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TLR 22 5.0

Old 01-15-2020, 07:37 AM
  #1471  
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
Right I remembered I could do it that way after I posted it. If it has a gear diff it's a AC correct, and all other versions have the ball. so if it does have a ball how can I tell what it is of the other 3 versions. or part wise does it really matter if I needed to replace something, or buy spar parts.
You are correct. The SR would have different outdrives and no slip clutch. As far as which manual to use I would just go with the one that leans towards the kind of racing you want to do. They are mostly just setup differences. Parts are all similar enough and kinda depend on which ones are used as to how you are going to set it up. Elite has VHA rear arms, hubs and driveshafts. Hopefully this helps!
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Old 01-15-2020, 07:39 AM
  #1472  
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Oh and the Elite would have 3.5mm shock shafts vs 3.0mm on the others.
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Old 01-15-2020, 08:21 AM
  #1473  
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Yup thanks
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Old 01-15-2020, 09:02 AM
  #1474  
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Originally Posted by rc10t4orange
Oh and the Elite would have 3.5mm shock shafts vs 3.0mm on the others.
Ah, beat me to it... While nice to have in the olí pit box, Iím guessing that not many people have invested in having the 3.5mm shaft based shocks as an option. That being said, if you come across a 22 5.0 that has them, Iíd say the odds are pretty good that it was born a DC Elite, regardless of whatís installed on it.
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Old 01-15-2020, 10:47 AM
  #1475  
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Just got a dc elite from someone here on rc tech. What parts should I save from my 22 4.0?
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Old 01-15-2020, 11:13 AM
  #1476  
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
Right I remembered I could do it that way after I posted it. If it has a gear diff it's a AC correct, and all other versions have the ball. so if it does have a ball how can I tell what it is of the other 3 versions. or part wise does it really matter if I needed to replace something, or buy spar parts.
Not necessarily someone could have used a DC to convert to a carpet car, just because it has a gear diff does not 100% mean its an AC but most likley it is, Dpes it have sway bars and what was the hight set up for that would be a sign of a AC.....
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Old 01-15-2020, 11:14 AM
  #1477  
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Originally Posted by Tacoracer81
Just got a dc elite from someone here on rc tech. What parts should I save from my 22 4.0?
To be honest not many at all I got rid of my 4.0 for the 5.0 not many parts were used for "spares"
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Old 01-16-2020, 03:59 PM
  #1478  
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Hello, thinking of getting a 5.0. I want to race on carpet and maybe dirt/clay from time to time. Does it make more sense buying a DC and then a gear diff, or a AC and a ball diff?
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Old 01-17-2020, 07:26 AM
  #1479  
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Originally Posted by ceh329
Hello, thinking of getting a 5.0. I want to race on carpet and maybe dirt/clay from time to time. Does it make more sense buying a DC and then a gear diff, or a AC and a ball diff?
In my opinion buy a AC because you will mainly be running carpet. It comes with the gear diff, sway bars, and narrow front rims all for carpet. I believe if you buy a ball diff and some regular front wheels you can make it a DC just by changing alot of setup stuff.
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Old 01-17-2020, 08:27 AM
  #1480  
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Originally Posted by ceh329
Hello, thinking of getting a 5.0. I want to race on carpet and maybe dirt/clay from time to time. Does it make more sense buying a DC and then a gear diff, or a AC and a ball diff?
Hmm, at the new lower price, the AC is compelling - but if you go the AC route, I would recommend at minimum that you get the VHA conversion kit and the Elite C/D blocks/pills., simply because it offers a lot of adjustability in the rear that you might benefit from for a carpet setup. Later on, I would consider getting the aluminum bellcrank parts as well - I canít even begin to tell you how smooth and precise it feels! Keep in mind that the ball diff alone will come in at $50 - and since the AC setup comes with stiffezel rear arms by default, you might want to pick up the stiffezel VHA arms to use on carpet as well.

In reality, thereís other parts you might want from the Elite, such as the carbon shock towers (because they are available in regular and +2mm versions for additional adjustability), but they are not necessarily ďmust haveĒ right out the gate.


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Old 01-17-2020, 06:31 PM
  #1481  
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Looking at current setups I have shock questions:
using the 4.0 shock bodies you use the new shafts and pistons with the new shock cups and eyelets, correct?

Also the TLR thin pistons were out of stock at my lhs so i bought assocoated v2 thin pistons, are these a direct fit or do i need to order online?

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Old 01-17-2020, 07:54 PM
  #1482  
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Get the elite then convert what you need. This is exactly what 2 team guys told. me. They said it was cheaper
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Old 01-17-2020, 07:56 PM
  #1483  
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Originally Posted by Chris Reilly
Get the elite then convert what you need. This is exactly what 2 team guys told. me. They said it was cheaper
i have the elite
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Old 01-18-2020, 06:30 AM
  #1484  
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Frank, I figured you would be the best person to answer this since you run proline and recently raced at rc fun park, where I race.

Alot of slicks being ran at big races, where proline drivers always use sanded down tires instead of MC primes. It there a reason for this? I read it's about the carcass but dont understand why. My cars always feel great on damp clay using primes, just wondering if I should try some sanded tires.
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Old 01-18-2020, 02:14 PM
  #1485  
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A quick question for Frank.

The 5.0 elite looks awesome. But, I really like my 4.0 for carpet due to the thicker chassis and front aluminum servo mount and chassis brace. This allows very little flex.

Here is my question (more like a request), I was wondering that if you created a 5.0 AC elite, could you incorporate a 2.5mm thick chassis and some type of front chassis brace that can stiffen up the front end?

With all the other TLR adjustment possibilities, that would be an Elite Carpet Car.

Thank you,
Glenn
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