fantomdude

Depends on what track grip you are running on. You may want to get a brass C block to offset the weight you loose by running light weight rear diff if you need a little more bite. Unless your running on High bite surface +2 shock towers are not needed. The VHA hubs are not needed. If you want to raise the rear hubs exotek has a rear hub that comes with height adjustment and you don't need new arms. its a cheaper way to go. I run an SR and the only thing I did to mine is the +2mm towers cause it helped mine with traction rolling on the high bite surface and the aluminum servo horn and servo mount. I just like the servo mount and I needed the weight. I have titanium screws, ball studs, turnbuckles, shock standoffs, aluminum cva bones and ceramic bearings. With all that I had to put an aluminum front pivot and the brass c block to bring it back up to legal weight. I also run the gen 2 shocks. I like the feel of them better than the gen 3 shocks that came with the SR. My car is dialed.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

Anyone running 17.5 stock at TRCR with the 22 5.0/Elite car, I'm looking for a good place to start FDR gearing for a Trinity Cert X-Factory (High traction with many short runup jumps and short shoots)? Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Losi Chaser

hit up David V Mclean on TRCR’s facebook page.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

Thank you

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

For those running the car on carpet, its seems to not want to rotate correctly. Can send setup sheet for those who want to take a stab at it. Track is high grip black Office Depot carpet that is smallish and tight in the in field area. Car is too flat in the corners without ability to really push it. Other then that jumping and landing is second to none.

RazorRC

iTrader: (4)

Are you running the +2 shock towers?

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Have run both +2 and standard. Both 3.5 and 3.00 shocks. Same issue.

dbracn

iTrader: (27)

Sent a message to you as i didnt want to type it all here. LMK what you think.

Mirkinator

iTrader: (3)

What does the VHD conversion kit do in terms of performance handling? Is the VHD drive shaft required for the conversion? What does “VHD” even stand for?

I have an AC kit ontw and trying my hand at some 17.5t action. Been reading up on this thread and seems this VHD kit, upgraded c and d blocks and +2mm shock towers are some first candidates to improve lap times?

Will of course be trying the setup right out of the box, but wondering whats working well with the AC kit currently.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

its a decent car out of the box, but I couldnt get it to stop pushing. It was because they swaybars were backwards having a 1.3 in the front and 1.0 in the rear didnt allow the front to turn. Got swaybar kits and fumbled with them for awhile, but the adjustments I really needed (pin width, anti-squat, toe) werent able to be adjusted how I wanted them. Car seriously lacks rotation in stock form as well. Still trying to dial in some rotation so I have other springs coming in, suggest AE V2 red front and AE V2 yellow and blue. the VHD axles allow pin dive into the outdrives which cuase mechanical grip. Adjust to your liking. The newer hubs also allow more precise control over camber length. So far a full elite upgrade to my AC has made the car 1000% better then the original AC. Just need to work on getting some rotation and it will be on par with my Yokomo, Schumacher, and AE rides. Im brand agnostic so I dont favor one company over another. I am just calling it as I see it, and the TLR in stock AC form is the worst of the new cars out there.

TurnNBurn

Do you mean VHA kit? If so, it stands for Variable Height Axle, which allows you to adjust the height of where the lower arm mounts to the hub. I’d say that this is essential if you find yourself running at both low and High grip tracks. You have this ability up front out of the box, thanks to the adjustable kingpin spacers - the VHA Kit allows you to do the same in the rear with 5 adjustable heights. So yeah, I’d say that the combination of the Elite C-D blocks and the VHA kit are good to have. The carbon shock towers are good to have if you feel you need the +2 adjustment, otherwise, I wouldn’t say they are absolutely necessary. That being said, more adjustability is always good, as long as you are OK with making the investment.

Mirkinator

iTrader: (3)

Thank you! Yes i did mean VHA >.< Ill get the VHA kit and the blocks to start. Try without them first so i can feel the difference. Im new to indoor and 2wd buggy stock. Have the feeling its going to be quite the learning experience!

Anywho, appreciate any other suggestions anyone might have.

dcerven94

iTrader: (1)

Ive heard a few people acknowledge that they were looking for more steering, just as i was. extra 1mm of wheelbase and a smidge less rear toe solved it for me. i also moved the diff up but that was for a different theory... running on med-high bite smooth clay. be sure that all the adjustable inserts (diff, idler, c&d blocks) firmly click in place. weight bias is very effective on 2wd buggy. if you start playing with online setups and its still funky, compare the weight of electronics used on the setup sheet vs your own (most often overlooked is the steering servo)

Mirkinator

iTrader: (3)

Will check those things, thanks. I was actually also thinking of getting some scales to see the weight bias. But I should probably first make sure I can run strong, consistent laptimes first.

Looks like in two weeks we will be able to have groups of 10 people at the indoor track! Guess ill have to be one of the first 10 to show up.

dcerven94

iTrader: (1)

Scales are more common for onroad, all you should need is camber gauge and a good ride height gauge. a pair of micrometers are handy for measuring shock stroke