billdelong

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for hunting it down!

I will consider buying the Hudy tool next if both of my replacement 2.5 tools from RC Renew fail.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

Instead of needing a tool you can drill the hole in the bone big enough that the pin is a slide in fit and then solder the pins in place. Works fine unless you have aluminum dogbones. I've never had a soldered-in pin come loose and when it is time for replacement, the job is easy.

lowspark

iTrader: (7)

I've been using RC-renew 2.5 tool. I found the Serpent 2.5x10 pins work perfect in my Tekno. part # 110213
10 pieces for $6

I did get some 2.5x10 from ebay and they work ok in the alum but too big for the dog bones.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

Review/how-to of the RCrenew tool:

sebtarta

iTrader: (8)

Good lord, that is a PITA tool to use.

I will need to make a video using the Hudy one.

But good review nonetheless. Keep up the good work.

lowspark

iTrader: (7)

Video is ok... but in reality I can do a pin replace in less than a minute.... very simple and quick once you learn how.
The 'Yellow Jacket' wrench shown at the start of the video is the secret, and I took an old open end 3/4 wrench and cut it down to about 4"

lowspark

iTrader: (7)

And I too jamb'd a 2.5 pin trying to force into a dog bone. It felt too tight and I gave it another 1/2 turn LOL

Sent back to RCrenew and he explained to me not all pins are created equal and suggested I use an RC product. He un-jamb'd the tool and sent it back to me .... no charge. Great customer service.

Phillip F

iTrader: (43)

I have this. bought it back in 2001 during my 1/8 on road Serpent days.
I tried ejecting pins from AE B6.1 driveshafts and it works... all I need are the right pins.
Anybody knows where I can get them?

sebtarta

iTrader: (8)

Grab a measuring caliper, measure width and length. Then off to the races finding them. But one of the ebay link posted above should work.

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

a little ambiguous on which car you need pins for, sounds like you want 2.5x10mm pins for the B6?
https://www.rcrenew.com/tools.html

l

AHR43

FWIW, I have made pins from the shafts of metric hex drivers in a pinch. They are hardened steel (usually) and come in common useable diameters. Use a Dremel cut-off wheel to cut to length and the chamfer the ends with the side of the cut off disk. Be sure to wear safety glasses when using a Dremel cut-off disc. They will shatter and scatter-especially when using them as a flat grinding surface.
AC

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

If you want hardened tool steel for pins you might consider tool steel reamer blanks (from McMaster-Carr, for instance). I believe you can get them in one thousandth increments and they'd probably be less expensive than a hex driver that was made from tool steel because you wouldn't be paying for the machining of the hex driver.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

I bought these off Amazon and just finished replacing the pins on my EB410. They are definitely hard enough to work, seem good so far. Next question will be if they are too hard, we shall see. They are rated GCR15 steel, which I think is a Chinese classification.

https://amzn.to/2mMxmY6

big ted

iTrader: (2)

I've seen the driveshaft pins on the AE 6 series cars referred to as 2.5x10mm various places, but this doesn't look correct to me. The pins on the B64 are only ~9 mm in length. Putting 10mm pins in causes the pins to foul on the input shafts in the case of the diff dogbones, and on the arms in the case of the outdrive ends of the axle dogbones.

Juglenaut

iTrader: (19)

Rezzing this thread to mention Motion Pro

One of the best pin remover, chain breaker, and riveter I have used is made by Motion Pro #08-0058 buy from denniskirk.com

And loctite 609 bearing mount and retainer adhesive or 271 red if 6xx loctite is hard to find.

Absolutely no issues..