Chase1472

iTrader: (76)

22/23-75 on tighter track 80 foot straight.

-Yes those turnbuckles will work. Also most of us use AE ball cups and TI ball studs.

Cain

iTrader: (293)

the yz2t titanium turnbuckles from yokomo I liked here. worked well.

westkoast661

iTrader: (117)

Will27

Z2-503I - its the idler for the "LD" and Standup gearboxes, as well as the 4 gear laydown in the OG YZ-2.

allaboutwho02

iTrader: (45)

So looking at getting this truck. I run a t6.1 on carpet and love it. How does it compare? Do AE wheels work on this truck? Whats a good baseline high bite carpet setup?

Cain

iTrader: (293)

AE Wheels work.
Buddy of mine was running Associated before albeit a T5M and he is very fast, he liked how the yokomo's quality is. Car was very fast and durable in his hands.
Get the 87mm bones or whatever they are instead of the 89mm . 89mm stockers bind up against the diff we found when running the diffs risers.

For carpet, the shin setups on petitrc work very well.

you may like the LC tranny to try versus the LD I beleive it comes stock with.

indybobb

Hey guys, finally got to race my new YZ-2T on indoor high bite astro and I found it twitchy AF. Started with the Shin setup (setups are lacking majorly for this truck), but right away it was almost undrivable, WAY too responsive. Changed to longer links up front, lighter oil, shocks out battery back (plus other changes) and it was better but still a handful. Question, I have the longer steering arms on as the manual says, will the shorter arms help?, or make it worst?...

Thanks,, need help if I'm keeping it which right now is not certain.

Cain

iTrader: (293)

Are you still running the 89mm bones?

From what I recall we went down on the diff oil too.

mes

If you want to reduce responsiveness, you could go up in diff and shock oil, lower your diff and rear hubs, or move your battery and/or rear shocks to the rear. A smaller servo horn could be an option... What front tires are you using? Schumacher and Proline are quite twitchy, switching to a pair of Swaggers coud be all you need.

Cain

iTrader: (293)

reason I ask about the bones and the setup is I think that shin setup uses the diff risers, and the 89mm bones we saw would bottom out in the diff cups and cause odd handling issues. Buddy who is very fast about chucked the car across the room till we saw this issue, he then went on to really show what the car could do, finishing first a lot.

I also like to use the xray helper setup guides for tuning my vehicle.

Xray XB2 - Setup Helper

looking at max setup is very close to the shin one we used:

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo...gas2018112325/

Personally I would probably do the following, probably in this order:

- Get 87.5mm bones and install or in menatime, lower the tranny case to where you don't see any binding on uptravel (buddy I thnk went all the way to zero)
- confirmation on tires you are using, swagger up front helps a lot
- battery to rearward position
- more rear toe
- raise ball stud on front tower camber link
- shorten front link length as well if needed
- Go with the rear a-arm outer hole position in max setup or even 1 more out
- lighter diff fluid, say 12K or 10K

Will27

To add to Cain's list, if you are running aluminum rear hubs try going back to kit plastic.
When I tried the aluminum rear hubs my truck was undrivable, the rear swayed around to the point where it wouldn't go in a straight line. As soon as I went back to plastic it was fine.

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

why did the aluminum make it sway around? whats different besides ones plastic and ones aluminum?

Will27

I'm not sure. It was the Z2-415R00 hubs, no other changes. I think the ballstud mounting position is a little lower on these hubs than the plastic ones, so a slight roll center drop if its not compensated for. But I don't think this wouldn't cause that behavior. The balance was good in the corners, a little twitchy on turn in but it was unpredictable everywhere else. Went back to plastic and it was back to normal. This is on medium bite carpet.

I've changed my setup a lot now anyway. I've fitted DTM style rear hubs and dremeled the front steering knuckles and C hubs to get more axle height adjustment. I'm liking the truck a lot better now.

indybobb

Truck has the 87.5mm bones, Swagger front tires, battery is to the rear, front ball studs with 2mm. Why would lower diff oil calm it down? wouldn't it rotate even more? have 15k with 4 gears in right now. Will give the shortest links up front a try also ordered the 15.5mm servo horn. Rear hubs are the kit plastic. I haven't found an answer to the difference in handling between the long vs short steering arms that come with the kit. Have the long ones on, will the short ones tame the steering or make it even worst?...

mes

I'd say remove the 2 mm under the front ball studs for starters. Stick to your diff oil but make sure there is enough inside. In my book, shorter links will only make the truck more reactive. I tried the short aluminum bellcranks and found that the truck was almost undrivable, stick to the standard long version. Using a thicker front and/or thinner rear swaybar springs into mind; make sure your sway bars move freely. Increasing caster will reduce initial steering. You could try negative expo on your transmitter. If you haven't done so already, increase toe-in on the rear; start with the front up/center pill. As mentioned before, mounting the rear shocks in the rear and using heavier shock oil or softer springs all around could be an option. Using a heavier battery/battery weight and the Proline Enforcer (T6.1 kit body) instead of the JConcepts F2 should also help.
As it is, things are hard to judge from a distance. On my YZ-4, I had a weird servo that would cause similar issues.