11LikesHELP! Running a rustler on carpet track
12-10-2018, 07:20 PM
#1
HELP! Running a rustler on carpet track
Looking for some advice/help. Anyone out there running their Traxxas Rustler 2wd VXl Brushless on carpet tracks? I have traxxas big bore shocks but I think they need to be rebuilt after sitting for two years or so. I ended up running slash front tires with rustler stock rears and it was better. Was thinking about rpm a arms next to try something, but idk. Also trying to see if there is a way to make it turn sharper. Please help me out with any setup advice. The car also started cutting out about half way through the day everywhere on track (in sport mode) corners jumps and straight aways. Any ideas are appreciated TYIA
Last edited by BeanTime; 12-10-2018 at 07:48 PM. Reason: Spelling
12-11-2018, 03:09 AM
#2
I'd not invest too much in the Rustler for running on carpet. Traxxas' components are too soft to achieve decent results, and RPM arms will probably not make things better for the very same reason. Also, rear motor design and the high center of gravity of the bulky electronics won't help.
Rebuilding your shocks will help for sure, as will lowering the ride height and, most importantly, using a proper set of carpet tires. Once you have the tires right, you can start with suspension adjustments, but you shouldn't expect too much of the truck. It was never meant to do well on carpet and has other strengths.
Rebuilding your shocks will help for sure, as will lowering the ride height and, most importantly, using a proper set of carpet tires. Once you have the tires right, you can start with suspension adjustments, but you shouldn't expect too much of the truck. It was never meant to do well on carpet and has other strengths.
12-11-2018, 08:18 PM
#3
Get the Jaco 2055LP foam tires made for the Salvas Mudboss. If using a servo mounted servo saver, pin it or replace with a solid servo arm. Run a metal gear servo or get the Savox gears to replace the plastic gears in the 2075 servo.
This is what we do to make the Salvas Mudboss cars (which are just LCG Slashes with a different body) turn on carpet. Since you are running off-road and have to turn both left and right, you can't lower the cars to the extent the oval cars are lowered and tuned to turn left, but this should help.
This is what we do to make the Salvas Mudboss cars (which are just LCG Slashes with a different body) turn on carpet. Since you are running off-road and have to turn both left and right, you can't lower the cars to the extent the oval cars are lowered and tuned to turn left, but this should help.
12-12-2018, 04:36 AM
#4
Grab the RPM offset compensating front arms and run AE T5M wheels at all 4 corners. This with some Jconcepts Pin Downs in rear and Swaggers up front.
Rebuild the shocks with 30/35weight oil and AE truck springs(green up front and blue in the rear). Set arms level up front and slightly below level in rear.
Add some rear toe in with the STRC 1* hubs. Also i add 2* front camber and 2.5* rear camber.
Set slipper 1/4 out from full lock.
i run a 5700kv sidewinder v3 combo with punch set to 20% and brakes at 30% with high power mode.
I also have a Hot Racing sealed diff with 10k weight oil.
Gearing is set to 18/86.
If you take your time to set it up, remove as much weight as you can and get it to steer neutral in the corners, you could be somewhat competitive. The newer AE/TLR MM trucks are going to rip you in the tight corners though.
Rebuild the shocks with 30/35weight oil and AE truck springs(green up front and blue in the rear). Set arms level up front and slightly below level in rear.
Add some rear toe in with the STRC 1* hubs. Also i add 2* front camber and 2.5* rear camber.
Set slipper 1/4 out from full lock.
i run a 5700kv sidewinder v3 combo with punch set to 20% and brakes at 30% with high power mode.
I also have a Hot Racing sealed diff with 10k weight oil.
Gearing is set to 18/86.
If you take your time to set it up, remove as much weight as you can and get it to steer neutral in the corners, you could be somewhat competitive. The newer AE/TLR MM trucks are going to rip you in the tight corners though.
12-13-2018, 10:07 AM
#5
I agree that you shouldn't spend too much on the rustler, but I disagree that it can't at least be competitive at the club level.
Your number 1 priority is getting the right tires for carpet.
Anybody who's fast on carpet runs Schumacher tires. I run Yellow Mini Pins on all four corners on my slash. Most people use open cell inserts, but I like them with closed cell inserts. Most people seem to like running mini pins in the rear with cut staggers up front because it helps dull the steering, but since you're looking for more steering I'd run mini pins up front, too.
Somebody else mentioned the RPM offset compensating front arms. These let you use the same offset wheel front and rear which makes life easier. I have them on my slash and for me they were basically a mandatory upgrade.
I'm not sure what shocks you have, but I have the ultra shocks that come stock on a slash. They're probably the same as what you have. The ultra shocks are pretty much the same size as the old slimbore AE and Losi shocks. I've seen people use losi xxx-t springs on their traxxas trucks. I use the old RC10t3/4 springs on mine. With the AE springs I had to swap out the traxxas spring cups with the AE spring cups. I also use the old slimbore AE shock pistons. With the stock traxxas pistons, the car chassis slaps too easily so the AE pistons helped solve that for me. You'd be looking at no more than $30 for a full set of springs and pistons if you use the older AE or losi stuff and you'll have all the options you need for tuning.
I'd also look into getting a better steering servo. Something like a savox SC-1258TG will be a huge improvement without breaking the bank and will allow you to run without a servo saver. If you're having trouble with steering the servo saver is another likely culprit. I know I said don't spend a lot on the rustler, but I don't count this since you can easily take the servo out of the rustler and use it in another car.
Good luck, and most importantly have fun!
Your number 1 priority is getting the right tires for carpet.
Anybody who's fast on carpet runs Schumacher tires. I run Yellow Mini Pins on all four corners on my slash. Most people use open cell inserts, but I like them with closed cell inserts. Most people seem to like running mini pins in the rear with cut staggers up front because it helps dull the steering, but since you're looking for more steering I'd run mini pins up front, too.
Somebody else mentioned the RPM offset compensating front arms. These let you use the same offset wheel front and rear which makes life easier. I have them on my slash and for me they were basically a mandatory upgrade.
I'm not sure what shocks you have, but I have the ultra shocks that come stock on a slash. They're probably the same as what you have. The ultra shocks are pretty much the same size as the old slimbore AE and Losi shocks. I've seen people use losi xxx-t springs on their traxxas trucks. I use the old RC10t3/4 springs on mine. With the AE springs I had to swap out the traxxas spring cups with the AE spring cups. I also use the old slimbore AE shock pistons. With the stock traxxas pistons, the car chassis slaps too easily so the AE pistons helped solve that for me. You'd be looking at no more than $30 for a full set of springs and pistons if you use the older AE or losi stuff and you'll have all the options you need for tuning.
I'd also look into getting a better steering servo. Something like a savox SC-1258TG will be a huge improvement without breaking the bank and will allow you to run without a servo saver. If you're having trouble with steering the servo saver is another likely culprit. I know I said don't spend a lot on the rustler, but I don't count this since you can easily take the servo out of the rustler and use it in another car.
Good luck, and most importantly have fun!
12-13-2018, 10:42 AM
#6
I agree that you shouldn't spend too much on the rustler, but I disagree that it can't at least be competitive at the club level.
Your number 1 priority is getting the right tires for carpet.
Anybody who's fast on carpet runs Schumacher tires. I run Yellow Mini Pins on all four corners on my slash. Most people use open cell inserts, but I like them with closed cell inserts. Most people seem to like running mini pins in the rear with cut staggers up front because it helps dull the steering, but since you're looking for more steering I'd run mini pins up front, too.
Somebody else mentioned the RPM offset compensating front arms. These let you use the same offset wheel front and rear which makes life easier. I have them on my slash and for me they were basically a mandatory upgrade.
I'm not sure what shocks you have, but I have the ultra shocks that come stock on a slash. They're probably the same as what you have. The ultra shocks are pretty much the same size as the old slimbore AE and Losi shocks. I've seen people use losi xxx-t springs on their traxxas trucks. I use the old RC10t3/4 springs on mine. With the AE springs I had to swap out the traxxas spring cups with the AE spring cups. I also use the old slimbore AE shock pistons. With the stock traxxas pistons, the car chassis slaps too easily so the AE pistons helped solve that for me. You'd be looking at no more than $30 for a full set of springs and pistons if you use the older AE or losi stuff and you'll have all the options you need for tuning.
I'd also look into getting a better steering servo. Something like a savox SC-1258TG will be a huge improvement without breaking the bank and will allow you to run without a servo saver. If you're having trouble with steering the servo saver is another likely culprit. I know I said don't spend a lot on the rustler, but I don't count this since you can easily take the servo out of the rustler and use it in another car.
Good luck, and most importantly have fun!
Your number 1 priority is getting the right tires for carpet.
Anybody who's fast on carpet runs Schumacher tires. I run Yellow Mini Pins on all four corners on my slash. Most people use open cell inserts, but I like them with closed cell inserts. Most people seem to like running mini pins in the rear with cut staggers up front because it helps dull the steering, but since you're looking for more steering I'd run mini pins up front, too.
Somebody else mentioned the RPM offset compensating front arms. These let you use the same offset wheel front and rear which makes life easier. I have them on my slash and for me they were basically a mandatory upgrade.
I'm not sure what shocks you have, but I have the ultra shocks that come stock on a slash. They're probably the same as what you have. The ultra shocks are pretty much the same size as the old slimbore AE and Losi shocks. I've seen people use losi xxx-t springs on their traxxas trucks. I use the old RC10t3/4 springs on mine. With the AE springs I had to swap out the traxxas spring cups with the AE spring cups. I also use the old slimbore AE shock pistons. With the stock traxxas pistons, the car chassis slaps too easily so the AE pistons helped solve that for me. You'd be looking at no more than $30 for a full set of springs and pistons if you use the older AE or losi stuff and you'll have all the options you need for tuning.
I'd also look into getting a better steering servo. Something like a savox SC-1258TG will be a huge improvement without breaking the bank and will allow you to run without a servo saver. If you're having trouble with steering the servo saver is another likely culprit. I know I said don't spend a lot on the rustler, but I don't count this since you can easily take the servo out of the rustler and use it in another car.
Good luck, and most importantly have fun!
This guy would be so much further ahead if he picked up a used Xray, TLR, Associated etc. Or buy new if the budget allows.
12-13-2018, 11:02 AM
#7
I suppose with enough time and money you can make a Ford Festiva fast too...... but why not start with something a lot better suited for the conditions.
This guy would be so much further ahead if he picked up a used Xray, TLR, Associated etc. Or buy new if the budget allows.
This guy would be so much further ahead if he picked up a used Xray, TLR, Associated etc. Or buy new if the budget allows.
At the club level skill trumps setup probably 95% of the time. There's no reason he can't be reasonably competitive and have fun with a rustler without having to spend a ton of money on it.
12-13-2018, 11:21 AM
#8
If it was me .Oh this was.. was told a rustler was a great starting trucks many years ago.but after 3 weeks dropped that idea then went to xxt..moved on many times since that . resell then buy a more carpet friendly truck.
12-13-2018, 11:24 AM
#9
Schumacher tires (or tyres 
) are the tires of choice for buggies, but the JConcepts stadium truck tires are far better on carpet. Yellow minipins are great for outdoors, but have too much bite e.g. for EOS carpet, which leads to traction rolling. Stagger ribs are edgy tires. Before the latest generation of tires came out, we preferred worn microspikes with three rows of spikes cut on either side in the front with an insert, and new ones without an insert in the rear. Fortunately there is the Swaggers today, which we have use in combination with Schumacher's yellow minipins on astro and Pindowns on carpet. I don't know anyone who has tested the Proline carpet tires yet, but am eager to test the Prism on carpet. I am positive that the Pyramids will be my go-to outdoor tire next season, because the buggy version provides good traction at a low wear rate. If we are lucky, Schumacher will update their ST portfolio soon, at least they are working on their own truck at the moment.
Long story short: JConcepts Swaggers are hands down the best carpet/astro front tire for stadium trucks at the moment, and depending on your track's traction level, the yellow minipin or pink Pindowns are most likely the best choice for the rear end, and +1 on the benefits of a used mid-motor or even laydown transmission truck. I've progressed through rear motor, 3 and 4 gear midmotor to laydown transmission trucks with rearward and forward rear shocks, and with the right set-up, every single evolutionary step has helped a lot on all types of track.
Of course you can have fun with a Rustler on carpet, but in a club where a beginner can be reasonably competitive with a Rustler on carpet, the competition can't be so tough, I am afraid. Especially on carpet set-up and equipment is crucial to success, whereas on 'real' dirt you could easier get away with a Rustler, Evader or similar entry level vehicles.
There are many ways to enjoy the hobby and as I mentioned earlier the Rustler has its benefits, but not on carpet. It may be a bitter pill to swallow for some, but in the medium to long run it is better to start with used racing stuff than with a new RTR model, which only seem to be a cheaper package. People tend to stick with a hobby that is fun. Everyone who appeared with a China RC car or Tamiya Fighter buggy of sorts at out track has either switched to a race grade vehicle or quit soon afterwards. Again, you don't have to buy the latest kit, a one or two season old well-maintained car or truck is a perfect starting point.
) are the tires of choice for buggies, but the JConcepts stadium truck tires are far better on carpet. Yellow minipins are great for outdoors, but have too much bite e.g. for EOS carpet, which leads to traction rolling. Stagger ribs are edgy tires. Before the latest generation of tires came out, we preferred worn microspikes with three rows of spikes cut on either side in the front with an insert, and new ones without an insert in the rear. Fortunately there is the Swaggers today, which we have use in combination with Schumacher's yellow minipins on astro and Pindowns on carpet. I don't know anyone who has tested the Proline carpet tires yet, but am eager to test the Prism on carpet. I am positive that the Pyramids will be my go-to outdoor tire next season, because the buggy version provides good traction at a low wear rate. If we are lucky, Schumacher will update their ST portfolio soon, at least they are working on their own truck at the moment.Long story short: JConcepts Swaggers are hands down the best carpet/astro front tire for stadium trucks at the moment, and depending on your track's traction level, the yellow minipin or pink Pindowns are most likely the best choice for the rear end, and +1 on the benefits of a used mid-motor or even laydown transmission truck. I've progressed through rear motor, 3 and 4 gear midmotor to laydown transmission trucks with rearward and forward rear shocks, and with the right set-up, every single evolutionary step has helped a lot on all types of track.
Because telling someone who already has a car they spent a couple hundred on to sell it and buys something else or they'll totally suck is not a good way to get more people into the hobby, especially if they're on the fence about getting into it.
At the club level skill trumps setup probably 95% of the time. There's no reason he can't be reasonably competitive and have fun with a rustler without having to spend a ton of money on it.
At the club level skill trumps setup probably 95% of the time. There's no reason he can't be reasonably competitive and have fun with a rustler without having to spend a ton of money on it.
There are many ways to enjoy the hobby and as I mentioned earlier the Rustler has its benefits, but not on carpet. It may be a bitter pill to swallow for some, but in the medium to long run it is better to start with used racing stuff than with a new RTR model, which only seem to be a cheaper package. People tend to stick with a hobby that is fun. Everyone who appeared with a China RC car or Tamiya Fighter buggy of sorts at out track has either switched to a race grade vehicle or quit soon afterwards. Again, you don't have to buy the latest kit, a one or two season old well-maintained car or truck is a perfect starting point.
Last edited by mes; 12-13-2018 at 11:45 AM.
12-16-2018, 10:15 AM
#10
I tried running a rustler on carpet and there isn’t anyway to get it to work well enough to be competitive against the fast guys. I even tried a Traxxas SRT which is their old race truck. On a dirt outdoor track my SRT and heavily modified rustler are still competitive and I love running them.
On carpet unfortunately i would say you're better off getting a used race truck. T5m or a 22t 3.0 can be found at a reasonable price.
If you have your mind set on trying to get the rustler to race then I can share a few things I’ve done.
Get the truck as light as possible. Titanium bolts, hinge pins, turnbuckles, etc.
the proline protrac kit is a pretty solid setup. Can’t go wrong with their suspension system. I would recommend that or buying parts individually for more performance.
Get carbon fiber shock towers, I have ANZA, but there’s some on eBay that are cheaper and would work. You want some that have additional shock mounting holes and turnbuckle mounting holes.
get rpm wide front arms or the proline protrac arms front and rear. The proline ones have optional shock mounting holes that are nice to have.
Get lunsford titanium turnbuckles and hingepin kit. These are stronger and weight a lot less than the stock ones. Use their super duty ball cups with them or get the rpm ones.
You’ll want some alloy caster blocks like the ones from ANZA that allow better adjustment for the ball studs. I like the ANZA ones as it puts them on top of the caster blocks so you can add or remove washers under the ball studs. Make sure you get some with 30* caster as that will help give more on power steering.
Get a new steering kit, the proline one is nice, the or get aluminum bellcranks. Buy a stronger servo like the savox and run a solid servo arm and no servo saver.
You’ll want some alloy steering blocks as well. Look for some that are slightly stronger in design than the stock style.
Next get a hot racing or flm sealed diff or an Mip ball diff. The ball diff will require non stop maintenance, the sealed diffs are nice as they don’t require much maintenance.
I also run older stock plastic Traxxas dear gears to keep the rotating assembly as light as possible. As long as you don’t land off a jump on the throttle the gears will hold up just fine.
Get MIP cvd’s as they are lighter and smoother.
rear hub carriers are a huge upgrade that need to be done. Get alloy ones with optimal mounting points for the turnbuckle. I run the ANZA ones do the amount of holes they have. I really like all of the ANZA stuff. It’s really nice quality pieces.
Now you have a decision to go with the trans case. You can run the stock case which is not that good for racing. The motor can move under a hard impact and there isn’t any heat sink, also it has the arm mounts molded into it. You could cut the mounts off the stock trans case and use nitro rustler arm mounts with zero toe in. The rpm case has separately molded arm mounts which is why I went with that.
Next thing to look at is the chassis. The stock chassis has too much flex for carpet. You can stiffen it by gluing thing aluminum strips to the chassis to stiffen it. Or make some braces to bolt from the shock towers to the to strengthen it. The other option is to buy a different chassis. There are numerous options out there, I would look for one that has as much bracing as possible. There is a lot on eBay that converts the rustler to an SRT chassis and that would provide a stronger platform.
Electronics can can be a huge increase in performance. I would get rid of the vxl system and get a sensored system. If you run mod then go with a 8.5 or 6.5 motor. Or if you run stock class then get the 17.5 or 13.5 for whichever they require. You can get a turnigy trackstar turbo 80amp esc for $40 or a hobbywing justock esc for $50. I have both and find the trackstar is a little bit more powerful with better brakes. Turnigy has some cheap motors also.
Once you get all all the parts you need, set the truck up with 32.5wt front shock oil and 27.5wt rear. Run the turnbuckles long. Mount the inner side as high and as back as much as you can to help with traction rolling. Run your shocks laid down as much as you can and use medium springs to start with. Run 3* camber in the front and 2* in the rear. Ride height around 16-18mm. I would try mini pins and staggers in the front to get the best steering you want from either set and mini pins in the rear. This is about all you can do with the rustler and it will be a killer with other rear motor trucks and can beat some drivers with mid motor trucks. The key is to practice as much as you can and be smooth. If other guys are crashing a lot and you rarely crash then you can win.
Feel free to send me me a message at anytime and I can help you as much as I can.
On carpet unfortunately i would say you're better off getting a used race truck. T5m or a 22t 3.0 can be found at a reasonable price.
If you have your mind set on trying to get the rustler to race then I can share a few things I’ve done.
Get the truck as light as possible. Titanium bolts, hinge pins, turnbuckles, etc.
the proline protrac kit is a pretty solid setup. Can’t go wrong with their suspension system. I would recommend that or buying parts individually for more performance.
Get carbon fiber shock towers, I have ANZA, but there’s some on eBay that are cheaper and would work. You want some that have additional shock mounting holes and turnbuckle mounting holes.
get rpm wide front arms or the proline protrac arms front and rear. The proline ones have optional shock mounting holes that are nice to have.
Get lunsford titanium turnbuckles and hingepin kit. These are stronger and weight a lot less than the stock ones. Use their super duty ball cups with them or get the rpm ones.
You’ll want some alloy caster blocks like the ones from ANZA that allow better adjustment for the ball studs. I like the ANZA ones as it puts them on top of the caster blocks so you can add or remove washers under the ball studs. Make sure you get some with 30* caster as that will help give more on power steering.
Get a new steering kit, the proline one is nice, the or get aluminum bellcranks. Buy a stronger servo like the savox and run a solid servo arm and no servo saver.
You’ll want some alloy steering blocks as well. Look for some that are slightly stronger in design than the stock style.
Next get a hot racing or flm sealed diff or an Mip ball diff. The ball diff will require non stop maintenance, the sealed diffs are nice as they don’t require much maintenance.
I also run older stock plastic Traxxas dear gears to keep the rotating assembly as light as possible. As long as you don’t land off a jump on the throttle the gears will hold up just fine.
Get MIP cvd’s as they are lighter and smoother.
rear hub carriers are a huge upgrade that need to be done. Get alloy ones with optimal mounting points for the turnbuckle. I run the ANZA ones do the amount of holes they have. I really like all of the ANZA stuff. It’s really nice quality pieces.
Now you have a decision to go with the trans case. You can run the stock case which is not that good for racing. The motor can move under a hard impact and there isn’t any heat sink, also it has the arm mounts molded into it. You could cut the mounts off the stock trans case and use nitro rustler arm mounts with zero toe in. The rpm case has separately molded arm mounts which is why I went with that.
Next thing to look at is the chassis. The stock chassis has too much flex for carpet. You can stiffen it by gluing thing aluminum strips to the chassis to stiffen it. Or make some braces to bolt from the shock towers to the to strengthen it. The other option is to buy a different chassis. There are numerous options out there, I would look for one that has as much bracing as possible. There is a lot on eBay that converts the rustler to an SRT chassis and that would provide a stronger platform.
Electronics can can be a huge increase in performance. I would get rid of the vxl system and get a sensored system. If you run mod then go with a 8.5 or 6.5 motor. Or if you run stock class then get the 17.5 or 13.5 for whichever they require. You can get a turnigy trackstar turbo 80amp esc for $40 or a hobbywing justock esc for $50. I have both and find the trackstar is a little bit more powerful with better brakes. Turnigy has some cheap motors also.
Once you get all all the parts you need, set the truck up with 32.5wt front shock oil and 27.5wt rear. Run the turnbuckles long. Mount the inner side as high and as back as much as you can to help with traction rolling. Run your shocks laid down as much as you can and use medium springs to start with. Run 3* camber in the front and 2* in the rear. Ride height around 16-18mm. I would try mini pins and staggers in the front to get the best steering you want from either set and mini pins in the rear. This is about all you can do with the rustler and it will be a killer with other rear motor trucks and can beat some drivers with mid motor trucks. The key is to practice as much as you can and be smooth. If other guys are crashing a lot and you rarely crash then you can win.
Feel free to send me me a message at anytime and I can help you as much as I can.
11-08-2022, 10:54 AM
#11
Resurrecting an old thread, I am trying to make my kids’ Rustlers a little more competitive (Rookie Class) by utilizing bits and pieces of this thread. My question is, I’d like to use a lowering spring, but don’t know which or what rates to use. Any help would be appreciated. I lowered the shocks with limiters, but the springs are too soft. It wants to slap a lot. I have 35w oil ft and 30w oil rr.
Please advise. Thanks.
Note: Yes, these are temporary cars to get them involved before I make a real investment in upgrading to a race specific model. Thanks.
Please advise. Thanks.
Note: Yes, these are temporary cars to get them involved before I make a real investment in upgrading to a race specific model. Thanks.
11-08-2022, 11:00 AM
#12
11-08-2022, 11:50 AM
#13
Resurrecting an old thread, I am trying to make my kids’ Rustlers a little more competitive (Rookie Class) by utilizing bits and pieces of this thread. My question is, I’d like to use a lowering spring, but don’t know which or what rates to use. Any help would be appreciated. I lowered the shocks with limiters, but the springs are too soft. It wants to slap a lot. I have 35w oil ft and 30w oil rr.
Please advise. Thanks.
Note: Yes, these are temporary cars to get them involved before I make a real investment in upgrading to a race specific model. Thanks.
Please advise. Thanks.
Note: Yes, these are temporary cars to get them involved before I make a real investment in upgrading to a race specific model. Thanks.
11-08-2022, 12:30 PM
#14
Resurrecting an old thread, I am trying to make my kids’ Rustlers a little more competitive (Rookie Class) by utilizing bits and pieces of this thread. My question is, I’d like to use a lowering spring, but don’t know which or what rates to use. Any help would be appreciated. I lowered the shocks with limiters, but the springs are too soft. It wants to slap a lot. I have 35w oil ft and 30w oil rr.
Please advise. Thanks.
Note: Yes, these are temporary cars to get them involved before I make a real investment in upgrading to a race specific model. Thanks.
Please advise. Thanks.
Note: Yes, these are temporary cars to get them involved before I make a real investment in upgrading to a race specific model. Thanks.
11-09-2022, 06:40 PM
#15
Resurrecting an old thread, I am trying to make my kids’ Rustlers a little more competitive (Rookie Class) by utilizing bits and pieces of this thread. My question is, I’d like to use a lowering spring, but don’t know which or what rates to use. Any help would be appreciated. I lowered the shocks with limiters, but the springs are too soft. It wants to slap a lot. I have 35w oil ft and 30w oil rr.
Please advise. Thanks.
Note: Yes, these are temporary cars to get them involved before I make a real investment in upgrading to a race specific model. Thanks.
Please advise. Thanks.
Note: Yes, these are temporary cars to get them involved before I make a real investment in upgrading to a race specific model. Thanks.
Dunno whether you would want to spend that much money but the Jaco 2055LP tires that are the spec tire for the MudBoss slash will fit the Rustler and will make a big difference over the stock tires. With these tires on a carpet track a Mudboss will turn so hard it will override the servo saver. Lots of people run locked servo savers on the MudBoss cars to get them to turn.