Eli

iTrader: (15)

Well I’ve given up on trying to fall asleep so here goes.

FWIW I don’t currently have an actual SR car up and running at the moment but there’s a few things you will most likely notice. With the aluminum steering you will most likely feel a more direct feel with the steering. This could be an advantage or disadvantage. More direct feeling could get some taking used to and may be less forgiving as is it should have less flex which will also generate more stress transferred to the servo as well which under a very hard impact could damage the servo more likely than having the plastic bell cranks and drag link. Advantages will be a more precise feel where the plastic will have a less twitchy feel but could cause a disconnected feeling from the steering on higher bite surfaces. Typically I would run aluminum steering on higher bite surfaces and plastic steering on loose surfaces.

what to expect in general by adding more weight to the front by adding the aluminum servo mount is generally less rear traction as it will remove weight from the rear end of the vehicle, so in low grip situations this is usually not ideal.

on my elite cars I run both the aluminum servo mount and steering but in either running on carpet or medium and higher grip situations.

hope that helps. And please, Frank chime in if you agree or not.

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

***

rc10t4orange

iTrader: (17)

Heck of a car for the price!!! Don't miss your chance to get a great deal!!! Before anyone asks I'm 99% sure there is not a new version coming out. I'm sure Frank can verify this. $229.99 https://www.horizonhobby.com/product...lay-p-tlr03016

Jay13

iTrader: (30)

Anyone use shock seals from a different company that work better? I may have screwed up and I soaked my shock seals overnight in shock oil and now they are too tight and binding. If I unscrew the seal cap at the bottom of the shock the are ok but when I tighten them down they are binding. The first one I put together I tried to get the shaft through with the bottom cap tight and I see rubber on the shaft threads so those seals are junk. These are the non elite 3.0mm shafts in a 5.0dc car. Any other options for seals that I can just green slime and install? Should I just order new seals and soak them less time or is there a better option. I have built many kits, never had this issue and never soaked seals before, this is the first time I have ever had a shock issue.

fifi

You can try to reduce the size of the plastic part in between the 2 seals.

jmitchell

iTrader: (3)

Do you have the white delrin spacer in correctly? There is a groove on one side that shows the correct orientation. When this is in backwards it can cause the binding you are seeing.

Hopper99

iTrader: (31)

Wow thank you for posting this!

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

definitely check this. Everyone does it at least once .

Jay13

iTrader: (30)

I'm pretty sure its correct, I did pay attention to that when I built them but my eyes are getting old. I can't really see the ridges but when I ran a exacto tip across them I could feel ridges and put them facing down (toward the screw on cap).

TurnNBurn

Elite owner here, so I can’t really make a comparison, but like zipperfoot says, the steering assembly just feels super precise and super smooth. I would consider this in my top three upgrades, the other two being the VHA rear end, and the C/D blocks.

Crap, I must have been lucky then. didn’t really notice this, but I haven’t had any issues with my shocks either. I also suffer from old eyes, LOL. Putting together the shocks and the CVA’s were a nightmare for me! OMG, those pins. By comparison, putting the diff together was a breeze, once I got a diff screw that was actually threaded. Yep, had a diff screw that turned out to be smooth... Of course, with the bad eyes, I struggled with the diff for like 90 minutes and just continued on. Didn’t notice the missing threads until the next day when I took the entire diff apart, lol. I’m just happy that Horizon hooked me up with a replacement, and that I didn’t lose any diff/thrust balls while cleaning them!

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

It will not be, sorry to say.

angelob

iTrader: (2)

+1 on old eyes here also. "Bottom of shock" is open to interpretation. I took it to mean "bottom of shock body" so I have the grooves facing upward. What is the purpose of the groove?

Thanks,
Angelo

TurnNBurn

On that note, do the sway bar kits include all sizes, or just the ones not included in the AC kit? Just wondering if those kits and the gear diff are all I need to help prep my Elite for carpet. I already have the wide front wing.

Jay13

iTrader: (30)

You might be right, I was looking at the picture in the manual and when you see the picture of that spacer on top where it says x4 it shows the grooves but right below it shows the smooth side facing the shock body on the assembly step. Now i'm slightly more confused. I ordered new seals so I'm going to try again when they get here. It kinda sucks buying a new kit and having to order parts already, but it could be my fault for either over soaking the seals or if I put the bottom spacer upside down. Can anyone clarify if the groves face the shock body or bottom cap?

jmitchell

iTrader: (3)

The groove is there to delineated one side from the other. Because when put in the wrong way the seals get over compressed and bind.