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TLR 22 5.0

Old 12-21-2019, 10:09 PM
  #1351  
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Originally Posted by A_Locomotive
Has anyone swapped out the composite shock caps for aluminium? I need to rebuild one of my front shocks, the shaft snapped at the track today. Since I will have to rebuild them anyway i was wondering if this might be a worthwhile upgrade.
no issues with them in my experience.

Originally Posted by radman123
Anyone have tips on getting the screws into the plastics without tapping the holes? Iím struggling on some of these and donít want to strip the holes out. Thanks!
Havenít really experienced that, did you try using grease on the threads?
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Old 12-22-2019, 12:58 AM
  #1352  
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Originally Posted by radman123
Anyone have tips on getting the screws into the plastics without tapping the holes? Iím struggling on some of these and donít want to strip the holes out. Thanks!
I have pretty good luck with black grease, or chapstick
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Old 12-22-2019, 05:52 AM
  #1353  
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Originally Posted by meandeanr
I have pretty good luck with black grease, or chapstick
agreed
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Old 12-22-2019, 09:20 AM
  #1354  
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Originally Posted by radman123
Anyone have tips on getting the screws into the plastics without tapping the holes? Iím struggling on some of these and donít want to strip the holes out. Thanks!
I used a drill when it came to the turnbuckles. I very carefully mounted the ball cup into my drill and used that. otherwise I wouldíve stripped the ball cups

Originally Posted by A_Locomotive
Has anyone swapped out the composite shock caps for aluminium? I need to rebuild one of my front shocks, the shaft snapped at the track today. Since I will have to rebuild them anyway i was wondering if this might be a worthwhile upgrade.
I upgraded right away. I overtightened mine when I built it and they would weap. Switched to the alum and never had an issue since. I have heavy hands though
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Old 12-22-2019, 10:00 AM
  #1355  
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Originally Posted by Trlmatt

I upgraded right away. I overtightened mine when I built it and they would weap. Switched to the alum and never had an issue since. I have heavy hands though
Every kit Iíve ever had from multiple manufacturers has a problem with stripping the bleeder screw holes. HATE plastic shock caps!!
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Old 12-22-2019, 10:39 AM
  #1356  
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Originally Posted by Trlmatt
I used a drill when it came to the turnbuckles. I very carefully mounted the ball cup into my drill and used that. otherwise I wouldíve stripped the ball cups



I upgraded right away. I overtightened mine when I built it and they would weap. Switched to the alum and never had an issue since. I have heavy hands though
You know. That right there is a good enough reason for me. Haha I definitely semi stripped one of mine, has had slow leak since its first run. Just a shame the caps will get all fucked up since they are exposed and I am a terrible driver. Haha
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Old 12-22-2019, 10:59 AM
  #1357  
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Hey guys, most of the TLR elite owners I race here at Hot Rod Hobbies (wet dirt track) have this problem with the buggy when its ran factory setup( I gather this setup is for clay). The buggy hooks to the left or right when punching in throttle. Even in the straight it does that.... worse when you are turning. Any setup help would really be appreciated.
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Old 12-22-2019, 11:07 AM
  #1358  
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Last edited by zipperfoot; 02-11-2020 at 04:18 AM.
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Old 12-22-2019, 05:36 PM
  #1359  
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Originally Posted by MrLean
Every kit Iíve ever had from multiple manufacturers has a problem with stripping the bleeder screw holes. HATE plastic shock caps!!
I found that the replacement caps were better than the originals. I hated the black aluminum caps, always damaged the cap oring, even with proper precautions to not do so. Plastic caps for me.
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Old 12-22-2019, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Raul Garcia
I found that the replacement caps were better than the originals. I hated the black aluminum caps, always damaged the cap oring, even with proper precautions to not do so. Plastic caps for me.
that's a bummer, I just ordered the black aluminum ones. Will see how they do when i rebuild my front shocks.
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Old 12-23-2019, 08:27 AM
  #1361  
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Frank are there any plans to just release a gear box with the quick diff change or will we have to wait for the release of a new vehicle?
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Old 12-23-2019, 04:34 PM
  #1362  
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Originally Posted by radman123
Anyone have tips on getting the screws into the plastics without tapping the holes? Iím struggling on some of these and donít want to strip the holes out. Thanks!
I use the Jason Synder (Short Course World) pro-tips of a crayon, works great! Stole one of my kid's extra black crayons and keep in my pit tools for builds.
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Old 12-23-2019, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Phugazi
I use the Jason Synder (Short Course World) pro-tips of a crayon, works great! Stole one of my kid's extra black crayons and keep in my pit tools for builds.
so youíre the reason all the tires in their drawings are green.....lol

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Old 12-23-2019, 07:36 PM
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Is there any difference between the elite aluminum steering and the aluminum link & crank for the AC? I was thinking I'd get some elite parts so I could run clay at some point.
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Old 12-23-2019, 08:41 PM
  #1365  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
Hey guys, most of the TLR elite owners I race here at Hot Rod Hobbies (wet dirt track) have this problem with the buggy when its ran factory setup( I gather this setup is for clay). The buggy hooks to the left or right when punching in throttle. Even in the straight it does that.... worse when you are turning. Any setup help would really be appreciated.
First. Make sure your shocks are not bound up. Then remove them and the tires and ensure the suspension is completely free. Rotate the car so that the arms are horizontal and slowly tilt forward or backward. If one arm moves long before the other you'll have some work to do to free it up.
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