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TLR 22 5.0

Old 03-27-2020, 12:59 PM
  #1726  
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G2 shocks here also ......soaked up the bumps better, faster thru the corners for me.
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Old 03-27-2020, 01:25 PM
  #1727  
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Can the G2 metal gears TLR232099 be used with the G2 Composite Gear diff housing?
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Old 03-27-2020, 02:48 PM
  #1728  
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David A:

I would say yes since they are both the same gear diffs just one uses internal metal gears and the other uses internal composite gears. There is an aluminum cap you can get but i found no issues with the stock stuff. With the metal gears you can also run 2 gear which imo has been a lot better than the 4 gears.
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Old 03-27-2020, 02:49 PM
  #1729  
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jonski,

For your shock seals, the only issue was with the 3.0 shaft shocks. They corrected the issue with the 3.5 shocks on the elite. Just recommend if you put in new orings to soak them for about a half hour in oil to induce some swelling making it a better seal.
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Old 03-29-2020, 07:43 AM
  #1730  
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the fix to use g3 3mm shocks is, to shave the center bushing to 2.9 to 3mm....it comes 3.3 mm... i have pretty much exclusivity used g3 3mm shocks on smallish tracks...if i want the car more numb i would go to the 3.5mm shock.....the g2 is a great shock, and probably the easiest to maintain,
i do not soak my xrings, i just use 1up shock grease, and build them...
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Old 03-30-2020, 04:43 PM
  #1731  
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Is there any rumors of an AC Elite coming?
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Old 03-30-2020, 06:15 PM
  #1732  
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Originally Posted by TTM0TION
Is there any rumors of an AC Elite coming?
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Nope. When asked previously, Frank Root said there was no real need to do that. All you need to do is slap a gear diff in an AC and you're good to go on carpet/turf.
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Old 03-30-2020, 07:44 PM
  #1733  
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Originally Posted by Phugazi
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Nope. When asked previously, Frank Root said there was no real need to do that. All you need to do is slap a gear diff in an AC and you're good to go on carpet/turf.

You mean a gear diff in an Elite and youíre good to go? Iím thinking thatís my move right now. Sway bars from the AC that important?
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Old 03-30-2020, 08:33 PM
  #1734  
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Anyone know the dimensions of the red spacer behind the slipper. Just got a used Elite and itís missing. Thanks
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Old 03-31-2020, 10:30 AM
  #1735  
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Originally Posted by jonski
Anyone know the dimensions of the red spacer behind the slipper. Just got a used Elite and itís missing. Thanks

6.95mm OD x 5.08mm ID x 2.64mm long
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Old 04-04-2020, 12:26 AM
  #1736  
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To touch on the g3 3mm shocks I was doing exactly as Matt M. explained, shaving down that center bushing and then the shocks were insanely smooth especially when using 1up blue shock seal lube i could get the body to slide down on itself with fresh seals and still have enough stiction to make a good seal and not leak oil. I would put just a small amount on the shock shaft and build the cartridge on the shaft and insert it in the shock body all pre-built and then again put some more on the threads as I inserted it when built. (I could go more into detail on this if requested) The idea was to just get the lube between the shaft and the seal. This method was explained and showed to me from Randy the owner of 1up racing a few years ago.

Now fast forward we now have the G3 V2 bushings and x-rings. The center bushing is now thinner I believe 2.85mm as I measured mine while building the 22X-4 and the G2 x-rings are now slightly smaller. I build them the same way and they feel really nice. I have zero seepage where sometimes i would get a small amount of seep when building my original g3 3mm shocks with modified center bushing.

So, what is recommended is purchasing the V2 bushings and new V2 seals for your 3mm G3 shocks if you're running 3mm shocks from the 5.0.

I will make an effort to help with questions if not answered by the other great members on here as I know Frank is stepping away from this duty. I can not replace Frank, but I have a pretty good knowledge and am willing to do my best.

Cheers and stay healthy!
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Old 04-04-2020, 03:24 AM
  #1737  
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While I was not able to test the G2 and G3 shocks back to back, I must say I've been liking the 3.5 shafts on my 3.0 and T 4.0 back then, and running the 5.0 with a 17.5 on a carpet track except for the shocks loading up after landing, which can be remedied with thin pistons. I've always liked the weight transfer characteristics of thicker shock shafts, which to some extent can also be found on the Yokomo cars (3.3 mm) I used to run. Therefore I have not bought the 3 mm conversion kit recommended for high-grip so far, but I'll give the 22X-4 shocks a try on the 5.0 for sure.

I am positive that people will be happy with the new internals, and after adding the cool looking new alumum caps, the shocks should be all but identical to the G2s with the option to run lower ride heights. On the Yokomos, I felt that the aluminum caps created more traction and made the car more prone to traction rolling on high-grip astro and carpet. Did you experience something similar on the 5.0?
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Old 04-04-2020, 05:10 AM
  #1738  
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Originally Posted by mes
While I was not able to test the G2 and G3 shocks back to back, I must say I've been liking the 3.5 shafts on my 3.0 and T 4.0 back then, and running the 5.0 with a 17.5 on a carpet track except for the shocks loading up after landing, which can be remedied with thin pistons. I've always liked the weight transfer characteristics of thicker shock shafts, which to some extent can also be found on the Yokomo cars (3.3 mm) I used to run. Therefore I have not bought the 3 mm conversion kit recommended for high-grip so far, but I'll give the 22X-4 shocks a try on the 5.0 for sure.

I am positive that people will be happy with the new internals, and after adding the cool looking new alumum caps, the shocks should be all but identical to the G2s with the option to run lower ride heights. On the Yokomos, I felt that the aluminum caps created more traction and made the car more prone to traction rolling on high-grip astro and carpet. Did you experience something similar on the 5.0?
I cant say that I noticed a difference in grip or traction rolling by going to the aluminum G3 caps. I prefer the aluminum caps as they don't get excess play on the upper shock bushing and it seems the bushings last longer. However the aluminum caps can be prone to hanging up on the o-ring so when I built my latest shocks with the aluminum caps I took a small file and gently chambered the edge at a 45 degree angle. It did not take long to do and I believe it will resolve the o-ring getting caught on the cap when tightening it onto the body. However I have not had an issue with the o-ring not sealing this whole time before doing this to my latest caps. I also make sure theres a small amount of shock oil on the o-ring as I tighten the cap which is good insurance.
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Old 04-04-2020, 12:50 PM
  #1739  
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Originally Posted by TTM0TION
You mean a gear diff in an Elite and youíre good to go? Iím thinking thatís my move right now. Sway bars from the AC that important?
That will likely vary from track to track, but if you will be racing on a variety of Astro/Carpet surfaces, it wouldnít be a bad idea to have them in your parts box.
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Old 04-04-2020, 05:18 PM
  #1740  
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Originally Posted by TTM0TION
You mean a gear diff in an Elite and youíre good to go? Iím thinking thatís my move right now. Sway bars from the AC that important?
​​​​​​
Yes, you're are correct, I meant Elite. I have an AC so I had to go the other direction and add the VHA conversion, C & D block and pills to make it an Elite.

I use my rear sway bar from the AC kit. Was running the front too but tried running without it once and liked the feel better.
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