobbywing XR8 plus but the tekin is more linear and smoother. Hobbywing 1900 motor is for sure faster and cheaper than the tekin motor though.
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Old 02-17-2019, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
What tires (incl compound) you running? What's the track surface (dirt, clay, etc), and conditions? Regarding the diff fluid (F/R/C), were you running the recommended weights, or something different?
Track is medium sized clay, dusty and cold. Well broken in foams with higher pin were the hot ticket. I was running a relatively new set of MC positrons, and the setup was the kit setup (10f/10c/4r). The only changes I made were going to 37.5wt in the rear(there was far too much pack for an indoor setup, weight transfer was too lazy), and moving the shocks to the outer position on the arms. I had quite literally finished soldering it up the morning of, so i didn't have too mchh time to go and tune things In fact, besides checking the trim and making sure nothing fell apart... my first pack on it was during the first qualifier. Overall first impression was it sort of felt like a nitro car, which I loved. It feels heavy in a good way; there's a lot of weight to transfer and provide stability but it still feels very nimble. It's not lazy whatsoever. But, like I said: it rotates very easily out f the box. I know that's been kind of a thing with the nitro cars, so it'll be interesting to see what more experienced drivers than I think of this new platform.

Also: a point of interest... the kit setup specs 12.5k for the front diff, yet you are only supplied with 10k. I don't really care, but it was interesting to see fluid that heavy specced. Other than that, the build was fantastic just like their recent two wheel kit. I had it built up in two nights, and there were absolutely zero issues(besides the typical droop screw making the hinge pins tight. TLR did a fantastic job. Also, the body is beautiful. I hated the 4.0 body.
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Old 02-17-2019, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mtbwrench View Post
Track is medium sized clay, dusty and cold. Well broken in foams with higher pin were the hot ticket. I was running a relatively new set of MC positrons, and the setup was the kit setup (10f/10c/4r). The only changes I made were going to 37.5wt in the rear(there was far too much pack for an indoor setup, weight transfer was too lazy), and moving the shocks to the outer position on the arms. I had quite literally finished soldering it up the morning of, so i didn't have too mchh time to go and tune things In fact, besides checking the trim and making sure nothing fell apart... my first pack on it was during the first qualifier. Overall first impression was it sort of felt like a nitro car, which I loved. It feels heavy in a good way; there's a lot of weight to transfer and provide stability but it still feels very nimble. It's not lazy whatsoever. But, like I said: it rotates very easily out f the box. I know that's been kind of a thing with the nitro cars, so it'll be interesting to see what more experienced drivers than I think of this new platform.

Also: a point of interest... the kit setup specs 12.5k for the front diff, yet you are only supplied with 10k. I don't really care, but it was interesting to see fluid that heavy specced. Other than that, the build was fantastic just like their recent two wheel kit. I had it built up in two nights, and there were absolutely zero issues(besides the typical droop screw making the hinge pins tight. TLR did a fantastic job. Also, the body is beautiful. I hated the 4.0 body.

Take a look at the setup we posted in here from SIC. Car was very good and first time it was on the track. It was still prototype car too and not the production kit you have.
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Old 02-17-2019, 07:20 PM
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I was actually just about to order up some springs and pistons! The stock package has a ton of dampening, and a ton of pack. I see you're running VRP pistons. I was going to go with a 1.3x8 hole piston, since that's what my LHS can get for now, and see how that works. Plus... I'm not familiar enough with this platform yet(or any of the recent 8ight models' behavior) to be able to tell the difference yet.
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Old 02-18-2019, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mtbwrench View Post
I was actually just about to order up some springs and pistons! The stock package has a ton of dampening, and a ton of pack. I see you're running VRP pistons. I was going to go with a 1.3x8 hole piston, since that's what my LHS can get for now, and see how that works. Plus... I'm not familiar enough with this platform yet(or any of the recent 8ight models' behavior) to be able to tell the difference yet.

Hearing several guys are running 8-hole pistons and liking them. Weve yet to try them though.
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Old 02-18-2019, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyJones View Post



Hearing several guys are running 8-hole pistons and liking them. Weve yet to try them though.
The flow rate on an 8 hole 1.3 is nearly identical to the flow rate of the 6 hole 1.5 that you were running at SIC. Would you anticipate any real difference?
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by nitro_mt_racer View Post
The flow rate on an 8 hole 1.3 is nearly identical to the flow rate of the 6 hole 1.5 that you were running at SIC. Would you anticipate any real difference?
From what I understand, it has to do with balancing responsiveness with pack, to get a good balance of cornering and jump handling. I drove a 4.0 with 8 hole pistons and much lighter oil and it had similar plushness as my XE on landing, but cornering was vastly improved. Currently, the thinner I go on oil the more chassis slap and instability I get on landing.

Granted, that's a 4.0, but I believe the same may still hold true for an XE. We will find out!
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Old 02-18-2019, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro_mt_racer View Post
The flow rate on an 8 hole 1.3 is nearly identical to the flow rate of the 6 hole 1.5 that you were running at SIC. Would you anticipate any real difference?

I think the 8-hole may be a tad better in the bumps and just a touch more traction. Not night and day difference though. We always ran 8- hole 1.2/1.3 fronts and 8-hole 1.3 rears on the 4.0 cars. Tried some 5&6 hole on 4.0 and Tyler always preferred the 8-hole. So far with what weve got to run on the Xs, hes liked the 6-hole. Got stuff to build some 8-hole now so we will see what he likes after that on the X. Just a FYI, you can run same exact setup on nitro and ebuggy now. Cars are very much alike in that sense.
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Old 02-18-2019, 04:55 PM
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A few glamour shots before I inevitably break it and/or wreck the body at the Chi Town Shootout this month. I took a photo of the receiver box because it's really roomy in there, nice touch(yeah, I know, it came out blurry). After a couple days of use, the stock TLR pinion is starting to wear quite a bit... I ordered a 16t Robinson Racing pinion to replace it. I'm not that mad because the kit containing a 15t pinion in the first place was a pleasant surprise, and it seems like at my local track that's a bit short anyways. With a 12k throttle frequency and torque limited to 2 I still have more than enough giddyup to clear our large triple, and all the short run-ups to other jumps as well.








Fun fact: I bought this battery off a local here. Supposedly it was lent to Dakotah at a ROAR race some time ago. Maybe some skill will rub off on me.



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Old 02-18-2019, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mtbwrench View Post
After a couple days of use, the stock TLR pinion is starting to wear quite a bit... I ordered a 16t Robinson Racing pinion to replace it. I'm not that mad because the kit containing a 15t pinion in the first place was a pleasant surprise, and it seems like at my local track that's a bit short anyways. With a 12k throttle frequency and torque limited to 2 I still have more than enough giddyup to clear our large triple, and all the short run-ups to other jumps as well.
Looking at the photos, a couple questions came to mind. First, how are the plastic carriers, steering knuckles & C-hubs holding up? And, is there any reason to consider getting the aluminum parts? On my Rustler 4x4, I swapped those plastic parts for aluminum ones, and am planning on doing the same for my other two project vehicles.

Second...and this is a bit more complicated...I'm currently running an RX8 & Pro4 3300kV (both Gen3) in my Rustler 4x4 (considering the same for my BackSlash project), and was initially considering doing the same with the 8ight-XE. However, another racer I know suggested the HW XR8 Plus & 3660 4300kV (I should mention that the local (indoor) track ONLY allows 2S, for ALL vehicles, so I can't go with the usual 1900kV & 4S configuration). In considering the XR8 Plus, the only difference I notice between the XR8 Plus, and XR8 SCT, is the first can handle up to 6S, and the latter handles up to 4S. Other than these two differences, are you aware of any other differences between the XR8 Plus & XR8 SCT? Getting back to the Tekin vs HW, what led you to go with Tekin? I don't mind the higher cost of Tekin...but, at the same time, I'd prefer to save some money, which might be put to other use on the 8ight-XE. Whichever I go with, I will be installing 5mm bullets between the ESC & motor, making it easy to switch between 4300kv & 2S, and 1900kV & 4S.
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Old 02-19-2019, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mtbwrench View Post
A few glamour shots before I inevitably break it and/or wreck the body at the Chi Town Shootout this month. I took a photo of the receiver box because it's really roomy in there, nice touch(yeah, I know, it came out blurry). After a couple days of use, the stock TLR pinion is starting to wear quite a bit... I ordered a 16t Robinson Racing pinion to replace it. I'm not that mad because the kit containing a 15t pinion in the first place was a pleasant surprise, and it seems like at my local track that's a bit short anyways. With a 12k throttle frequency and torque limited to 2 I still have more than enough giddyup to clear our large triple, and all the short run-ups to other jumps as well.

Fun fact: I bought this battery off a local here. Supposedly it was lent to Dakotah at a ROAR race some time ago. Maybe some skill will rub off on me.

Thanks for the pics! Been waiting for someone to post decent pics of this thing.
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