886LikesTLR 22 5.0
06-10-2019, 05:09 AM
#781
06-10-2019, 09:37 AM
#782
Tech Initiate
06-12-2019, 09:30 PM
#783
Tech Adept
Im trying to understand diff height adjustments when to up and when to go don on adjustment?
06-12-2019, 10:45 PM
#784
06-15-2019, 09:44 AM
#786
Tech Addict
The dogbones are their most efficient and free when they are flat and straight out from the diff. Anytime the dogbones are at an angle from the diff and you are on throttle the drive line will want to straighten back up again. For example if you are heavy on throttle and the diff is sitting lower, the drivetrain will be trying to straighten out and force the rear end of the buggy upward. These opposing forces of the rear end squatting with throttle and the dogbones trying to straighten back out will effectively drive the tires harder into the surface and create a stronger on throttle bite.
As drivers change the suspension for different track surfaces via the axle heights, there has to be a matching adjustment at the diff or else the dogbone plunge gets all out of whack and you start hitting the dogbones on the outdrives and stuff. So as they mentioned above it's mainly to keep the geometry the same when switching suspension around.
If you were to keep your suspension the same and just adjust the diff height. Lower = more on throttle bite, more responsive off throttle. Higher = buggy is a little freer on throttle and more stable off throttle.
As drivers change the suspension for different track surfaces via the axle heights, there has to be a matching adjustment at the diff or else the dogbone plunge gets all out of whack and you start hitting the dogbones on the outdrives and stuff. So as they mentioned above it's mainly to keep the geometry the same when switching suspension around.
If you were to keep your suspension the same and just adjust the diff height. Lower = more on throttle bite, more responsive off throttle. Higher = buggy is a little freer on throttle and more stable off throttle.
07-03-2019, 05:10 AM
#790
Sounds like you are looking at the slim wheel for the 5.0 which is just a machined down wheel used on the 4.0 and 5.0. These are mainly used for Schumacher staggered ribs which very slim and used mainly on astro, carpet and grass tracks.
07-11-2019, 04:58 AM
#792
07-11-2019, 07:30 PM
#793
With the 4th of July sale i picked up Rawspeed premounts, new body, and paint. Paint is testors color shift emerald-blue. Been looking for this kind of color shifting paint since Tamiya's blue-green was discontinued. It seems to work, if it starts to flake after some crashes I'll share it.
EDIT: Unfortunately the gamble didn’t pay off, this paint doesn’t adhere to lexan. Back to the Tamiya Pink/Gold!
the clear lexan bits I made myself, inspired by another user on here.
EDIT: Unfortunately the gamble didn’t pay off, this paint doesn’t adhere to lexan. Back to the Tamiya Pink/Gold!
the clear lexan bits I made myself, inspired by another user on here.
Last edited by I_NeedBigDrink; 07-13-2019 at 05:50 PM.
07-14-2019, 01:18 PM
#795
I once crashed into a metal pillar at pretty decent speed, but hit it right on the front hingepin/bumper. It snapped the head of the hingepin off and slightly tweaked the aluminum brace, so I just replaced them, pretty cheap. However someone crashed on the same pillar and broke the front arm. Id say carry spare front arms since front collisions are more likely, but that was my only broken part (apart from wings) and I’ve been running since January.