Like Tree806Likes

TLR 22 5.0

Old 08-19-2019, 03:15 PM
  #871  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 131
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Yes, yes, and damp med/high bite clay, seems to have a very narrow window of too tight to too loose. I build and break it in the exact same as my B6.1 and it last forever!
Slashripper is offline  
Old 08-19-2019, 06:12 PM
  #872  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 1,065
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Slashripper
Yes, yes, and damp med/high bite clay, seems to have a very narrow window of too tight to too loose. I build and break it in the exact same as my B6.1 and it last forever!
I remember there was an issue with some diff component tolerances on the tlr car (maybe the 4.0 or 3.0 SR?) Frank Root posts in here all the time and I'm sure he'll have an answer for you. Same out drives for all 5 rebuilds?
Slashripper likes this.
waitwhat is offline  
Old 08-19-2019, 10:31 PM
  #873  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 131
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Yes same outdrives, replaced the thrust spring nut and screw 3 times, same effect each time, very narrow range of adjustment, will go from good adjustment to loose and barking in the matter of 1 heat race. Then it's toast.
Slashripper is offline  
Old 08-20-2019, 07:14 AM
  #874  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 1,065
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Slashripper
Yes same outdrives, replaced the thrust spring nut and screw 3 times, same effect each time, very narrow range of adjustment, will go from good adjustment to loose and barking in the matter of 1 heat race. Then it's toast.
Sounds like the out drives might be out of tolerance. IIRC the previous tolerance issues were with the out drives and the symptoms were similar to what you are experiencing.
zipperfoot and Slashripper like this.
waitwhat is offline  
Old 08-20-2019, 07:45 AM
  #875  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

***

Last edited by zipperfoot; 02-11-2020 at 08:58 AM.
zipperfoot is offline  
Old 08-20-2019, 11:37 AM
  #876  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 131
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I always put them on the right I've never had a problem with any other car, been doing this going on 18 years 50 plus cars have never had a problem like this.
zipperfoot likes this.
Slashripper is offline  
Old 08-21-2019, 04:07 PM
  #877  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (48)
 
fat500's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boca Raton, florida
Posts: 2,272
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

retracted.....you learn something new every day thanks ibc kevin

Last edited by fat500; 08-22-2019 at 05:21 AM. Reason: correction
fat500 is offline  
Old 08-21-2019, 04:09 PM
  #878  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (48)
 
fat500's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boca Raton, florida
Posts: 2,272
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Now on to the real stuff.......This buggy just got better with the new VHA rear hubs..
Will they be avail as a add on for us current 22 5.0 racers?
fat500 is offline  
Old 08-21-2019, 04:32 PM
  #879  
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
 
thirtydaZe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,207
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by fat500
Now on to the real stuff.......This buggy just got better with the new VHA rear hubs..
Will they be avail as a add on for us current 22 5.0 racers?
Yes.

Part Number TLR334069


Wasn't aware until today that the CVA pin had multiple locations for mounting. vLooks completely bad ass.


Now, can someone correct me if i'm wrong. pretty sure the 5.0 came with 68mm driveshafts. looks like the Elite potentially comes with 67mm driveshafts. if you purchase the VHA conversion, it comes with no driveshafts, so we'd still need to be purchasing some 67's?

I want to kind of just upgrade my 5.0 as i have most of the black aftermarket parts, however all said and done just wonder if buying a new Elite is the way to go.

Last edited by thirtydaZe; 08-21-2019 at 04:43 PM.
thirtydaZe is offline  
Old 08-21-2019, 08:23 PM
  #880  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (106)
 
lbckevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,715
Trader Rating: 106 (99%+)
Default

If you watch the new diff setting video from TLR...Frank Root discusses the setting the slipper and adjusting the diff nut. He stated it does not matter what side you put it on, it will work fine either way. You guys should check out the video and stop arguing about diff screw sides.

zipperfoot likes this.
lbckevin is offline  
Old 08-21-2019, 08:34 PM
  #881  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
 
I_NeedBigDrink's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: California
Posts: 242
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I had an issue with my SR diff out of the box, no matter what it would bind up after just a few runs, it seemed as though it would spit out all the grease from the thrust bearing compartment, regardless of how much i put in it. After switching to DC outdrives I have zero issues and one diff rebuild lasts me multiple months.
I_NeedBigDrink is offline  
Old 08-22-2019, 06:40 AM
  #882  
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
 
thirtydaZe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,207
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lbckevin
You guys should check out the video and stop arguing about diff screw sides.

I didn't watch the video, and i get what you are saying, but the instruction manual is pretty clear about how they want it put in. It may or may not matter, I know the AE guys put it in the opposite way. We were just suggesting he try putting it in as stated in the manual,what could it hurt, he's having an issue with it.
fat500 and zipperfoot like this.
thirtydaZe is offline  
Old 08-22-2019, 10:34 AM
  #883  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 1,065
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by thirtydaZe
I didn't watch the video, and i get what you are saying, but the instruction manual is pretty clear about how they want it put in. It may or may not matter, I know the AE guys put it in the opposite way. We were just suggesting he try putting it in as stated in the manual,what could it hurt, he's having an issue with it.
I'm pretty sure the recommendation for the diff screw head to go to the left side of the gear box is a hold over from the rear motor days when if you put the diff screw to the right it made accessing the diff screw more difficult because of the gear cover/spur gear being in the way.

Additionally, because our cars almost exclusively travel forward a set of gears will wear together. If you reverse one of the gears the gears will wear more and usually the gearbox will be louder. I always mark my gears so I can put them back the correct direction.
waitwhat is offline  
Old 08-22-2019, 12:19 PM
  #884  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
RazorRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,828
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by waitwhat
I'm pretty sure the recommendation for the diff screw head to go to the left side of the gear box is a hold over from the rear motor days when if you put the diff screw to the right it made accessing the diff screw more difficult because of the gear cover/spur gear being in the way.
Agreed.

Iíve asked AE about this and their product support will say it matters, but... it doesnít.
RazorRC is offline  
Old 08-22-2019, 12:53 PM
  #885  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

***
fat500 likes this.

Last edited by zipperfoot; 02-11-2020 at 08:57 AM.
zipperfoot is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.