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TLR 22 5.0

Old 02-20-2020, 03:30 AM
  #1621  
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Default Ball ends

Howdy,
been reading through since pg 50 but as of tonight, skipped past 92 and signed in because quite honestly I haven’t found a zero slop ball end to redo all the rods. If anyone can chime in and give any part number that would help the absolute horrid resemblance to an associated cars slop with new ball ends, it would be most appreciated.
I started with the ball end kit that fits “all 22”, and that was wretched, horrible slop, and thankfully the local norcal hobbies hobby shop swapped these out for
TLR 234107 HD set, but after installing the first rear link there’s a tenth of a mil on EACH end which is horribly unacceptable - NEW. Does anyone have a part number for a proper fit link set on a 5.0 that fits without ‘made in china slop’?
thank you for any assistance and desperate for an acceptable fitted car.
thanks,
-W-
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Old 02-20-2020, 08:51 AM
  #1622  
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Originally Posted by Aloha_
Howdy,
been reading through since pg 50 but as of tonight, skipped past 92 and signed in because quite honestly I haven’t found a zero slop ball end to redo all the rods. If anyone can chime in and give any part number that would help the absolute horrid resemblance to an associated cars slop with new ball ends, it would be most appreciated.
I started with the ball end kit that fits “all 22”, and that was wretched, horrible slop, and thankfully the local norcal hobbies hobby shop swapped these out for
TLR 234107 HD set, but after installing the first rear link there’s a tenth of a mil on EACH end which is horribly unacceptable - NEW. Does anyone have a part number for a proper fit link set on a 5.0 that fits without ‘made in china slop’?
thank you for any assistance and desperate for an acceptable fitted car.
thanks,
-W-
What your searching for doesn't exist. there will always be slop in ball cups and suspension parts. you can spend a week shimming suspension arms and finding the tightest fitting ballcups and be super happy your car has zero to little play and then after a couple batteries run through the car it will be right back to slop in all suspension components. im lucky that pro drivers frequently race at the track I race at every week and I have checked out there cars all of them had some slop in the suspension. if it doesn't effect a world class driver doubt it is going to effect you. as long as you keep your car maintained and in decent shape I wouldn't worry about the little bit of slop. make sure you have the right tires and practice a lot. that is the key to winning.
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Old 02-20-2020, 04:17 PM
  #1623  
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Originally Posted by walter white
What your searching for doesn't exist. there will always be slop in ball cups and suspension parts. you can spend a week shimming suspension arms and finding the tightest fitting ballcups and be super happy your car has zero to little play and then after a couple batteries run through the car it will be right back to slop in all suspension components. im lucky that pro drivers frequently race at the track I race at every week and I have checked out there cars all of them had some slop in the suspension. if it doesn't effect a world class driver doubt it is going to effect you. as long as you keep your car maintained and in decent shape I wouldn't worry about the little bit of slop. make sure you have the right tires and practice a lot. that is the key to winning.
some cars drive better with the slightest bit of slop. it can help prevent bind when it gets loaded up
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Old 02-20-2020, 04:58 PM
  #1624  
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Originally Posted by Kraig
If the above suggestions don't help, have your tried running lighter oil? Just a thought.
down to 4K which burned up after 2 packs.
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Old 02-20-2020, 05:01 PM
  #1625  
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Originally Posted by Banshee8530
Pretty sure Frank said don't run two-gear with plastic gears. Two-gear with steel diff gears only. Run thinner oil and stick with 4 gears.
yeah. I’ll wait until APRIL 16th when parts come back into stock. Til then I will run my B6.2s.
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Old 02-20-2020, 07:29 PM
  #1626  
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Default Ball ends

Originally Posted by dcerven94
some cars drive better with the slightest bit of slop. it can help prevent bind when it gets loaded up
Appreciate the reply but,, no, unacceptable. That is a poorly engineered implementation of a part and it’s material tolerances if ANY control structure requires that it has to “slop” around to make function properly.
I have graphene on the desk so appropriate lubrication of a tight ball and cup structure shouldn’t difficult to achieve. I appreciate the ‘just learn to drive and pros in my area example’, from the previous user reply but, wondering if anyone has found (from any version kit or aftermarket) ball ends that are not sloppy - especially right out of the package.
Thanks.
-W-
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Old 02-20-2020, 07:32 PM
  #1627  
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Originally Posted by Aloha_
Appreciate the reply but,, no, unacceptable. That is a poorly engineered implementation of a part and it’s material tolerances if ANY control structure requires that it has to “slop” around to make function properly.
I have graphene on the desk so appropriate lubrication of a tight ball and cup structure shouldn’t difficult to achieve. I appreciate the ‘just learn to drive and pros in my area example’, from the previous user reply but, wondering if anyone has found (from any version kit or aftermarket) ball ends that are not sloppy - especially right out of the package.
Thanks.
-W-
you won’t get that from either TLR, AE, or Yokomo. Only car I’ve built with zero slop in the ballcups is Xray.
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Old 02-20-2020, 07:57 PM
  #1628  
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Originally Posted by Aloha_
Appreciate the reply but,, no, unacceptable. That is a poorly engineered implementation of a part and it’s material tolerances if ANY control structure requires that it has to “slop” around to make function properly.
I have graphene on the desk so appropriate lubrication of a tight ball and cup structure shouldn’t difficult to achieve. I appreciate the ‘just learn to drive and pros in my area example’, from the previous user reply but, wondering if anyone has found (from any version kit or aftermarket) ball ends that are not sloppy - especially right out of the package.
Thanks.
-W-
Is this your first RC kit? Serious question.
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Old 02-20-2020, 07:59 PM
  #1629  
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Originally Posted by Aloha_
Appreciate the reply but,, no, unacceptable. That is a poorly engineered implementation of a part and it’s material tolerances if ANY control structure requires that it has to “slop” around to make function properly.
I have graphene on the desk so appropriate lubrication of a tight ball and cup structure shouldn’t difficult to achieve. I appreciate the ‘just learn to drive and pros in my area example’, from the previous user reply but, wondering if anyone has found (from any version kit or aftermarket) ball ends that are not sloppy - especially right out of the package.
Thanks.
-W-

you could always get these bad boys from traxxas. absolute zero slop. seen someone put them on a 22t 4.0
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Old 02-21-2020, 11:53 AM
  #1630  
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Bah, so I was checking up on my buggy last night, since I plan on buttoning everything up, begin the diff break-in process, mount some tires, and hopefully paint my body, when I noticed a dreaded little pool of oil under the left rear tire. I guess I put that bottom washer the wrong way on that ONE shock (which lots of people have mentioned is usually the cause of said leak). Anyway, it’s never been run, so I plan on removing the eyelet, inscrewing the cap, and seeing if I can reassemble/re-bleed the shock...

I have some extra rings, though. Could the rings in there already be compromised, or will I be good just installing the plastic washer the correct way to take care of sealing it properly? As I mentioned, the buggy has done nothing but sit on the bench since I built it - kind of odd that they leak after a month though.
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Old 02-21-2020, 12:01 PM
  #1631  
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Originally Posted by TurnNBurn
Bah, so I was checking up on my buggy last night, since I plan on buttoning everything up, begin the diff break-in process, mount some tires, and hopefully paint my body, when I noticed a dreaded little pool of oil under the left rear tire. I guess I put that bottom washer the wrong way on that ONE shock (which lots of people have mentioned is usually the cause of said leak). Anyway, it’s never been run, so I plan on removing the eyelet, inscrewing the cap, and seeing if I can reassemble/re-bleed the shock...

I have some extra rings, though. Could the rings in there already be compromised, or will I be good just installing the plastic washer the correct way to take care of sealing it properly? As I mentioned, the buggy has done nothing but sit on the bench since I built it - kind of odd that they leak after a month though.
is replace them myself, especially if the car has sat with them in it like that for a while. May have deformed somewhat/
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Old 02-21-2020, 10:40 PM
  #1632  
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Originally Posted by Aloha_
Howdy,
been reading through since pg 50 but as of tonight, skipped past 92 and signed in because quite honestly I haven’t found a zero slop ball end to redo all the rods. If anyone can chime in and give any part number that would help the absolute horrid resemblance to an associated cars slop with new ball ends, it would be most appreciated.
I started with the ball end kit that fits “all 22”, and that was wretched, horrible slop, and thankfully the local norcal hobbies hobby shop swapped these out for
TLR 234107 HD set, but after installing the first rear link there’s a tenth of a mil on EACH end which is horribly unacceptable - NEW. Does anyone have a part number for a proper fit link set on a 5.0 that fits without ‘made in china slop’?
thank you for any assistance and desperate for an acceptable fitted car.
thanks,
-W-
Try TLR6017 ball cups. Punch your own holes in them with a leather punch. Make the hole as small as possible, just big enough to fit your wrench. Do not stick your 2mm wrench through the ball cup into the ball stud to hold the ball cup so you can thread the turnbuckle into it.
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Old 02-22-2020, 05:20 PM
  #1633  
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Has anyone had issues mounting the transponder vertically? trying to keep everything low as possible. Cant wait to test it out.
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Old 02-22-2020, 08:48 PM
  #1634  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
is replace them myself, especially if the car has sat with them in it like that for a while. May have deformed somewhat/
Well, after working on the shock, I came to discover that it was actually leaking from the bleed screw! Not sure what happened there, but I cleaned up the oil residue, opened the shock up, refilled, bled it out, then made sure to get the screw down pretty tight (I have aluminum caps). I guess I didn’t tighten that cap enough? Anyway, I’m glad that it wasn’t from the bottom.
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Old 02-23-2020, 01:26 AM
  #1635  
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Originally Posted by Aloha_
Appreciate the reply but,, no, unacceptable. That is a poorly engineered implementation of a part and it’s material tolerances if ANY control structure requires that it has to “slop” around to make function properly.
I have graphene on the desk so appropriate lubrication of a tight ball and cup structure shouldn’t difficult to achieve. I appreciate the ‘just learn to drive and pros in my area example’, from the previous user reply but, wondering if anyone has found (from any version kit or aftermarket) ball ends that are not sloppy - especially right out of the package.
Thanks.
-W-
Buy a bunch of ball ends and cups. Mic the ball ends for the largest ones and measure the cups for the smallest ones.
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