fat500

iTrader: (48)

When mounting the fan do you force the air in or turn it around and suck the hot air out? Do you drill holes in the body over the fan or cut it out? Thanks.

BigBuckORamma

Blow air onto motor, there is plenty of gap around the outside of the body for air to escape.
Cut out part of body around fan. Dont uncover the whole fan, just so a marshall doesnt put a finger into it.
Also highly recommend you only use an aluminum fan. And you may want to put a small piece of masking tape under where the fan sits, and as does have a tendency to buzz on the chassis plate, and the tape helps to dampen that a bit.

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Yes to this
https://www.exotekracing.com/22-hd-s...-ball-threads/

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

lol, I just got that exact servo arm in the mail today.

this isn't a criticism of you, but it proves to me how dead these forums are. I asked the same question in a FB group and on here. On FB I got 3 answers within an hour, bought the part on ebay, and had it show up to my house all before even getting an answer on the forum. this place was great at its peak but it's kinda sad to see how slow it is nowadays.

mes

If you don't mind reading and answering the same question three times in two days, FB groups are the place to be. I don't really blame the people, you just can't find any content.

Pistol123

And you can never find a post you have previously seen, or search for something, forums are so much better.

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

of the two, there's no question I prefer the forums, but like I said, they're just dead now.

waitwhat

iTrader: (2)

Amain has a compatibility tab that is usually pretty good at letting you know if parts fit on multiple vehicles.

Ty89m

Hey ya'll - so long story short, I'm an RC crawler guy, but the local shop has the Elite 22 5.0 kit under retail and I'm tempted to build my first buggy... I'm not a racer (not even sure there's a track where I'm at in Montana) but thought it'd be fun to build and run around in the dirt regardless. Am I getting in over my head considering my use case? For simplicity sake, what's a tried and true motor/esc combo for someone in my shoes who just wants to have some fun running it around without getting too serious? Hobbywing XR10/motor combo? What's a safe kv rating for the gearing that comes with the Elite kit? I can handle the servos/lipos, but out of my element when it comes to these buggy motor/esc's.

Thanks!

BigBuckORamma

In a word, yes.

This car isnt really designed for bashing, but for very well groomed clay, dirt, turf, and carpet surfaces.

So, i dont want to say the suspension is brittle, but its designed to be stiffer than what you would see on a basher, and if it doesnt land squarely, things are more likely to bent or break than not.

This does have the 3.5mm shock shafts, which are pretty beefy, but even then...the stroke isnt meant for massive air and flat landing.

The pinion and spur gear are uncovered under the body of the car, and generally not well protected from loose dirt getting into them. Likewise, motor cooling is a bit of a requirement, with mod motors, and with it being centrally located. And the cooling fan is pointed toward the back of the car, which, again, is not ideal for bashing conditions.

And the final thing, taking all of this into account. Because of the nature of the exotic materials used in this car (namely carbon fiber and titanium), replacement parts are expensive, and since the pandemic, some parts have become very rare. Aluminum shock caps took me almost 3 months to get on back order. Things like the carbon shock tower riser in the rear have been on back order for months as well, and is a common part to break is the car lands upside down with speed. Differential parts have been on back order as well. If you wanted to get a more durable gear diff, thats on back order too.

Honestly, for the price you are going to pay to get this car dialed, for the intended purpose you want to use it for, you are better served with a car designed for bashing, that will be forgiving to run on an unprepared surface, and cheaper to repair and fix when things inevitably go wrong.

Ty89m

I appreciate the input for sure! I should've clarified, I'm not a basher by any stretch - I'm actually pretty gentle with my toys, even the crawlers tend towards shelf queens. That said, I would be running it on the dirt roads around my property, so it would certainly get dirty, and I hadn't considered the spur/pinion being exposed to debris...not ideal. Wish there was a nice carpet track locally!

Also, thanks for the heads-up on the parts availability. I had assumed it being Losi that there would be a decent supply of spares floating around, but apparently that's not the case.

Lastly, turns out the local shop had the car listed incorrectly on their website, it was the discontinued DC, non-Elite version, hence the price that was lower than retail. I then started looking at the new 22X-4 Elite but if parts are hard to come by, I should probably steer clear as well.

Thanks.

BigBuckORamma

I've personally had better luck getting parts for the 22x-4. So far, aside from the afore mentioned aluminum shock caps, the only thing that seems to be difficult to get my hands on, is the internal metal diff gears. Mostly because the original kit only came with the center slipper, and most people want the center diff. So the internal gears are highly saught after. Plus people like to build up multiple diffs for quick swapping. That said, most people swap the front and rear internal gears to plastic for weight savings, giving them extra sets of metal gears for center diffs. Other than that, i havent had too many issues with arms, or anything like that. Even the extra diff cups and out drives have not had any noticeable delays. And if you get the 22X-4 Elite, it comes with all three diffs, so thats not even a worry.

And as far as the drivetrain is concerned, it's more bulletproof than 22 5.0. Out of the box, with the exception of the spur gear, the drivetrain is all metal components. With the Elite kit the only thing i could recommend would be the TLR332080 Alluminum Center Diff Cap. I find it makes the run out on the center spur gear much more precise, and you can run a shorter 3x5m aluminum or titanium button head screw to hold on the spur to the aluminum cap (the kit screws are steel 3x6m), further reducing rotating mass.
Plus the body seals up really tight around the chassis, and with a full Velcro strip around the outside, it would stay very clean. I would not hesitate to run my 22X-4 in dusty conditions I wouldnt even consider to run with my 22 5.0.

The only real glaring weakness of the 22X-4 is the front shock shafts really like to break on moderate nose impacts. There are some tricks to mitigate around that. Like running the 2mm eyelets to reinforce the threads.

So, if you really are set on a race style 1/10, the 22X-4 is a solid unit. Definitely not a basher, but it seems like you are in the right mind set there already. So, dont be discouraged, check out the 22X-4.

Gmwizard

Does anyone know if the gear diff for the 5.0 will work for the other 22 vehicles. I have a 22 2.0, 22t 2.0 and 22sct and all the ball diffs are the same. The only gear diff I could find that used to be made was discontinued

silence360

Can someone give me some suggestions for gearing for both 10.5 and 13.5 motors on the 22.

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

The manual has a gearing chart on page 39 - that's probably the best place to start.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...nual-MULTI.pdf