806LikesTLR 22 5.0
08-19-2019, 03:15 PM
#871
Yes, yes, and damp med/high bite clay, seems to have a very narrow window of too tight to too loose. I build and break it in the exact same as my B6.1 and it last forever!
08-19-2019, 06:12 PM
#872
I remember there was an issue with some diff component tolerances on the tlr car (maybe the 4.0 or 3.0 SR?) Frank Root posts in here all the time and I'm sure he'll have an answer for you. Same out drives for all 5 rebuilds?
08-19-2019, 10:31 PM
#873
Yes same outdrives, replaced the thrust spring nut and screw 3 times, same effect each time, very narrow range of adjustment, will go from good adjustment to loose and barking in the matter of 1 heat race. Then it's toast.
08-20-2019, 07:14 AM
#874
Sounds like the out drives might be out of tolerance. IIRC the previous tolerance issues were with the out drives and the symptoms were similar to what you are experiencing.
08-20-2019, 07:45 AM
#875
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Last edited by zipperfoot; 02-11-2020 at 08:58 AM.
08-20-2019, 11:37 AM
#876
I always put them on the right I've never had a problem with any other car, been doing this going on 18 years 50 plus cars have never had a problem like this.
thanks ibc kevin
08-21-2019, 04:32 PM
#879
Part Number TLR334069
Wasn't aware until today that the CVA pin had multiple locations for mounting. vLooks completely bad ass.
Now, can someone correct me if i'm wrong. pretty sure the 5.0 came with 68mm driveshafts. looks like the Elite potentially comes with 67mm driveshafts. if you purchase the VHA conversion, it comes with no driveshafts, so we'd still need to be purchasing some 67's?
I want to kind of just upgrade my 5.0 as i have most of the black aftermarket parts, however all said and done just wonder if buying a new Elite is the way to go.
Last edited by thirtydaZe; 08-21-2019 at 04:43 PM.
08-21-2019, 08:23 PM
#880
If you watch the new diff setting video from TLR...Frank Root discusses the setting the slipper and adjusting the diff nut. He stated it does not matter what side you put it on, it will work fine either way. You guys should check out the video and stop arguing about diff screw sides.
08-21-2019, 08:34 PM
#881
I had an issue with my SR diff out of the box, no matter what it would bind up after just a few runs, it seemed as though it would spit out all the grease from the thrust bearing compartment, regardless of how much i put in it. After switching to DC outdrives I have zero issues and one diff rebuild lasts me multiple months.
08-22-2019, 06:40 AM
#882
I didn't watch the video, and i get what you are saying, but the instruction manual is pretty clear about how they want it put in. It may or may not matter, I know the AE guys put it in the opposite way. We were just suggesting he try putting it in as stated in the manual,what could it hurt, he's having an issue with it.
08-22-2019, 10:34 AM
#883
I didn't watch the video, and i get what you are saying, but the instruction manual is pretty clear about how they want it put in. It may or may not matter, I know the AE guys put it in the opposite way. We were just suggesting he try putting it in as stated in the manual,what could it hurt, he's having an issue with it.
Additionally, because our cars almost exclusively travel forward a set of gears will wear together. If you reverse one of the gears the gears will wear more and usually the gearbox will be louder. I always mark my gears so I can put them back the correct direction.
08-22-2019, 12:19 PM
#884
I'm pretty sure the recommendation for the diff screw head to go to the left side of the gear box is a hold over from the rear motor days when if you put the diff screw to the right it made accessing the diff screw more difficult because of the gear cover/spur gear being in the way.
I’ve asked AE about this and their product support will say it matters, but... it doesn’t.
08-22-2019, 12:53 PM
#885
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Last edited by zipperfoot; 02-11-2020 at 08:57 AM.
