K_Esp19

So decided on a Sanwa m12 RS. As far as the Schumacher setup, they are the cactus and cut staggers.

As far as the track, I can’t post urls yet, but search AJC hobbies.

So far the build is going well. Pretty straight forward. I like how everything for one section of the build is in one bag. One thing I’m going to be redoing are the front control arms. The left one seems to have some bind when inserting the pin through the arm. Its not binding at all just didn’t go in as smooth as the right side.

{tpc}

iTrader: (26)

Are there any rumblings on TLR coming out with an AC "Elite" version? I know some guys now are just getting the DC "Elite" and making some mods to run on astro, but just wondering if it might be worth it to wait before investing in a DC. I only run on astro.

vr6

iTrader: (22)

nope, i asked a very faint type question on a popular facebook group page and got hammered for just bringing it up. all of the recent carpet/astro setups posted by pro level and regional team drivers are starting with the elite and making the necessary purchases to run on artificial surface.

so anyone running the ac kit or thinking about it will be SOL and have to look at setup recommendations from a year ago. i currently run the ac kit and i am very happy with it, i will not go down the yellow brick road again like i did with converting the kit 3.0 to a laydown setup and have a shitty car.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

They're blowing these cars out in the online stores, is there a new iteration in the works?

fifi

Something with easy access diff 😁

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

The Elite pretty much replaces the AC/DC/SR.

ouhockeyplayer

I ran my 22 5.0 SR for the first time and was having a lot of issues with the car wanting to push and not turn. Changing from AKA chain links to Pro Line Inversion tires seemed to help, but the issue was still there. Wondering if adding the brass electronics mounting plate would help with front end bite? I'm running the box setup at the moment, so any setup changes are welcomed.

TurnNBurn

If you want the weight a little more directly over the front suspension, I suppose you could opt for the 50g brass front pivot block and/or brass kick angle shim.

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

When I had the SR, using a front wing, using a 26g plate under the battery, and using the springs and oil recommended for the track I was running on helped a lot with steering and overall grip. I found moving the battery forward did help with steering but rear traction suffered. I'd make one adjustment at a time to see if it improves front traction.

ouhockeyplayer

Thank you boh. I didn't know there was a brass kick angle shim. I might give that a try first to put more weight over the from wheels.

waitwhat

iTrader: (4)

Where in the corner does it lack steering?

ouhockeyplayer

I would say corner entry. Sometimes if I hit the blue groove just right I'll get better steering action.

waitwhat

iTrader: (4)

Are you running any drag brake? 5-15% drag brake will help weight transfer when you want to make the car change direction.

What are you running for front camber and toe?

If you like the way the car drives otherwise I wouldn't add weight. The car will jump and land differently, and accelerate more slowly because it is heavier.

ouhockeyplayer

I'll have to check my ESC settings. I can't recall what drag brake is setup as. Front camber and toe should be whatever the box setup is (turn buckles where setup per the manual). The car definitely jumps very well and I can definitely fell how much slower the 17.5 buggy feels to my Xray mod so I was Leary about adding weight to it but if I'm losing a lot of speed in the corners.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

Set camber/toe after you build it and before you run it, the numbers in the book are usually off by quite a bit, especially depending on your ride height. Measure it.