Rhett McNair

iTrader: (23)

It’s been a couple years since I ran the high wing, and that was on clay. I need to do a back to back comparison on carpet.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

I tend to lead with the low wing (carpet) for more initial steering. The high wing can feel like it has less initial steering but smoother through entry, mid, exit.

There are some some conditions where the high wing seems to get the nose down better on jumps.

Some of the front tire options can feel ‘edgy’ off center, when new, which the high wing can minimize.

All preference.

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

TLR fronts are like a 4w buggy, basically a flat face. AE wheels have a 6mm or so deep dish, making the front offset 6mm wider roughly. I don't have any TLR wheels here to measure to be exact though.

A big problem is a lot of carpet races especially over in the UK do handout tires and so schumachers aes and xrays and whatever else can use the same wheels. So TLR drivers have to mount their own stuff. So it kinda ruins the handout aspect.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

I seem to recall one of the reasons for moving towards narrowing the front was to help solve the issue of spec-tire/handout conformity by using the same offset front wheel but….

For the folks that are NOT racing at those major events or nationals, strictly club events that within reason are following realistic dimensions which is faster/performance?

TLR NARROW WHEEL with ‘stock’ width front end

OR

AE/YOK/X standard wheel with the ‘narrow/modified’ width front end

Surely I can pitch this question to Todd and Team but I am curious what this group thinks.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

Thank you for the clarification, I will have to test to find my preference.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

that makes sense, thanks!

Front tires should be the same for 2WD carpet though as offset is associated with the mounting, rather than the width of the wheel itself.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

the consensus for pistons on carpet are the "thin" pistons and AE V2 Red Front and AE V2 Blue Rears? Same size piston holes as the kit setup or up a tenth or 2?

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

REVISED, new approximate measurements

STANDARD TLR 22 FRONT END
- Standard Buggy Wheel (210/250)
- - inside track width (inside tire to tire) about 210mm
- - outside track width (outside tire to outside tire) about 250mm

- TLR Narrow Buggy Wheel (200/240)
- - inside track width (inside tire to tire) about 200mm
- - outside track width (outside tire to outside tire) about 240mm

MODIFIED/NARROW TLR 22 FRONT END
- Standard Buggy Wheel (200/240)
- - inside track width (inside tire to tire) about 200mm
- - outside track width (outside tire to outside tire) about 240mm

- TLR Narrow Buggy Wheel (190/230)
- - inside track width (inside tire to tire) about 190mm
- - outside track width (outside tire to outside tire) about 230mm

• Seems like the practical track width is the 200/240 regardless of front end type
• The 200/240 with the modified front end should give you access to use standard buggy fronts
• The 210/250 when tested wasn’t practical, front end was too wide

Next stop the track. I am curious to see if there is a difference in feel. Will need to build up a standard front end for backup.

Brian L

iTrader: (21)

The mod front end let's the car roll a lot more on the front end. I have basically 2 front ends built and can swap back and forth between them in a few minutes. I pretty much always run the mod front end for carpet.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Anyone track down a Phend setup sheet from the FL Champs?

AxiomJacob

iTrader: (27)

1.5/1.7 thin pistons for most of us with the springs you need mentioned. I’m running yellow AE fronts now on astro

TurnNBurn

I’ve always said that folks who will primarily be running on carpet have the toughest choice… The C/D blocks will just give you a greater range to adjust RC and pivot width a bit, but the VHA conversion kit will also give you rear hub height adjustment (considering that the standard rear hub is just set to the equivalent of the 0 height of the VHA hub), much more precise outer link adjustment, and adjustable axle plunge. Buy those two, and you’re already in almost $100 more. When you consider that you also get the Aluminum steering rack and servo mount, titanium turnbuckles, carbon shock towers, it would be tough to

I don’t know. The Elite was a no brainer if you race on Dirt/Clay, which pretty much explains why they eventually discontinued the DC - everyone was buying the Elite anyway. I’m honestly surprised they never replaced the AC with an AC Elite. So, back to the question - could you get away with just the C/D block conversion? Maybe - but you’ll probably want to get that VHA conversion eventually.

Pistol123

I am a little out of date on 22 series cars but my 4.0 had hubs where you can raise and lower them with hub inserts from 0 to +3mm - I believe are the same hubs used on the 5.0 ac, but I don't know how the elite ones work.

We had a couple of TLR 22 5.0 running at my local bumpy astro track and nothing else landed to flat or handled the bumps anything like the TLR cars. Being UK based most cars are AE, XRay or Schumacher.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

I was looking at that as well. MAYBE I can find a used Elite lol.

pink_sleeve

iTrader: (220)

Was there ever some sort of shock conversion kit to convert the elite kit shocks to what the team guys where running on dirt?