ouhockeyplayer

I have a camber gauge, but is there anything you recommend for a toe gauge? Also, any base camber and toe settings you recommend or just measure and verify that the stock settings are the same as the setup sheet in the manual?

waitwhat

iTrader: (4)

I always start with -1.5° of camber and 0° toe. I don't trust setting anything by length of turnbuckle. I always verify camber with a gauge. You can check toe with the camber gauge by laying it flat on the floor with the bottom of the camber gauge against a wall. Make sure you have your radio on when you check toe. Make sure your steering rack is centered perfectly, otherwise you will have asymmetric steering. Pay attention to the clean running patch of the dirty tires. If the tread is clean all the way from sidewall to sidewall you are getting the most from the tires. If the tire wear is out of center make camber adjustments to center it up.

Pistol123

On the 4.0 I had an issue running the stock dirt set up with the lrc front pivot - too much initial roll/understeer then too much mid corner and exit corner steering fitting the hrc front pivot without the spacer sorted it.

Good luck.

ouhockeyplayer

Thank you everyone for setting me down the right path to get handling dialed in. This was all great info.

Lineman26

So I picked up the Elite kit total spur of the monent a couple weeks ago when I stopped by my LHS and he had one on the shelf. I had been thinking about grabbing my first new 2wd buggy in years as just the week prior I had picked up the Tekno EB410.2 kit, which was my first 1/10 4wd buggy since the original B44.. Ive got all the bigger Tekno rigs and have been running 1/8 stuff for 20 years, but so far Im having a blast with the little ones. No major racing, just having fun with them but one thing I wanted to try if available are front and rear sway bars for the TLR. I see they offer a front kit for the 5.0, but on the Amain site it doesnt list the Elite as compatible, and all Ive found for rear setups of listed for the 4.0. Anyone point me in the right direction as Ive seen TLR drivers listing sway bars on their setup sheets... TIA!

jmitchell

iTrader: (3)

The 5.0 front sway bar will fit on the Elite. the 4.0 rear sway bar will also fit a 5.0 without issue.

Lineman26

Thanks, thats what i hoped, but I was at the point where i was zooming in on the pictures of the parts online while holding the car trying to determine if the parts even looked close, which the front ones did, but I couldnt tell where the rear sway bar holder is supposed to mount. The one spot that looks like the mount would fit is so high on the bulkhead that it looks like the rear sway bar would have to go above the rear camber links...

Couple more things. I was also trying to figure out if the front brass pivot block, part number TLR334020 fits the Elite. Once again the Amain compatibility chart only goes as high as the 3.0 series, but I know that many of their items dont get the lists updated as the newer versions of vehicles come out. Lastly, every car I get I typically buy up several different sets of springs, pistons, the sway bars etc as I enjoy trying out and seeing the differences that making changes do, but before I order a bunch of parts I want to make sure Im not buying parts like springs that are so hard or soft that there would never be a situation where they would be a good option. Now after reading a bit of this thread it appears that quite a few guys use the AE springs? That would be easier and cheaper as the LHS 3 miles from my house has all the different sets of AE springs in the soft, medium and stiff packs that come with I think 4 pairs per set in stock so I would prefer to just grab all those. I just dont know if I should get all 3 sets for both front and rear, or if either the soft or hard sets are so far off what the Elite needs that they wouldnt work at all.

Ive always been sort of crazy when it comes to aftermarket and upgrade or tuning parts for every RC Ive had. I was strugging for days trying to dial in the suspension on my Tekno SCT410.3 when I hit the track with it that after I think the 3rd day I went home and ordered every spring and sway bar made, including both the normal springs and the low frequency, 3 sets of Tekno pistons, a couple sets of VRP Gamechager pistons, HRC hubs etc. In the end it mostly came down to the fact that I needed to drive that truck much differently on the track than my 1/8 Tekno buggy and truggy and it just took a while to get the hang of it, especially learning how to get it to fly level. I destroyed 2 new bodies in the first 2 days, only running 2 packs per day haha....

jmitchell

iTrader: (3)

Rear sway bar mounts on top of the rear shock tower mounting screws on the front of the shock tower. Just look up the AC version and you should see it in the stock pictures, or find it in the AC manual.

Finding the right springs for what you are doing can take some time, unless you are able to talk with the local racers and see start with what they are running.
I race mostly on clay and find that I am usually around the same spring setup (rear=TLR LF white, front=AE V1 white or red). Carpet or turf usually requires stiffer springs.

TurnNBurn

Yep, if you go to the TLR website for the Elite’s Optional Parts listing, the 4.0 rear kit is listed there. It’s the same part, so they haven’t bothered updating the description (i.e. “4.0/5.0 Rear Sway Bar Kit”). If it’s not listed on A Main’s site as being compatible, that’s their omission.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Has anyone heard when the metal g2 diff wil he available? Elite lacks rotation running 4 gear 5000, tried 4 gear 3000, didn’t notice much difference, and it’s still pushing. Grey Office Depot carpet. And Schumacher cactus rears, cut stagger fronts. Small technical track.

dbracn

iTrader: (28)

jpcopeland1--did you try any higher oil? We run on small black/grey carpet and I use 2 gear metal with 30k. Tried 10k with 2 gear metal but a little twitchy so the higher oil balanced it out with smoothness and rotation. I would guess 4 gear plastic would be abou 10-20k in that range.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

I need the 2 gear to get the car to rotate. 4 gear doesn’t allow it to do that no matter what diff oil I use. I drove a friends who had the 2 gear metal diff and the car rotated properly. The track can get overly technical for being so smal. Car won’t change direction fast enough without pushing.

NYURDRMS

Hey Guys,
New to the hobby and I just got done building my TLR 22 5.0. It seems the front suspension is way too tight. In fact when pushed down, it does not spring back up, I have to actually manually pull the wheels back down. I assume I may have filled the shocks incorrectly. Any advice, before I start breaking the front end back down?
Thanks,
Chad

Jeff H

iTrader: (2)

I just finished building the same kit. I would disconnect the shocks completely and try cycling the suspension without them to see if it moves freely. And try the shocks without them mounted. The shocks with the including springs and fluid should move pretty easily as they are pretty soft.

NYURDRMS

Thanks, I will give that a shot.