mes

The SCT axles are not absolutely required, it's a 0.8 mm difference. I tried the conversion with the standard axles on carpet and really liked it. 0 degree caster blocks would have been nice, though.

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Is this car still a good buy? I haven't raced in a long while and just getting back into it. I have a B6 but have always run TLR cars. Should I pick up the 5.0 or wait a while?

nrtv20

iTrader: (8)

If you can somehow out-wheel a 5.0 you have some serious skill! Maybe skip if you do a lot of hand out tire races? There are plenty of part swaps you can do like the front and rear arm mods to keep changing up the buggy... It feels long over due for a 6.0 but look for a used one and race happy! TLR-4-Life!

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Do the 4.0 SR parts fit this car? Like the light weight out drives, diff and slipper eliminator?

mes

They should.

OnCam

With the option 22 5.0 TLR clamping servo horn do you need to run the M3 screw directly through it into the servo spline as well? or is just the clamping screw enough..
I had my horn come loose, but perhaps it was not tight enough (& without loctite) and took a hit.

Previously with my TLR 4.0 horn you just put the screw through into the spline itself. (not clamping style)

SCRAFAN

iTrader: (20)

You need both, with a SMALL dab of blue locktite on the 3 mm screw.

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

As with any clamping-style servo horn, you should only need the clamping screw...and, no, you shouldn't need any threadlock. Chances are, you probably didn't have it tightened enough. That being said, some people still add a second screw into the spline, sorta-kinda as a "backup". When doing this, you can not only go with a shorter screw (say, something that sits into the spline only 3-4mm), but, you can also use some threadlock, so as to "secure" the "backup screw". If you opt to do this, use as little threadlock as possible, as the purpose of said screw isn't really to hold the horn tightly onto the spline (that's the 'clamping' screw's job), but to help prevent the horn from falling off if the 'clamping' screw fails.

One problem I've discovered with several "clamp" style servo horns (including TLR) is that they tend to use either an aluminum screw, or a steel alloy screw, both of which can strip quite easily. I always use the XRAY clamping horns (as well as XRAY clamping hexes) - they use stronger steel screws, which rarely strip. Hopefully, this helps.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

I think you should definitely use the servo screw in addition to the clamp. I threadlock both screws. You should also always use the matching manufacturer's servo horn because each car is made to use a specific offset and distance horn.

BigBuckORamma

I have the TLR clamping servo horn, and i 100% use both screws.

My steps for installation are as follows.

Power on Servo to center.
Remove clamping screw from the servo horn.
Place small dab of loctite on clamping screw, and partially thread it in to the horn.
Place the servo horn onto the servo spline.
Take the servo horn mounting screw provided by the servo manufacturer (not all screws are the same, the provided TLR servo screw is only intended for Spektrum Servos, for example), and gently tighten it until the horn has fully seated on the bottom of the spline, or the top of the horn.
Then tighten down the clamping screw on the servo horn to secure it.
Then finally snug down the central servo horn screw to hold everything together.

In this way, the splines are seated and held under slight tension while the clamping force on the horn is increased, so it cant "squeeze off", for lack of a better term. Then all firmly held in place by the servo horn set screw, so nothing should back off or get loose.
I have yet to lose a servo horn or have a screw back out with this method.

mes

LIke in many cases, it's best to consider what the designer intended with the item in question. If you are of the opinion that the hole is only design features or there to safe weight, ignore them. If there is a threaded part behind, chances are high that it is there to accept a screw. No offense intended by any means!

I have never heard that someone uses an aluminium screw to secure a servo horn or clamping hex, it is more likely that you strip the thread in low-quality aluminium or break a screw just because it is tiny. I don't see any need or reason to promote Xray/Hudy stuff in a TLR thread. And yes, I have had several of their kits, if anyone should be wondering.

Bcollins82

iTrader: (1)

I’m kinda blown away that anyone feels like the clamp style horns don’t need a screw into the servo. Is it THAT much extra weight? Lol I get it, maybe you’ve run it like that forever without issue, but it seems like a silly place to save weight instead of having a bit of a safety net?

Ninetyeight740

iTrader: (4)

1 million percent agree. I could not imagine a dnf in a main event because of it.

rms1776

Any one know where this part is supposed to go on the car it just showed up on horizon hobby?

elex300

iTrader: (110)

Im sure there will be an explanation for all the new parts on the 22 and 22X-4 very soon.