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TLR 22 5.0

Old 07-04-2020, 06:27 PM
  #1846  
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Another point to make between the two diffs is the consistency and durability. For the fist metal diff, it was harder to assemble and you need to attach the outdrives via set screw which came off often if not cranked down. For the g2 diff, it is easier to build, option of metal or composite gears, and the outdrives attach via a pin inside the diff so no chance of them coming off. The g2 is overall better imo.
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:32 PM
  #1847  
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Originally Posted by dbracn
Another point to make between the two diffs is the consistency and durability. For the fist metal diff, it was harder to assemble and you need to attach the outdrives via set screw which came off often if not cranked down. For the g2 diff, it is easier to build, option of metal or composite gears, and the outdrives attach via a pin inside the diff so no chance of them coming off. The g2 is overall better imo.
Yeah, the 22-4 used the same design with the set screws. If you clean everything with solvent, use loctite, and let it cure for 24 hours there are no issues. Those issues arise from not understanding that loctite needs clean working surfaces and time to cure to full strength.
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Old 07-05-2020, 12:23 AM
  #1848  
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Waitwhat your a gentlemen and a scholar. Plastic diff ordered for carpet. Thankyou
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Old 07-06-2020, 06:55 PM
  #1849  
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Hey all,

Interesting question but I currently purchased the TLR 22 5.0 carpet edition, But I'am setting it up for dirt. I come from a 1/8 nitro buggy background so I prefer the adjust ability of a gear diff with oil.
First question, what do people run in terms of diff oil for off-road conditions? I started with 3000wt but now going to try 5000 weight next. My track is high grip outdoor hardpack, its an interesting dirt, "slick surface" used in bmx racing tracks.

Second question: I read somewhere about people placing the rear shocks, behind the shock tower, but cant find the explanation for this. What did this do too the car?
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Old 07-07-2020, 12:05 PM
  #1850  
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I would look at the DC manual on the TLR website and set the car up close to that or look at a setup there for a dirt car that has similar track conditions to yours and go off of it. Also most guys would say use a ball diff on dirt or clay. They are finicky though. As far as shock position it does make a big difference what it is Im not sure but as I said before start with what others have had success with and work from there.
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Old 07-07-2020, 12:18 PM
  #1851  
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Even though its slick the track may have a lot of grip using the correct tire.. check what others are using, could be Jconcepts ellipse or similar.

Moving the shocks to the rear of the tower helps to shift the weight of the car back over the rear wheels for more traction, however your track might actually have enough grip to keep them forward and retain the agility of the car.
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Old 07-07-2020, 03:32 PM
  #1852  
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Default Diff/ Gearbox Access

Just built a 5.0 Elite and thereís a lot of drivetrain noise. Diff is fine. Think it might be the idler. Is there a video or instructions anywhere on the quickest way to tear down the gearbox on these things or just completely tear it down?
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Old 07-07-2020, 04:05 PM
  #1853  
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You have to take the gearbox back out of the car, online TLR 5.0 manual shows it best I think..

Double check you have installed the correct diff height shim inserts as well..

Its not the gear mesh too tight? Also sometimes they way you tighten the 2x screws to hold the gearbox together can add noise / friction with the bearings etc. ie don't over do it.. or could be a bad bearing
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Old 07-07-2020, 04:12 PM
  #1854  
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Originally Posted by Losi boy
Hey all,

Interesting question but I currently purchased the TLR 22 5.0 carpet edition, But I'am setting it up for dirt. I come from a 1/8 nitro buggy background so I prefer the adjust ability of a gear diff with oil.
First question, what do people run in terms of diff oil for off-road conditions? I started with 3000wt but now going to try 5000 weight next. My track is high grip outdoor hardpack, its an interesting dirt, "slick surface" used in bmx racing tracks.

Second question: I read somewhere about people placing the rear shocks, behind the shock tower, but cant find the explanation for this. What did this do too the car?
OnCamís response about the shocks is the right idea regarding weight bias. Likewise, the option to use a 4.0 Standup gearbox assembly is the same idea - it moves the motor a little further back to help plant the rear.

it should be noted, however, that I have yet to hear of anyone using the shocks in the rear on dirt. The base setup, which provides a good neutral feel for most that I have seen, has them mounted in front of the arms. Likewise, TLR seems pretty committed toward making the laydown work in all conditions.

if you havenít seen it, I totally recommend that you check out last Thursdayís TLR live stream with Frank Root, which you can find either on the TLR Facebook group, or on their YouTube channel. Frank dropped a wealth of knowledge of both the 22 and 22X-4 and even dedicated some time explaining when you would want to use one diff over the other. TL;DR versiůn is that you should really only use the gear diff in high grip conditions, and he gives a good explanation why.
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Old 07-07-2020, 04:42 PM
  #1855  
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Originally Posted by OnCam
You have to take the gearbox back out of the car, online TLR 5.0 manual shows it best I think..

Double check you have installed the correct diff height shim inserts as well..

Its not the gear mesh too tight? Also sometimes they way you tighten the 2x screws to hold the gearbox together can add noise / friction with the bearings etc. ie don't over do it.. or could be a bad bearing
thanks. I tear it all down and check it again.
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Old 07-08-2020, 11:18 AM
  #1856  
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Originally Posted by NitroKiwi
thanks. I tear it all down and check it again.
i noticed some inserts resulted in a tight gear mesh, even installed correctly with the corresponding diff/idler inserts according to the manual. I simply kept playing with combos until i was happy with mesh and diff height. One screw in the middle to hold the transmission cases snugly together while you test in your hand is all thats needed.
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Old 07-09-2020, 04:29 PM
  #1857  
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Yeah, the inserts for the idler can be a little finicky. I didnít have any issues with my Elite, but it took popping them in and out a few times on the SR I built for my daughter before I got the bit of binding in check.
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Old 07-09-2020, 06:19 PM
  #1858  
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I just built my 5.0 DC Elite kit, and I ran into an issue i've never had before. The diff rings come in their own bag as you all know, and i'm not sure if they all come like this or not, but my diff rings came covered in a thick translucent substance.... and the manual mentioned nothing, and a quick google search showed nothing, so I wiped a little bit off it off, but I did not clean it off completely. I figured that it was probably there for a reason, even though it felt tacky, like something that should never be in a diff. Long story short... I finished the car, and when I went to test run it, the transmission is EXTREMELY loud, almost like it's worn, and I cannot get the diff set properly. I'm not a newbie by any means to building kits (been building kits for 23 years now), but this is my first Losi kit. PLEASE tell me that I don't have to tear apart a brand new car, before even driving it ONCE, to rebuild an issue that wasn't even my fault. If the diff rings come covered in some crap that I have to clean off, then the directions not mentioning that is a HUGE issue in my opinion. Thoughts?
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Old 07-09-2020, 06:44 PM
  #1859  
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I just read back in the thread and seen other people have had noise issues. It's nice to know that maybe it's not my diff, but I'm not gonna swap out inserts, I want to use the base setup, and I know I installed my inserts properly. I've built and rebuilt countless Associated transmissions and never ran into an issue like this. For a car that costs damn near 400 dollars after taxes, I expect the transmission to at least be made well enough to mesh up when built to SPEC. Back when AE sold the different levels of their kits, even the base kit B3, you know, the one with the ratty 3 piece wheels, it still had a smoother trans build than this, and it was El Cheapo. If Losi cannot get consistently acceptable tolerances in their kits, especially in critical areas, then that price point is INSANE. Nobody should drop nearly half a thousand dollars on a kit and just cross their fingers and hope they don't get a junky one. I hope a company like 3Racing gets heavy in the Off-Road market.
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Old 07-09-2020, 07:37 PM
  #1860  
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I can understand your frustration for something like this..

I just replaced my diff rings with new TLR ones., they also came with what I could tell was the TLR diff lube on them. From memory I just wiped them down,

Sounds like you've done a few before so I'm assuming you've done it correctly, but just to check..

Did you grease the slot in both the out drives before putting the rings on, I normally fill the slot so its flush with TLR diff grease.

Also TLR diff grease heavy where the balls slot in the diff gear, run grease around pushing grease into the holes first...then push the balls in..

There's only 2 side case screws I think that hold the trans together, just back them off a tiny 1/8-1/4 a turn and feel it spin and listen to the change till you find a happy place of noise before you bolt it into the car.
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