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TLR 22 5.0

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Old 02-16-2019, 08:40 PM
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This is my first TLR kit and overall the kit quality is very good. I was going along fine until I got to the part where you start assembling the rear end. The little screw that I’ve circled in red, is the Allen key for that in the kit? I have a heap of Allen keys but nothing that small.

edit: thanks nulk1



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Old 02-16-2019, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post

This is my first TLR kit and overall the kit quality is very good. I was going along fine until I got to the part where you start assembling the rear end. The little screw that Iíve circled in red, is the Allen key for that in the kit? I have a heap of Allen keys but nothing that small.

You'll need a 0.050" hex driver it's not included in the kit. The tools required are listed at the start of the manual
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post

This is my first TLR kit and overall the kit quality is very good. I was going along fine until I got to the part where you start assembling the rear end. The little screw that Iíve circled in red, is the Allen key for that in the kit? I have a heap of Allen keys but nothing that small.

edit: thanks nulk1


I don't recommend it but if you want to get the car built you do not have to use those screws
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
I don't recommend it but if you want to get the car built you do not have to use those screws
Those screws are very handy but aa said above not essential, I have a 3.0 that I bought after my 4.0 and took the gearbox out - without that little screw the rear suspension pretty much falls apart when you take the gearbox out.
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Last edited by Pistol123; 02-17-2019 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 02-17-2019, 01:38 PM
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Anybody race sat?
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Old 02-17-2019, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
I don't recommend it but if you want to get the car built you do not have to use those screws
Agreed, although for the 5.0 shocks you will still need a 0.05" hex driver for the shock piston screws.
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Old 02-17-2019, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC View Post
Agreed, although for the 5.0 shocks you will still need a 0.05" hex driver for the shock piston screws.
My shock cap bleed screws are 1.5mm as well as the ones on my 4.0.
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:48 PM
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Thanks for the tips, I ended up buying a 0.5 hex driver as it looks like my 8ight x-e requires it as well.
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Old 02-17-2019, 06:15 PM
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Raced the SR today. Another driver explained why my diff was getting crunchy way faster than expected - the space that the thrust bearing sits in is larger than in a normal diff, so the amount of grease I normally put in gets thrown off so the bearing dries out and gets crunchy. After packing the space with grease, the diff should run smoothly for a long time. For my track, I improved my setup by moving the battery to the back and removing the screw that connects the bottom of the waterfall to the motor plate. Next on the list is to remove the front shock limiters for more droop.
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Old 02-17-2019, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Eli View Post
My shock cap bleed screws are 1.5mm as well as the ones on my 4.0.
What about your shock piston screws?
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Old 02-17-2019, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RazorRC View Post


What about your shock piston screws?
mis-read the post, I believe my piston screw is .050" I had shock caps on my mind.
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by I_NeedBigDrink View Post
Raced the SR today. on the list is to remove the front shock limiters for more droop.
You can also just unscrew the shock ends to increase droop instead of removing spacers (easier to go back if you don't like it too), that's what you must do to increase droop on the rear shocks anyway since they aren't built with limiters to start with.
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Old 02-18-2019, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
You can also just unscrew the shock ends to increase droop instead of removing spacers (easier to go back if you don't like it too), that's what you must do to increase droop on the rear shocks anyway since they aren't built with limiters to start with.
Yeah that could work too but I want some more shock action as well, not just a larger max droop (for the front at least). I will keep that in mind if I need to increase it more or adjust the rear.
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:48 PM
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Default Longer front axles.

Can we use longer front axles of some kind so we can run all the other brands of front wheels. I have so many J concepts etc front wheels.
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Old 02-19-2019, 12:04 AM
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I did some measurements with new, unmounted TLR and AE 2wd front wheels.

TLR wheels: 24.5mm wide
AE wheels: 26mm wide

TLR true 0-offset (centerline) should be 24.5 / 2 = 12.25mm backspacing
AE true 0-offset (centerline) should be 26 / 2 = 13mm backspacing

Actual measured backspacing:
TLR: 23.25mm
AE: 19mm

Therefore the actual offsets are:
TLR: 23.25 - 12.25 = -11mm offset
AE: 19 - 13 = -6mm offset

So you would need to bring in the front axles 5mm narrower to be able to mount AE wheels.

Last edited by RazorRC; 02-19-2019 at 09:34 AM.
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